Monday, December 21, 2015

Weaving, Belts and Buttons

Well been working on small projects since my last event, not wanting to dive into something during the holidays. So been enjoying a much lighter project bag of late. Not the less, working on projects for the upcoming year including a class on intermediate black work embroidery.

 This week I made two belts out of trim to wear with some earlier
period garb. They look good not sure if I am changing the settings on some but am considering some options. Finished the green wool dress and working on the buttons for the sleeves half way done. Its nice to make some progress even if small.

Finished the beginner weaving project and it turned out well. Using it as a scarf for now, not sure what the future will hold with weaving but its fun. A for me to use up my stash of yarn that has existed since college in 2005. Have a few practice projects on the slate in my mind to see if its worth working with my single spun wool.

Looking forward to working on some toy research still working out some of the kinks. Also perfecting the Tudor fit and silhouette that I love so much. So here is to a happy holidays and prosperous 2016. Stay tuned folks its going to be another great year of Tudorosities.

Excited,

Mairin

Monday, December 7, 2015

More Teaching and learning

Completed my wool greenland dress that I bought pre-cut out at FFF. It was meant to fit a size 12 woman 5'4". I was able to complete the hem lower and it works for my 5'7" self. Though I need to take more in on the sides if I want it to fit very tailored. The traditional one has 12 gores but other styles have had less gores to create a fitted dress.currently working on wool buttons for the sleeves, I hope to get pictures soon wearing it.

Over the weekend stayed in Pittsburgh. Its is an interesting laid out city, lots of hills
and small communities all around make up a varied selection of neighborhoods. Its bigger than I thought plus not as much laid out on a grid system as I would have expected. First day visited the Zoo and Aquarium, which is a first I never did this as a child. Does make a difference seeing it in real life than in a book or photograph. In the evening lots of good food, Christmas market and skating rink, and nice indoor festivities for those wanting keeping warm.

Spent my Sunday teaching and learning. I went to Steltonwald's teaching event which is more informal. No garb required, which was nice to see what everyone looks like in mundanes. So many of us work on our garb and look its nice to see what the real world sees. I taught 3 people my coif making class, two out of the 3 completed their projects. I patterned and cut out a pair of viking turn shoes and now have a project to lock stitch together. Figured if I am doing viking at Pennsic, might as well have the proper shoes.

 So after a long drive down on Friday and back very tired on Sunday. Wishing for a day of recovery time with my cats and Vince. Though its time to get back to the work week pace.

Back to it,

Lady Mairin

Monday, November 16, 2015

Teaching

My AOA Circlet
Improved my 16th Century Coif  Make and Take class by making my instructions to more clear and include pictures with the instructions to make measuring and assembling easier. I have a few small additions to in the instructions but for the most part its much improved.

At Pennsic when I taught this twice, had fast sewers though the instructions were unclear. Half the class was able to complete this within the time limit of 1 hour 30 mins. Which even with taking extra time to explain,  most had the concept by the time the class was done. Made sure to add my contact info to ask any questions when they arose at home.

Wearing my AOA circlet
This time I was a 2 hours class at Aethelmearc Academy but no one finished. I had gone through explaining the instructions and with more than half the class left, had my 4 students cut out their patterns some wanted to take home to do by machine, which is fine. I went into a bit more history of coifs and related items like the embroidered jackets and how most of these were made by a professional embroiderer and these would have been costly luxury items in the gentry and up. I received some wonderful feed back on cheap measuring tapes and can use the ends of soap as fabric marking items. So was educational for me too, a true meeting and sharing of knowledge.

 Received a request for a class on basic period stitches and to make a small sampler.  In period it would be a spot sampler to work out stitches before a project was created. Its not the well organized versions that make up a picture as one thinks about when needlework sampler is mentioned. So I am thinking about this and want to direct this towards the person. So may need to come up with a plan and have Leo work through it as a beginning embroidered and have him be my guinea pig for this class.

It a Clewe
I wanted to thank the AEcademy for their efforts to enlighten and encourage teachers. As this takes time to prepare, money for materials and effort to get up in front of strangers and bare your passion for a historical topic. I love the little gifts and treats, its a small gesture of how one cares. This time they put clewes in the bag and gave hints on how they are used. I think these are neat and hope the little gift research based items will be included in future AEcademy teacher gifts.

Just on a general garb note fixed my cloak, clasp fell off. Mastering the tied up head-covering and veils used in earlier medieval periods. Thinking of making some viking for something different for Pennsic. FFF is coming up working on a scavenger hunt, and plan on taking classes. Looking forward to finishing up my Tudor gowns in progress.  Working on the bodice pattern now and perfecting the fittings to get it just right.

Lots to do,

Marrin

Friday, October 16, 2015

Autumn Milestones

Hitting all sorts of milestones. Very pleased to have had 260 posts since starting this blog back in 2009. Its a journey to see where I started and now how my style and technique has changed for the better. Steadily working away on my stitches being small and unnoticeable. I had posted pictures of the fabrics for the blue and green Tudor I am working on currently. Which is going well, I have the sleeve linings nearly completely attached to the silk outer fabric. Next is pleating both skirts attaching to waistbands and hooks and eyes.

 I am also working on a second Tudor gown simultaneously. Its a pink silk with tapestry sleeves that match here are the idea drawings and materials. Both are a good challenge and its nice not staring at the same colors all the time as I work on a project. Have to buy some white silk for linings on the foresleeves though 2 yard will easily do for both sets based of a different pattern.

Upcoming are projects after the gowns are complete which will be a few months are; Class info gathering on the topic of Accessories of a Tudor lady the research. Coif class preparation and edits for November, and more accurate doll research for a nifty upcoming project. Lots on the horizon to be get prepared and to research.

My fitting on the first Saturday went well, have to pick up more muslin to do  mock up with the new pattern first before working on the bodices of these gowns in progress. Had a great weekend at Coronation for Aethelmearc, very festive and full of symbolism and pageantry.

 Cats did make a mess when I got home with peeing in an empty laundry basket. My Jasper had a cold in his eye I had to keep checking. Though nothing disastrous, just some cats lacking some affection. House was still standing.

On a personal note finished my Halloween costume this past week. Made a slew of items out of one faux suede blazer, a few belts, some dowels, a toy bow, and pvc daggers from walmart. My supplies for my outfit cost me about $10.00 and 8 hours of time. Most supplies I had around the house and adapted things I wasn't using to work for this costume. Going to be an Elf Ranger from D&D for Halloween based on my own character Caitriana Soundinghorn and a mix of Tauriel from the Hobbit movie series. So basically a modified sylvan elf outfit/ranger outfit. Will post pictures when I have my look out all together. Nice to not have to rush to get something figured out.

  Have a party in the office at work, and a party that evening October 30th. Then a second party on the day of Halloween, my favorite time of year!!  Hoping that it all ends up to be comfortable for work and play. Had a few requests to do catwoman this year but wanted to do something different.

Autumn milestones and goals,

Mairin

Sunday, September 27, 2015

Patterning with Tailoring

Teaching at Pennsic was educational for me as well as the students I taught. Realized a great  disconnect between taking a 2 dimensional fabric and making it fit a 3 dimensional body is very difficult for most people. Getting a pattern constructed and properly fitted does take time and skill. Its a small feat I have been working out over the past 10 years.

 Finding that out first hand working with two close scadian friends THL Jacqueline de Molieres and Mistress Marguerite de Hon Fleur to fit a new bodice for me that I can use for my Tudor gowns. I am hoping to make a muslin of mock up of the fitted Elizabethan Jacket as well will allow me to get a proper fit on it once and for all. So I can make the pattern for it.

On the Tudor gown front I sewed the skirt panels, made waist bands and have sleeves linings sewed
and pinned to be sewed together.   I have yet to pleat and hem said skirts, attach skirts to waistbands, tailor a bodice and sew it together add trim. So still much more to complete on the silk Tudor gown front. Very pleased with how they are turning out so far and excited to see the finished product.

Lots more to come from me and many new projects on the horizon,

Marrin

Sunday, September 13, 2015

Stitch Book and Embroidery

Received the supplies for embroidery marguerites for a Laurel cloak. These are put together and organized for my friend THL Marguerite Hon Fleur by her laurel for her Laurel cloak. So now to work over the weekend to get them completed and sent off in the mail to her Laurel to assemble. Will consume my entire weekend most likely. Though I have been watching Downton Abbey, finished the first 3 seasons already.  Worked on these pieces while watching will be the theme for the weekend. Which they turned out very nice, just needs stems.

Also had my dentist appointment on Saturday, not looking forward to it. Though it will be a break
from stitching, though I have a feeling my teeth will ache after this visit. To which they do but its more the gums healing from not being taken care of for many years of no cleanings. Will have a filling to do in september but covered by insurance, nice to see it comes in handy.

 On a embroidery note had an idea to make a fabric stitch book for sometime. I wanted to do a period one based on Pre 16th century stitches. This is more for a teaching aide than a period based project. Baroness Elizabeth von Flossenburg  has a 100 page book to make a fabric stitch book. Thinking of splitting it into pre-16th century and post-16th century stitches since there are many listed. Looking forward to the challenge and seeing how I can make it very useful.

I will not be able to release the photos and stitches used till the cloak is complete and presented. Though want to show some progress as they were made. Here is the finished embroidery with stems will yet to be seen how it will look with all the other daises completed.

Working two silk Tudor gowns, one in light blue and other in a mauve pink color. The mauve pink selection will have patterned hanging sleeves will match it up with some foresleeves in a gold color fabric I have on hand. The light blue will be lined with velvet and will make a matching forepart  and sleeves I have on hand already. So looking at making these to go with the hats and accessories I have on hand. These will bee good spring like gowns and could be layered with partlets to be warm or cold weather.

Working on the studies of a Tudor noble woman now back to sewing,
,
Lady Marin

Saturday, August 22, 2015

Pennsic Treasure

Here are a few items I picked up at Pennsic.  Few I found components and made like the necklaces, most other are purchases for future projects.  A medieval shopping market like no where else on earth. I was looking for thick buckram, thick millinery wire, and more linen but they were sold out before I was paid at the end of the week. Though I know sources to get some outside of Pennsic. Especially since I spent so much time not going to war. Which will change, dependent on life circumstances. Hoping that life will straiten and settle itself out soon, a girl can dream ;-)
Garnet with silver freshwater pearl necklace 

Silver , gold, and white freshwater pearl necklaces

Peacock Hand Puppet

Pearl with gold bead necklace and  A and S Token pendant

Set of sleeves made my Lady Domencia

Mauve pink and pale blue silk taffeta fabric

Left to right: Black velvet 3yds,
Tabby weave copper wool 2 yds,
 Slate Grey wool 2 yds

Brass with crystal hair comb, 
Brass hair stick with fairy and crystal drop,
 and Brass barrette with crystal
 
 
 
Three books about the period.
Two on embroidery
One on Mary Queen of Scots
 

I also bought 2 cotton veils, a market sack in an coral color, purple fabric and chancellor minor patches to make belt favors. Received old wedding dresses to revamp into something wearable, gosh who knows!! Though I didn't take pictures since those would be less distinguishable . 

All sorts of fabric and now to actually do some things with it. Here's to some time to create something beautiful. There are plans, gorgeous plans indeed ;-) Spent my morning embroidering and going to the dentist. Now that my gums and teeth ache going back to embroidery and more season 3 of Downton Abbey. 

Painfully,

Lady Mairin
 
 
 

Friday, August 14, 2015

Knowledge in Practice

Old Gable No Lining
I had an opportunity to rework an older gabled hood from my collection. Using knowledge I learned in a class my Lady Margaret Wolseley from Kingdom of Atlantia.  This will not make it as near accurate as her depiction but be more wearable and suited to give the look more properly. I will make new but for now these will make do.

On my old gable I took the veil off and adding a linen lining as it had been needing one for a long time. Was able to add a looser veil to add an earlier look. Considering for Pennsic and warmer weather an earlier transitional look of 1500 might give me the hat I like with more comfortable clothes. Then for winter the 1530's -1540's court.

Revamped Gable linen in linen, different lappet, and longer veil
Still plan on dabbling in Elizabethan as I find it a different challenge all together in 1550-1600. I have to decide if the new silk fabric is to made into Elizabethan gowns or Tudor gowns. Decisions, decisions?

This is going to be a different way I wear this style. For this is earlier than the 1530's I like to wear. Came 3 colors black white and red. White worn many for holy orders, the other two in combinations worn by upper middle and noble classes. The lappets being patterned with some form of brocade or embroidery pattern.

Do wonder if this was a court style only or if the lower classes wore a version that was out of wool or cheaper materials?

Considering all the Possibilities,

Lady Mairin

Monday, August 10, 2015

Pennsic in a Nut Shell

My Pennsic was a very busy and productive 10 day vacation. Posted my Pennsic 44 gallery previously so more detail to see in the photos. Nothing like spending time with family and friends that I do not get to spend enough time with on a regular basis. It was relaxing despite the hot dry days and cold nights, with a 8 am cannon alarm one can't go wrong.  Was able to pick up a free standing embroidery frame, two cotton veils, a book on Mary Queen of Scots, a book on German needlepoint, a book on the Hardwick Hall Textiles, three brass and crystal hair combs/clips, a garnet and pearl pendant made into a pearl necklace, silk More fabric in mauve- 9 yards, black cotton velveteen- 3 yards, tapestry in mauve and white pattern- 3 yards, a set of tie sleeves for late period gown, chancellor of youth patches and purple fabric for belt favors.

This is a view of my pavilion I spent time working on some projects, like a few pearl strand necklaces. Made it comfy to live in since I was to spend loads of time working on items and relaxing from the heat. I wore some earlier 14th century clothing later in the day after my middle class Tudor to keep cool. I also received a belated birthday gift from my Laurel, 9 yards light blue silk more fabric. Have another piece of teal tapestry as a gift from her, I am planning on matching and seeing what I can make with it. Also received a gown that has good material to remake into something late period, thinking a French style possibility. I tried it on the skirt and sleeves are just the right length, need to reshape the bodice, remove petticoats, and match it with another lining fabric.


 Taught my classes on the 16th century coif, both well attended. Had to turn some folks away with a limit of 8 to a class. With such a great response I plan on teaching this at AEcademy and Fabric Fiber and Fighting both in November. I was also able to display my works and plans for future projects at the Knowne World A and S display. Which I met many wonderful people with great ideas and suggestions to further my efforts, Thank You!!! Took many wonderful classes but the most standout one was for the English Gabled Hood, very informative and educational. Need to figure out to make more of this hat for proper court garb. Going to see about getting heavier millinery wire and thick buckram for these future hats and make them as period as possible. Here is to more geometric millinery goodness!!

Well back to Mundane living for now,

Lady Marrin


Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Six Wives of Henry VIII

Six Wives of Henry VIII

King Henry VIII's Wives in Sequential Order

King Henry VIII of England 1491-1547


Queen Catherine of Aragon 1485-1536Divorced,


Queen Anne Boleyn 1501-1536 Beheaded,


Queen Jane Seymour 1508-1537 Died.


Queen Anne of Cleves 1515-1557 Divorced,


Queen Catherine Howard 1525-1542 Beheaded,


Queen Catherine Parr 1512-1548 Survived.

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Queen Elizabeth's Prayer at Bristol August 15,1574

Stretch forth,
O Lord most mightie,
Thy right hand over me,
and defend me from mine enemys,
that they never prevayle against me.

Give me, O Lord,
the assistance of Thy Spiritt,
and comfort of Thy grace,
truly to know Thee, intirely to love Thee,
and assuredly to trust in Thee.

And that as I do acknowledge
to have received the government
of this Church and Kingdom at Thy hand,
and to hold the same of Thee,
so grant me grace, O Lord,
that in the end I may render up
and present the same again
unto Thee, a peaceable, quiett,
and well-ordered State and Kingdome,
as also a perfect reformed church,
to the furtherance of Thy glory.

And to my subjects, O Lord God, grant,
I beseech Thee, faithful and obedient hearts,
willingly to submit themselves to the obedience
of Thy word and commandments,
that we altogether being thankfull unto Thee
for Thy benefitts received, may laud and magnifie
Thy Holy Name world without end.

Grant this, O merciful Father, for Jesus Christ's sake,
our only Mediator and Advocate.

Amen

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor  Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Red Velvet Elizabethan

Red  Velvet Elizabethan

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Jane Seymour Gown

Jane Seymour Gown

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Catherine Parr Gown

Catherine Parr Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla
A Proper Gabled Hood

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon
Duke and Dutchess of Suffolk

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Embroidered Waistcoat over Elizabethan Gown

Embroidered Waistcoat over  Elizabethan Gown

Queen Mary I of England

Queen Mary I of England

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose