Monday, January 14, 2013

Out with the Old... In with the New


Well 2012 is all done and on to new Tudor interests in 2013. Well I have a few project updates since Christmas. I received a commission for a Tudor gown from a lady in Sweden, really excited. In the planning stages right now and setting the dress form up with the proper measurements, making her custom pattern, etc. Bought some boning for the corset the other day, all the usual planning that a gown takes I am doing right now.

 As I find time between the commission, which is almost set up.  Currently weaving a set of lavender colored garters, and crocheting a lap blanket. Warm yarn based projects for winter, will return to my embroidery this spring. I think I will be making more garters with a multi-colored yarn when I get done with the lavender ones. This is my second attempt at something like a blanket, I made a really long trim in a seashell crochet pattern, it was supposed to be a blanket. Made about 6 inches wide by 9 foot trim and stopped working on it, now can't find the yarn I used for it. Typical of my luck.

I received most of my post Christmas books I ordered from Ebay on bobbin lace making. In the meantime I found instructions on making my own bolster pillow and holder. Also found also some guitar technique and beginner lute lessons by a person on Youtube. Who says the internet is a wasteland of information ;-)

 There are other types of lace making pillows but the roll shaped bolster pillow, I felt would work best for my needs of making trim like pieces of lace. I made the bolster lacemaking pillow from black velvet outer covering, muslin interlining, non-conbustable fused ploy stuffing, and glass beads in the center for weight. Its actually a very stiff heavy pillow. By the time the pillow was complete, the bobbins came in the mail, which I spent the next roleplaying session winding thread on them. The next step is to make some Prickings which contain your lace making pattern with holes for pins to hold your work. Prickings are made of either parchment/light leather pieces and are attached to your pillow. Will have to locate the mass of scrap leather I received from a friend, then I can make these wonderful patterns. Seen some starter lessons on the bobbin stitches, but am intimidated with getting started. Since I still have so much more to get done, between the housework, cleaning from Christmas, commission work, and current projects.. Though I think once I get a pattern worked out I will get the hang of it. Just one more thing I can do with string ;-)

Trying to make crafting progress,

Maureen

Hatamania Revisited

Well as well as working on wonderful lace projects lately, I have been revisiting one of my old projects, French Attifet style hats. Though I have heard a more appropriate description is heart-shaped coif. Which I like this better for discussing this wonderful style of hat for late period gowns.

 I have made some bun covers to go with hats for later period gowns. Though these are more like an heart shaped french Juliet cap with hair net attached.These really have alot of lace detailed features that I have been enjoying.  So far I have one that is made from floral embroidered fabric have to trim it yet, one in blue with french lace covering, one in green with battenburg lace covering, one made entirely from battenburg lace.

 I want to make on in peach with the same lace covering as the blue and one that is a floral brocade. Very excited to see how they wear with the gowns.For now here are pictures of the three I completed so far.

Focused,

Maureen

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Collars and Cuffs...Oh My!

These collars I did not make from scratch but I did modify them to work for my intentions. Recently I have been looking into Jacobean Stuart clothing to see how I can make my late Elizabethan gowns work for many purposes. Which I find most of it is how one accessorized their outfit to the time period one wants to depict. So hats, collars, fans, jewelry, and hairstyle plays a huge portion of the time period depicted.

The Painting above is from 1601, such lovely little ladies and surprisingly similar collars to the ones below, they are not partlets like we traditionally see from earlier Tudor paintings. I wanted to make some similar lace collars and cuffs for a flatter look with gowns. Considering fashions like a Medici Collar or a Holland rabato, a standing stiffened lace collar sometimes supported from the bottom were in my thoughts.
Bought these batternburg lace collars at an SCA event.

Well I decided to modify these to have sets: collar and cuffs to match. I wanted to show you all what I came up with modifying 6 collars to make 3 sets. All these will need to be cleaned in a very diluted oxy-clean solution to get some of the staining out. They are 100% cotton fabric so I must be careful. After washing they will be starched and set on a shirt for an event. I am not sure how I am going to work these collars with my existing gowns. Though I have a few ideas. The cotton reminds me of Holland cloth, which was made from linen traditionally.  The Netherlands has a lace collar on a wired rabato in late Elizabethan Era. I saw a circular one as flat starched ruff in a painting of Elizabeth I. The last is a standing Medici collar, which is tucked into the edge of a gown. Which all of these variations had matching cuffs for the sleeves of gowns. At least that is the options I am considering at this time. Two sets still need buttons for the sleeves and collars. Which the buttons will be from fresh water pearls and own handmade thread loops to hold them in place.
 
Not sure if I am going to embellish these with gold thread through the lace or not, I may try it on one and see if it is something I want to try with the others or not. Will have to be careful of any embellishment making them heavy and not very washable, iron or starch friendly on a regular basis. Though I look this as a challenge to take something that is later and fashioning to my needs for Elizabethan/ Jacobean needs.
 I consider this part of my "creative anachronisms" with in society. This fills in for lace until I learn to make my own treatments and and such to fill the trim and lace gap with my own handmade creations.

Some of my other Anachronisms, is wearing as simple flesh colored make up. Nothing over done just liquid and powder foundation to cover my flaws and maybe some lip balm. Not the chalk white face that is traditional at Elizabethan court, don't want to scare the little ones. I also carry a purse to events, which is covered in a large felt Tudor rose. This disguise on a plain velvet bag, allows my bag to be heraldic as well functional. No way that heraldic bags happened in period, though its a fun twist. Also much more practical that carrying pockets under my gown. Though I have a set to finish embroidering soon. I planning on making one from my own heraldry bag for events in the future, but have not made plans yet.

I also wear full length stockings for chaffing sake, my legs don't do well without pantyhose. So I have 2 sets of black wool, 2 sets cranberry cable knit cotton full length tights. Its for my own comfort and the do wick away moisture from sweating, which happens alot in my style garb. Full length tights are not period, I do have knee socks but don't wear them often. So really I do have a few on the list of Anachronisms, but I would rather skim a bit on the historical and be cheerful.  Than be period correct and miserable company for those around me and visitors coming through. Though I am not the only historical recreationist that keeps a few more modern comforts well hidden or disguised that help them get through the day.

Hey what can I say somethings got to give,

Maureen        



Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Six Wives of Henry VIII

Six Wives of Henry VIII

King Henry VIII's Wives in Sequential Order

King Henry VIII of England 1491-1547


Queen Catherine of Aragon 1485-1536Divorced,


Queen Anne Boleyn 1501-1536 Beheaded,


Queen Jane Seymour 1508-1537 Died.


Queen Anne of Cleves 1515-1557 Divorced,


Queen Catherine Howard 1525-1542 Beheaded,


Queen Catherine Parr 1512-1548 Survived.

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Queen Elizabeth's Prayer at Bristol August 15,1574

Stretch forth,
O Lord most mightie,
Thy right hand over me,
and defend me from mine enemys,
that they never prevayle against me.

Give me, O Lord,
the assistance of Thy Spiritt,
and comfort of Thy grace,
truly to know Thee, intirely to love Thee,
and assuredly to trust in Thee.

And that as I do acknowledge
to have received the government
of this Church and Kingdom at Thy hand,
and to hold the same of Thee,
so grant me grace, O Lord,
that in the end I may render up
and present the same again
unto Thee, a peaceable, quiett,
and well-ordered State and Kingdome,
as also a perfect reformed church,
to the furtherance of Thy glory.

And to my subjects, O Lord God, grant,
I beseech Thee, faithful and obedient hearts,
willingly to submit themselves to the obedience
of Thy word and commandments,
that we altogether being thankfull unto Thee
for Thy benefitts received, may laud and magnifie
Thy Holy Name world without end.

Grant this, O merciful Father, for Jesus Christ's sake,
our only Mediator and Advocate.

Amen

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor  Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Red Velvet Elizabethan

Red  Velvet Elizabethan

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Jane Seymour Gown

Jane Seymour Gown

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Catherine Parr Gown

Catherine Parr Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla
A Proper Gabled Hood

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon
Duke and Dutchess of Suffolk

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Embroidered Waistcoat over Elizabethan Gown

Embroidered Waistcoat over  Elizabethan Gown

Queen Mary I of England

Queen Mary I of England

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose