Sunday, August 6, 2017

While you were Pennsic-ing...

Well it's a week most of my friends are away at Pennsic. Great news traveling back of battles, parties, purchases, and well deserved awards. Hoping one and all have a safe and happy Pennsic war.

 In the meantime, I am making progress on my 5 silk kirtles. Currently have two bodices assembled and now working on the next. Hoping to be attaching skirts next week for all 5. The fit seems to be good for doing the pattern cutting when tired late at night. I don't recommended cutting patterns late at night or if one is tired.

On the weaving front, no new progress on the loom. Though still looks awesome. I have a lace development I will be sharing later, so stay tuned.

 Though as folks are making awesome once in a lifetime purchases, I am working on my own. The following are pictures of a walking wheel or aka great wheel. This is one in working order located about an hour west from me. I will have the beauty in hand on Friday. Looking forward to seeing if it will fit in my mustang. Though it disassembles and I plan on unloading my trunk completely. I think it will work according the measurements  provided. The wheel is for a wonderful deal cash on hand $125. Which is much less than 200 year old my castle double draft wheel. Super stoked and ready to pick her up.

So here is to responding when opportunity knocks,

Lady Marrin O'Kealy






Tuesday, July 25, 2017

Needlepoint Awesomeness

Well I have the 2nd of 4 panels completed and backed with teal colored linen. I know I posted on the first one many months ago. Though here is the refresher of what I am doing and why.

 This is a collection of needlepoint kits made by Dimensions 1978-1979-1980-1981.
These kits are made with 100% wool threads in all the colors needed to complete the project, plus the canvas and instructions. The design is firmly based on the unicorn tapestries, a 6 panel series based on the senses which features young women in medieval court dress with animals mainly a unicorn and a lion theme, these original works  reside in Cluny, France.

The first one I completed was "sense of hearing" and the next is the "sense of touch"
So here are the two finished pieces side by side.

Using these as a means to show needlepoint to a modern easy digestible form for the public. As a way then to reference the work of Mary Queen of Scots on other period similar works of needlework and techniques.

 Enjoy, Marrin O'Kealy


Sunday, July 23, 2017

The Power of Silk

An update is needed on my work that has been made since AEcademy. So here it goes: finally purchased the silk dupioni from Joann's I have been scouting it out for the last year.  Wanted to be able to source proper period material for English kirtles. This is one of the few times in my Sca career, it was within budget and jumped at the chance to have period materialed kirtles. Planned on 4 kirtles in different colors but I found one more color so making 5 at once.

I do this kind of production based work to make sure I have enough for many events. Planning on having these for a while and to keep my size as close as I can currently. Which my measurements seem a good consistency for the past year to be able to redo my garb. Will be selling off many larger sized pieces of garb to loving homes....so stay tuned if you would be interested in adopting a gown. As soon as the new kirtles are finished will show pictures, it takes a while when handsewing it all.

Here is a photo for color and texture in the meantime, these are finished pleated skirts with waistbands to the left of this paragraph. Had the silk surveyed by a fellow Scadian, who makes silk clothes mundanely. We are both thrilled with the consistency and rare to very mild slubbing in the material. So its good quality silk for a great price for the weave that was advertised. The colors to the left present as follows; spring green (top), mauve shot with black (2nd from top), Magenta shot with red (3rd from top), royal blue (4th from top) burgundy red shot with black (bottom)

Was worried about the spring green and magenta would be too bright. Though they just fall within the ranges of color, in the Tudor Tailor for natural stuffs for the color chart. So the Tudors could get some good color saturation even with hand dying. Its so nice to have great sources to help make informed choices for planning stages.


 So using the fitted pattern to make proper kirtles for around 1550 English, time for the style I'm depicting.  Drafted it from the Tudor Tailor, the pattern for my first red silk taffeta kirtle from earlier posts. Using this same pattern for these next 5 kirtles. Coordinating sleeves are planned for a middle but more gentry class woman. Months ago in January, worked on these sleeves imaged to the left. They are all complete with  hooks at the top for attachment to a kirtle or gown.

Running the math, very pleased that I have 45 different configurations with these sleeves to show some wardrobe power of variety. No getting bored with silk here ;-)

Speaking of  Power, came up with a powerhouse idea that just struck me the other day. A reasonable way of displaying my awards in a more inconspicuous way than a belt favor or necklace/ medallion...... An apron! I plan on making a flat front English apron and will make reasonably sized but not larger than half dollar patches. Since I tend to wear an apron often, this is also a reasonable persona driven choice. Will eventually embroider patches for the corners to show the awards currently obtained and leaves some choices for future ones.

Its not meant to be ostentatious but rather a solution to a period and Scadian problem. For myself, I forget my medallions at home and don't want to look like Mr. T with necklaces galore. Besides this apron, I also have had brooches made as another variant. So depending on how ones wears their garb and accessorizes, there are ways of making this unique and fun. Wanted to put this out as food for thought.

Doll update: still working on lace to complete the next doll in the collection. Though layering projects helps me focus, the change of what I look at regularly keeps me driven to complete projects. Variety being the spice of life. Will post more on the lace when it looks more like a pattern.

Keep on stitching,

Marrin O'Kealy

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Æcademy

Waiting for photos to be posted online. Thought it seems that may take a while. So to update on all sorts of projects and event.

My class, "Hello Poppet" went very well. Had 6 students taking the course. It goes into detail about history of dolls ones that exist and the depictions in paintings of fashion dolls. Handout is under documentation category on this blog. Lots of wonderful feedback and encouragment to research further.

Which leads to my next topic. I found more info of instances of medieval and renaissance Europe that fashion dolls were requested to learn of fashion in distant lands by notable nobles in their respective times. This source I found exact quotes in two separate publications. Certain its not a fluke.

So working on stitching of small projects focusing on careful small unstressed stitches and seams. Hoping to have more proper clothing on the agenda. Sell off my old wardrobe eventually. So lots to do on the household before moving requirements.

Eventually I want photos but this will work for now.

Regards,

Marrin O'Kealy

Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Arachne's gift


Been working on my weaving more lately. Am officially at the halfway mark. I used 4 standard size old bath towels to separate my warp from tangles. Removed two as completed the new woven wool fabric. So officially have about 6 feet done about the same length to complete. Its still beautiful as it composes a makeshift pattern, happy little accidents. This will be pieced into a fitted jacket for middle class Elizabethan. Excited to reach a new level of making the fabric to eventually make the garment. Its very satisfying. I plan on felting this a little in cool water to reduce some fraying of the weave. This is a tabby weave so its easy to follow.

Contemplating the next weaving project, have an idea waiting in the wings An opposite color combo of the warp so, its white with brown stripe. Possess the brown and white to use for the weft string. Mentally tying to figure out what the combos will look with different natural wool weft colors. I do not want to make stripes so I will have to make a desicion and stick to it.  Though the wool is pretty in the skein. So will have to see if I want a lighter colored garment or more medium colored. Best part is I can spin up more white if I need it. Have so much from years of spinning will be interesting to see what is possible.



In the meantime been working on my class handout for my "Hello Poppet" class at æcademy. So have some pictures to download and figuring out what I want to discuss in class. Lots to discuss and only an hour. Depending on the turnout may make a sequel class.  We shall see, excited to show progress and want to have one doll undressed for the class.

Plotting continues,

Marrin


Tuesday, May 9, 2017

Odd and ends


 So I have been working on miscellaneous projects as the next doll project has been progressing. Able to put a beeswaxes sissle rope in my pink silk petticoat. So now acts as a hoop skirt, keeping me untangled from my other under layers. Yet flexible to not dig into my ankles when sitting prolonged periods. Made a set of pockets from scrap materials from my red embroidered jacket. So hope to wear them soon.

Which was useful wearing the pink hoop petticoat, with my green silk Italian gown to the Queen
a&s tourney this last weekend. So was nice to be comfy though the weather was cool and I forgot my cloak. Able to display my lady pandora doll and the new heads and hands that I am making for the next few dolls. Super excited as folks asked lots of wonderful questions. On where I was taking the project and goals for the folio of future dolls I want to make. Many folks perused the research, so nice since its overlooked at times.
Since completing the replica of the only extant doll in the period.  I want to explore period techniques on the making of the next dolls, so expressed in wood cuts and out of materials such as porcelain, clay, metal and wood. Since I have many paintings showing dolls in period, I have sources to experiment with the techniques and make it look like the paintings. Its great when a plan comes together.

I want to find out more on porcelain, clay used at the time. More on period wood used for easy hand carving. Metal enamel paints and casting if the pieces in soap stone for more options for metal heads and hands. So much to do and plan. The heads are all painted now and ready for Hyde glue sealing from the gouche paint.

So coming right along, taking pictures as I go. Helps the documentation have a nice visual robustness when you can visually show your processes start to finish.

So back to more miniature madness, amongst other things.

Marrin

Thursday, April 20, 2017

Fitted Kirtle

Besides working on dolls. Which will be a very slow progress as I research and teach myself new skills and techniques. I revamped this kirtle, making it fit better and removing commercial trim. One learns from mistakes then corrects them. This was a valuable lesson.


I had to remove side back hooks close the seams. Cut the bodice center front. Then finish seams and add hook and eyes. As I went along working on these alterations, I had to take the skirt off replete and reattach.

I hope to take photos of what it tooks like while in wearing it soon. It sits so much better on the hanger than it did before too. A reasonable early Elizabethan middle class dress.

Also been working on another project. An Italian hairnet, replaced pearls and used all freshwater pearls with silk thread. Should be more elegant and sturdy.

Hope to see everyone Saturday April 29 at Hufnagel park for Lewisburg Arts Festival demo

Mairin

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Decade of Dolls

Sorry its been a few months since my last post but in no way lacking in work. Here are images of my next expended project. Referring to it as the decade of dolls , as it may take me that time to make them in their own respective glory.

 

  
Decided that with all the doll research recently completed. That there are some interesting depictions from different countries. Most use the same basis of construction as the Pandora extant doll from Stockholm, Sweden.

So working on drawings to understand the shapes color and construction methods for each.

To begin all this work. I am sculpting faces and hands from papier mache. Gathering spangles, taking stock of what I have and purchasing needed material for clothes specific to each costume doll.
   

So much miniature inspiration and progress. Will be posting more on the specific one I am starting soon

Marrin

Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Six Wives of Henry VIII

Six Wives of Henry VIII

King Henry VIII's Wives in Sequential Order

King Henry VIII of England 1491-1547


Queen Catherine of Aragon 1485-1536Divorced,


Queen Anne Boleyn 1501-1536 Beheaded,


Queen Jane Seymour 1508-1537 Died.


Queen Anne of Cleves 1515-1557 Divorced,


Queen Catherine Howard 1525-1542 Beheaded,


Queen Catherine Parr 1512-1548 Survived.

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Queen Elizabeth's Prayer at Bristol August 15,1574

Stretch forth,
O Lord most mightie,
Thy right hand over me,
and defend me from mine enemys,
that they never prevayle against me.

Give me, O Lord,
the assistance of Thy Spiritt,
and comfort of Thy grace,
truly to know Thee, intirely to love Thee,
and assuredly to trust in Thee.

And that as I do acknowledge
to have received the government
of this Church and Kingdom at Thy hand,
and to hold the same of Thee,
so grant me grace, O Lord,
that in the end I may render up
and present the same again
unto Thee, a peaceable, quiett,
and well-ordered State and Kingdome,
as also a perfect reformed church,
to the furtherance of Thy glory.

And to my subjects, O Lord God, grant,
I beseech Thee, faithful and obedient hearts,
willingly to submit themselves to the obedience
of Thy word and commandments,
that we altogether being thankfull unto Thee
for Thy benefitts received, may laud and magnifie
Thy Holy Name world without end.

Grant this, O merciful Father, for Jesus Christ's sake,
our only Mediator and Advocate.

Amen

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor  Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Red Velvet Elizabethan

Red  Velvet Elizabethan

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Jane Seymour Gown

Jane Seymour Gown

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Catherine Parr Gown

Catherine Parr Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla
A Proper Gabled Hood

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon
Duke and Dutchess of Suffolk

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Embroidered Waistcoat over Elizabethan Gown

Embroidered Waistcoat over  Elizabethan Gown

Queen Mary I of England

Queen Mary I of England

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose