Monday, February 15, 2021

Miscellanea

 I was able to organize my Fashion Doll research into binders, to keep a physical copy besides the ones I have online. In my binders including the title page, bio page and judging sheets so I have a record of the results.  Added some dividers for the introduction, process, bibliography and judging sheets for past research.  

I also reworking my reference images binder to make it more professional on presentation. Achieving this by adding the named person in portrait, the year, the artist and current museum name and location to below each image. I have found some other tidbits of documentation to add to some entries. I am keeping the original binder prints as photocopy back up of these images in a separate folder. So nothing goes to waste. 

These can be used for A&S displays too. Checking my past pictures for these projects also to compile an images section of the binder. I have to find some tabs for each section of the binder but there is about 3-4 sections. Just wanting to keep the binder presentation consistent with the tabs. I had to put The Dastardly Doll Project in a larger binder so it didn’t hangout beyond the end. 

I am working though some miscellaneous projects. Completed my gift exchange item and sent it in the mail. I have a project to take in a sweatshirt next. Then time for more clothing for Dorothy.

Working though the stack, 

Marrin 

Tuesday, February 2, 2021

1/2 Scale Cohort of Sewing Schenanigans


Cited from Dr. Michael Pearce research paper
The Dolls of Mary Queen of Scots
 

The “grete babie” is where the idea of Dorothy was born. A doll of great size and details based on item one in the above description. Dorothy has become my 1/2 scale cohort of sewing shenanigans. I would like her to have the original outfit of her conception so to speak.
The Dastardly Doll Project was born and had to be made.

The first part of the description above is what I am focusing, there are two more dolls listed in lesser detail, although this source had several listing of royal inventories that contained fashion dolls. So a green velvet kirtle and white cloth of silver gown tied with gold aglets with a gold neck chain. I have the velvet and cloth of silver but will have to figure out the gold on these as they would be real gold.

The green cord is for the trim on the white cloth of silver gown. Although I plan on using other form of soutache with gold possibly for more trim with the green cord for the white cloth of silver gown. I have many trim considerations for this project. Procured some 1/4" green bias tape, seam binding, and two tassels because yes. Not all the trim will be used on the cloth of silver outer loose gown, rather I will still have to trim the green fitted kirtle underneath. 

The under-layers will be the same as previously made for the first ensemble. To refresh the memory, those garments consisted of a linen shift with lace neckline, red wool bodies/ stays, white and green striped bum roll, red wool-felt spanish-farthingale, green wool stockings, and shoes. The ruff and cuffs can be interchanged to help switch timeline styles.

For all future outfits since I plan on keeping in the same time frame 1550-1580, makes the under layers easy to maintain, other than a change of accessories, outfit or some layers depending on how far past 1580, I don't plan on adventuring far as the silhouette shapes change majorly in the next two decades 1580-1590. Class also makes influence on the following of high fashion, 1590 is where the wheel-farthingale becomes popular.

As I venture in to this project, please stay tuned right here for updates,

Marrin

Monday, January 11, 2021

Dastardly Doll Project- Follow Up


Well finalized all the research and ended up with 31 pages of awesome. Granted 12 pages is the research and bibliography, the rest is process photos. Although that is how the cookie crumbles, when you are on a physical project based research and not some analytical theoretical thesis of various topics. Although the analytical theoretical type of research might be 31 pages of text, I digress that detailed pictures are also awesome research. Especially if a picture is worth a 1,000 words, should be covered.

Printed the entirety and found a reasonable professional printer to replace the juggernaut that was Staples. Which did suit my needs, when I lived in a different physical location. Its all in a 1/2" binder and sleeves, very nice. I hope this will be a start with the information from my History of Dolls class, to make a History of Dolls end all be all research document. Its going to be a mild book for certain.

I have been able to re-purpose some failed sewing projects  to 1/2 scale supplies for Dorothy. Additionally some unused items like fresh water pearl jewelry in the correct scale for her use. Loads of pearls as you can expect. So far I have a lined blackwork coif with mild goldwork, blackwork chatelaine with glass beads and pearls, a lined wool pocket w/ blackwork glass beads and pearls, black linen apron w/ blackwork gladd beads, red silk belt pouches w/ pewter findings, suite of linen ruffs, suite of lace ruffs, and lastly in-progess blackwork embroidery for a 1/2 scale blackwork waiscoat. I will need material for a skirt or simple black kirtle but have some in mind in my stash. Sourcing the materials to make the green velvet kirtle and white cloth of silver loose gown. So on the hunt for 3 yard piece for each. Since this is for specifically Dorothy, I don't need to buy a large amount of yardage. 

 This whole project has been so much more fun for me than I had planned. I feel Dorothy will be a good tool for me to work on my sewing and produce detailed pieces. I have a silent teammate in my corner to inspire better technique. Then have the confidence to scale it up and fit myself better for garb projects in the future. The 1/2 scale has such better showing the true behavior of the fabrics and their relationships between the lining and fashion fabric. 1/2 scale is representative of the nature of the fibers of the fabric. The truth in the behavior that small scraps can't communicate as effectively when small. I can see how a 1/4 or less doll would be more for texture and possible decoration, although that is the limit of its use when small.

Great to find sources, even if 2ndry sources that show 1/2 and full scale were used.  Will find some primary sources eventually, more a matter of time.

Having fun in little,

Marrin

Sunday, December 13, 2020

Dastardly Doll Project- Hats



As the DD project is winding down, it’s time to finish the details. Specifically the hats. There are two hats that the inspiration portrait shows. A coif/ caul like hat on the back of the head in red fabric that has contrasting slashing with a bilament puffed edge. Add to there is a black tall hat with red and white plumes and matching hat band to the rest of the ensemble. 

For this I will be creating both as they are both shown

in the inspiration portrait. Took spare woven silk scraps from the gown and made a Juliet cap interlined in green wool. Made sure it would sit on the back of the head.  The green wool contrasted the red fabric, so the slashing showed the difference in color. I added center beads in the slashed designs and took some thin silk and made the puffed edge with more of the same beads for bilaments. Lined the pillbox hat in red silk taffeta as a finishing touch. 

Then I took my cotton black velvet fabric, pleated it evenly on the cut edge the entire 3/4 yard length. I made an interlining out of felt cloth to 17” circumference and 5” tall open on both ends. I pleated the upper edge slightly put the pleated velvet over the fully open end and whip stitching the pleated velvet down to the felt. I gathered the top end and pulled the raw edge to the inside of the hat. I made a bag lining out of black silk taffeta and sewed the lining inside the velvet at the crown opening.
The brim has velvet on both sides and stitched it to the crown with a red hatband made from scrap red woven silk from the kirtle. With some beads that match the pill box. And 2 red two white plumes and some feather twists for interest in the hat band.

In the inspiration portrait, Lady Willoughby holds a split colored flower of white/red dianthus, same family as carnation. So I will see what I can find to replicate that flower. Too bad we can’t see the other hand in case she was holding something else.  I have details to finish but for most of the Dastardly  Doll Project is complete. In much appreciation to the process and the patience of others while this work was in stages of completion. Always Grateful, Marrin 


 

 


 


Wednesday, December 9, 2020

Dastardly Doll Project 1/2 scale English Fitted Gown


I knew that the fit for the English Fitted Gown was going to be off when I assembled it. It was worse than I originally thought, when I put it on Dorothy the other day. Resulting in taking an inch off the length body of the gown and took 2 inches off the top of the skirt. Repleted the skirt and attached the pieces together for the gown. It’s much better smoother lines in the skirt and body.  Also look some of the scrap pieces from the alterations to make cuffs for the sleeves. 

Making progress despite the alterations. Adding a nice poly cotton blend lace that replicates the shape of Piccadilly lace. So going to see what that looks like on the cuff and collar of this gown, considering taking off the ribbon ties although I will see what I think after the lace. 

The ribbon ties are in the Tudor Tailor pattern for the Fitted English Gown as a means to close these styles of these gowns. Although I have to decide if I plan on keeping the ties or use other closure types. This is more a representation of Elizabeth Layton’s outfit from the portrait above. Simpler sleeves as the pattern shows but thinking the touch of lace might be nicer than the ties. Would be less red and a touch of white for design purposes would be easier to rest the eye. 


Would like to have this done by the end of this weekend. Praying for motivation and accuracy in sewing. 

Devil is in the details,

Marrin 

Monday, December 7, 2020

Dastardly Doll Project- Home stretch



I posted the clothing layers in earlier posts please see my Internet published works. So here is the Dastardly Doll Project so far. We have layers and kirtle. We have ruff and the English fitted gown is about 90% done. Have to make a velvet hat with  plumes and the bun over from corresponding fabric with stashed effects. So goals for this weekend so the details.  

 Interesting aside, my baby shoes fit this doll. Not just a little, actual prefect size. So that was easy to just take my hard ended leather baby shoes for a pattern but I do want to make the latchet style shoes life correctness. Although it does feel like my Mom contributed to this project in her own way. Life is full of serendipity. 

So with no further a do here is Dorothy with her under layers and silk kirtle in finery.   

More to come,

Marrin 

Sunday, December 6, 2020

Dastardly Doll Project- Wig

 Well a good weekend of working on the Dastardly Doll Project. I sealed the shins, forearms, hands and feet with water based sealer. Also sealed the head, I can make changes and details and reseal if needed.  After hand sewing the human hair wefts to the wig cap, it’s time to style this mop!

I used a modern curling iron to give the front its taller look. Bobby pinned the hair in the place and brushed glue on the hair. Sewed wool crewel yarn that matched the hair. Stitched the hairstyle in place and slowly removed the pins as it dried and made sure the hairstyle was secure. Then braided the back of the hair, sewed it in place. As a finishing touch used organize ribbon and sewed it into the hair to fill out areas and give a base decoration. Will see if I can beeswax the fly always, hopefully avoiding trimming the flyaways. 

I will be making a buncover of green and red wool and silk for the back of the head.  Then a tall hat for the top out of black velvet with red hat band. These these accessories will take sometime to complete.

Turns out the governing body of the Society for Creative Anachronism (SCA) has expanded their original missive regarding the complete canceling in- person events till May 31, 2021. So lots more time to make sure she is ready for the summer. 

Now that the body is sealed I can fully clothe the doll and get her standing. So keep tuned lots more progress on its way. 

Excited,

Marrin  



Friday, December 4, 2020

Dastardly Doll Project- Going Wiggy

 Making lots of progress this week on the Dastardly Doll Project. I was able to paint the face, hands and feet. Beginning with the base layers, along with top layers and fine details.  Detailed on the eyes fingernails and toenails, to give a little realism to Dorothy. Additionally was able to paint the forearms and shins. Lots of opportunity for detail but wanted to keep it where it was going to be seen. There is some details underneath, although finger nails and toe nails are seen to a point. So made sure to have a nice manny and pedi for Dorothy, kept it very neutral since back then they really didn't do much other than make sure they were filed nice and slightly long for signs on wealth. Soft pale hands also showed you didn't work in the fields.

Ah the Freckles! Decided a while back to show some imperfections on this doll.  Period portraiture is meant to show perfection or near to it in most cases, unless distinctly notable to the subject sitter of the portrait. Any abnormalities were brushed over in most cases to make an almost ethereal images, thus seen in most images of Elizabeth I. Lesser nobles not as apparent although, idealism is definitely seen in some of the portraits that survive from the period.  

Back to the process, currently working on the wig cap. One covers the head in cling wrap and then puts a natural fabric tightly over the scalp part of the skull. It’s covered in PVA (elmers/white craft) glue let dry. I am using several layers of glue on the fabric to let it harden before removal. It looks a little unsettling with bands holding fabric over a head like shape. Although this properly fitting wig cap is needed before hair is applied in any large quantity. This process will be filmed for YouTube. So hoping it turns out, keep an eye on my channel.

Part way though my Holiday shopping. I have some gifts figured out, just have the other half of my family to figure out yet.  So that is coming along, waiting for the mail for much of the gifts. 

I will post more if there is progress, in the meantime. Stay Safe, Stay Sane, and have Happy Holidays and Peaceful New Year.

Marrin

Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry