Sunday, February 25, 2024

New Gowns





This is one of the new gowns that I created from the same patterns as the copper leafed gown. This time the sleeves are made from blue stamped velvet. I happened to sew these into the gown, as the armscye matched perfectly.

Sleeves could either be tie on, which was the most common method. They could be hooked on to the bodice, which is what the method I prefer to use. They could be sewed in which didn’t happen all that often, although is not out of the realm possibility. When they are sewn in, they normally are only tacked in so they could be changed out with just snipping threads.

 With most Tudor clothing, the ability to mix, a match was important. So being able to change out sleeves or wear a different partlet, could make a gown look completely different. In the terms of Henrician court clothing changing out the fore sleeves, and the under kirtle could make you look like that you have more clothing too. Yet again, separate pieces gives the appearance the owner look like they had more clothing than what they actually did.

 Spirit of this, I actually was able to purchase a new Henrician Tudor Court gown from UK reenactor Izabel of Prior Attire. This is a well worn piece that has been to many historical royal places including Hampton court.  I am super pleased with this set, it’s made exactly how I want to make my gowns going forward. Since now owning it, as I am able to use it for patterning. It’s made with various kinds of silk, cotton brocade, upholstery velvet, and much stiffening of the bodies. 

So you may see me wearing this set with jewelry in a SCA event. Excited to wear it and  I also have a purchased dark red Henrician Tudor gown to mix and match this with so should be interesting. 

Here is to 1530-1540 Tudor Goodness,

Mairin 

Saturday, January 27, 2024

Kingdom 12th Night

Well it was a busy AEthelmearc Kingdom 12th Night. I assisted with Magnifica Fede Di Fiore’s elevation to the order of the Laurel. Was wonderful to see her in all her magnificence, looked radiant on this big day. It definitely has all the feels of almost getting married to the SCA, As you are making vows and promises. Was great to be able to fill in gaps in the vigil schedule of the other folks running the elevation. I was even able to get some sewing done on my red velvet gown.

I had debuted a new gown and tested it see how gown wore for the day over my stays. I do have some tweaks to get the fit in the bodice a bit better. Although not bad for a first run. Am working on other gowns as well from this same pattern.  There were several Sca merchants at this event, and was able to pick up Silk Saris. Which will help me trim, several silk kirtles and make stomachers and coordinating sleeves for each. Very excited to see how those turn out. In full force garb making mode.

Inspiration for velvet gown

 For myself, I was installed as the Deputy Minister of Arts and Sciences. My boss being THL Rue, took our oath and received our baldrics of office. I have a lot more paperwork that I need to work on for this position. Along with familiarizing myself with other materials.

In the meantime, I have secured a new costuming book. The Cut of Women’s Clothes, 1600-1930 by Nora Waugh. This is a book that I’ve been meaning to get for quite some time. I also have a couple other ones that I’ve gotten off my Amazon book list. And to be honest, it’s about all that I use Amazon for is getting costuming books and some minor sewing supplies. 

My bedroom bookshelf is a combination of Pattern books for Renaissance clothing, books about Dolls, books about Automatons, books about the History of Fabric, and books on important royals during the Renaissance period. I have also been working on a more period inspired jewelry, been looking at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Replica jewelry. So placed several orders with Armor and Castings for replica pieces that they make. And are keeping those in dedicated jewelry boxes. The more inexpensive costume jewelry has been relegated to a different box. Those costume pieces have been very useful with doll, so that is what will happen with the remainder of the costume jewelry that I have on hand.

Better get back to it,

Mairin

Monday, December 25, 2023

Happy Holidays 2023

Hi Tudorosities Reader,

May you and yours have the happiest of Holiday Seasons and a Happy New Year! May all the


blessings be abundant in 2024!

Sunday, December 17, 2023

Claudia-Fashion Doll


This is Claudia, she is my 42” porcelain fashion doll. She has been in her chemise layer for quite some time. Turns out I had the perfect amount of ruffs for her made out of lace. Currently working on showing the lace around the bottom of the hem. 

I went through my collection of gowns and found one that might fit Claudia. So I may need to pad out some areas but really excited that saves me a lot of time. 

 So lots of tucks some stuffing to fill out the sleeves and the waistline besides a bum roll. I do have to sew up the front of the gown to prevent gaping. Although looks amazing. The sleeves stuffed helps show the puffs off and gives more depth. Had to be careful stuffing the body of the gown. Otherwise, her head looked too small. So I was trying more for an adolescent look, but since in the timeframe, they dressed children like adults. So following the same line of rules that they would’ve done with sumptuary at the time.


So more to come just need to figure out the kirtle layer. Although it may not be necessary in this case, since all of the shaping is being done by padding, and the gown itself is not a far off fit. The sleeves on this gown is just amazing and this was a great way of showing off the beating plus the amazing sleeves. I do think a skirt at minimum is going to be needed to help fluff out the bottom but other than that I don’t think I will need the kirtle layer like I originally thought. 

Claudia looks like a Renaissance duchess and I am super thrilled with how this came out. Just proves my theory once again, that there’s no reason to not hold onto some of your items that may not fit, you may find ways or uses like this that could be applied. Now to find a place for her to show off her finery that will not cause folks to jump. 

We have human size sculptures of comic book and DND characters. Anything that approaches human size causes folks to jump, thinking that there is someone watching them. So will see

Wanna be mistress of poppets, 

Maureen 

Sunday, December 3, 2023

New Gowns for Me

 

Picture by Elska A Fjarfelli 
I have been putting off making more Tudor clothing for myself.  For the past few years, I have been dealing with a lot of family loss and some estate-related responsibilities. So my motivation for making full size clothing has been minimal. I have been working on the dolls for soothing sewing practice, and also as some healing art therapy besides working on my book. Now that estate things are winding up, I am in a better headspace to tackle projects for me. 

This gown I made a few years ago but never worn, it fits just so.  This gown features full coverage over my linen/hemp stays. It can be worn with coordinating sleeves,  I kept the bodice separate and found that, when it's snug fitted nothing moves from the separate layers.  I wore my black-worked pocket, black-worked chatelaine, and coif with partlet made a nice contrast against the gold fabric. Received many compliments and am pleased with how it all coordinated into a cohesive outfit. Besides being comfortably snug which is how these garments worked, I was good all day wearing. Even doing some mild lifting as needed. I need to hem the skirt higher but that is an easy fix.

Picture by Elena De La Palma
So testing out the bodice pattern was perfect, now I can see about using that pattern for my current gown project. I have 5 yards of a flocked geometric patterned linen in chocolate brown. This is currently in progress, I made the skirt its time to make the bodice. I will just make a few adjustments in the shoulder area. I can have a new gown made for Kingdom 12th Night. I do have a blue gown ready for wearing as a backup that fits snugly as well. That gown was made by Mistress Phillipia as a silent auction item, which I won, and have added silk charmeuse to the slashes. Also made a high-necked chemise to go with the gown to give it some nice contrast in the neckline. 

I was able to get some tips from a dear friend on fit on the next gown to make a smoother bodice.  The pictures of the blue gown are over my gold one. So it's a snug fit but will be better with one less layer underneath. I added white silk to the puffs on the sleeves and bodice for more contrast. The silk was a gift from my oldest sister Melissa when she was living in Saudia Arabia. The last detail for the blue gown is making the eyelets a little easier to see and just a bit bigger.

For the holidays, I splurged and bought a purple and gold brocade 100% silk from Sartor Fabrics. My order arrived the other day from the Czech Republic. It's the bomb! and am thinking of a gown for this as well but trying to figure out which style of gown I want for this fabric. It's wonderfully heavy and full-bodied, just as period silk fabrics would have been.  So working on some ideas for this in my head.

As far as silk fabrics for Renaissance clothing, I recommend weaves of Taffeta, Brocade, and fine Dupioni (fewer slubs the better)

Dancing Sugar Plums in gowns,

Mairin

Wednesday, November 15, 2023

More Friends

After
Well here are more friends that are dressed to impress. I added Charlotte to the group. I am still working on name for the other two dolls. I do have to make outer layers gowns for these dolls. So working on those layers and accessorizing the dolls. With the typical jewelry that would be appropriate. I was able to find more costume jewelry that will help these dolls.

Before
The best part is, I’ve been able to re-purposed some head coverings that I don’t use myself yet again. I was able to take a blackwork coif that was made far too small. I had to do was tuck in the hair for the doll that is on the left side of the picture. And just with the proper time techniques was able to really create the heart shape hairstyle that was popular without having to do really much with the wig other than just tuck in the hair.  The pearled bun cover that is on the doll on the right in the purple dress, definitely fit her head perfectly. And yet again, I didn’t have to mess with the wig. I didn’t have to comb anything out. All I did was just tuck the hair into the head covering and then arrange it in a heart shape and it really just took on what it needed to for the popular renaissance hairstyle. 

Before their doll dresses 
As you can see Charlotte, hair is going to stay in the same hairstyle. I really like the top fun and with the floral wreath it just is complementary to her face shape, and it actually makes her look taller. Compared to the other dolls I find that I have almost half have hats are head coverings, and the other half have wreaths with loose hair. Which I think is a nice combination of variety.

What I find the most interesting is how easy it is to use curly textured hair to be able to create the hairstyle in a much easier fashion, as it would be with someone with a straight hair texture. For example, Lucretia had mostly straight hair other than a little bit of curl at the end and I had to really work to get her hair to take on some life and hold the shape of the front rolls that the heart shape, hairstylist known for from portraiture.

As I had mentioned, prior I have to work on some outer layers. So there is more to come with these dolls and the finishing touches to their outfits. The jewelry is sorted for the most part. I do have a couple other pomanders that I’ve found, and will have to see about giving one to one of the other dolls. 

That’s all that I have for now. Keep posted here for any updates. 

Maureen 

Friday, November 3, 2023

Finished New Friend

This is Charlotte. She is dressed in 1550s Florence Italian. She has a linen camisa with lace collar and cuffs. The under dress is made of a faux silk that has embroidered flowers and leaves, the flowers have a velvet texture. 

Down the front of the under dressed, and on the sleeves, there is a soutache decorated velvet ribbon that matches. The overgrown is an orchid purple with gold shot silk which also has a few of the velvet flowers from the fabric underneath to tie in the design. 

For jewelry she has a pearl necklace with a Bee, with matching earrings. There is a collar that has purple cabochons, and a chain girl about finishing off in a pearl drop with a crown brooch centered at the waist. And Charlotte here there’s a written Rose wreath around a loosely curled bun.

Charlotte really came together quite easily, and I thought I was going to have a difficult time with her outfit. I do have a nice stamps silk velvet in purple that I’m considering using for her and possibly one other doll. I just have to decide if I wanna make a layer the girls over all of this finery.


She is next to the other dolls that I have created, and I am getting quite the little courtly courtiers in my room. It’s been past time to find a curio cabinet but it’s going to be a challenge finding one big enough for all of these.

Tuesday, October 31, 2023

More Doll Goodness

 

Well, this weekend was quite productive. I was able to assemble the clothing for these two dolls. What I found to be the most challenging was making the paned slashed pants. I decided to add stuffing in the puffs and they really do look like pumpkin pants now. The next step is to work on a belt the one you see here is a bit big. As far as width is concerned, and I do want to be able to attach a sword to this belt. Luckily, this is a faux leather and I can cut it with a pair of scissors, but it still has that nice hand feel like it is a leather and not some sort of shiny vinyl. Currently I’m waiting for the sword and scabbard to arrive in the mail. It’s actually a 10 inch letter opener that looks like a Spanish sword.

For our little lady friend, went through my stash of costume jewelry and had this nice large chain from when I wore a German court gown. Also happen to have a Pomander that doesn’t have any sort of opening hinge to it that is full of potpourri. So I added those together and was able to have this nice belt with pomander. She also happens to be wearing a pearl necklace with a seashell pendant and then I also have an additional necklace with a small costume jewelry brooch with a faux ruby. This I’ll coordinate with the young gentleman who happens to have a larger faux ruby cabochon broach along with his chain. The outfits look so good I am kind of debating if I wanna create an over doublet for our young gentleman. I would definitely be that orange/pink changeable faux silk fabric. Also, looking at some additional hat decoration for the young gentleman, I want to avoid feathers because the cats would eat them.

There has been progress also with the porcelain dolls that have been sitting around for quite some time. The challenging part is to let inspiration, strike, and then create while the motivation moves me. As you can see, Jace wants to lay on the fabrics and take a nap. I’ll sort it out which fabrics and going to use on which doll. And it’s going to be one of those situations where I will be crafting a wonderful dress for each and I’m excited to see how they turn out. Really love the face sculpts on these they’re just adorable. It has dolls are completed. Of course you will have a post for each on here. So stay tuned for more doll goodness.

Maureen


Tuesday, October 24, 2023

Doll Progress

 So this is the update for the newest dolls kits that were received. While working on the pattern library and recent acquisition of doll making supplies. I was able to get motivated and assemble the dolls that have been around for the past month or so.

I was able to finally use the doll patterns that came with the one kit effectively for the two 20 inch dolls. I use the same pattern for the 30 inch one but since that was the first one, I had a lot of adjusting to do as well as having to, create a lot more, seems to put in a doll pose-able skeleton later on. 

Josephine 1550 Italian
What a difference actually having those doll skeletons really allow them to stand up on their own they’re able to be posed. It really gives a sturdy base that they are not sleeping over just with stuffing. Glad that I have a good selection of those going forward.

I am working on names at the moment for these lovely ladies. Most of the time, I don’t tend to come up with the name, until after I’ve already made the clothing.  Sometimes it comes to me very quickly. I have one name ideas for the smallest of the dolls at this point, thinking Josephine, after the black entertainer Josephine Baker in the 1920’s. Will see about the other three. 

There is a coupon for Joann this week, so I took the opportunity to get the thick sack cloth 100% linen for 25% off because it was on sale. And then they also had a 20% off your total purchase coupon which also applies to sales items so that really knocked the price down nearly by half. So that will allow me to make doll bodies do inner lining for renaissance gown bodices. It won’t go to waste. 

 Also acquired some porcelain doll heads to add to the composition doll bodies there might be one or two out of the six that I had ordered, that will work for at least one to two of the bodies. There is one that may work for some of the smaller bodies, although I’m gonna do more research and see what I can figure out. Many of the other bodies are much larger and will require a larger doll head to fit and look proportional.

Finished the linen layers on these composite dolls. While planning and dressing the other dolls.

 Lots to do!

Maureen 

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry