Monday, August 1, 2016

Dressed Up And No Where To Go


Well here is the progress report so far on Everyone is Away Pennsic; sew-a-thon. One waistcoat/jacket cut and ready to sew that is the blackwork-like one, so this is on the sewing table of projects The other the red/pink embroidered the sleeves are set in and hook and eyes are next. Created a wool lined bodice and put pink trimmed tabs on the shoulders and waist line. Hemmed a shirt for attaching right to the dress of pink woven silk, this was done the weekend before last.

Found 10 yards of sage green silk and going to create a kirtle from this one with attached skirt. So this is finally off the sewing table to be created over last weekend. Looking forward to seeing how this will work out, still have to hem it to the right length.

I made a silk woven pink skirt, a black wool skirt, brown silk skirt, and a blue velvet skirt. Now looking to make the sets of sleeves I was talking about earlier a month or so ago.  Right now trying to figure where I wants the seam to sit, under the arm or the back of the arm based on the two patterns I know for period correct patterns. So this is still on the to do list yet so on the sewing agenda.


I finally finished the 14th century hood project as this has embroidery in chain, split and running stitch lined in green and gold linen a white linen upper and cuffed hood.  I leaned to make the slips, hood and project plan with Mistress Antoinette de la Croix and Hrefna frupikona porgrimsdottir from Shire of Abhainn Ciach Ghlais,  St. Claire embroidery event. Organized by  Jaqueline De Molieres, her excellency Mistress Alicia Langlen, and staff.

Will be taking the opportunity to go through my stash of dresses and list some up for sale. This will take a while to complete as many very attached to for many reasons.  Today took a good look into organizing my fabric stash. Purchased totes to store it all surprisingly all fits put for one area underneath my sewing table, I will later have to buy one more tub for all that. Though I went through and eliminating many unusable scraps.

Feeling much better have reorganized and now also rehomed my chancellor minor toys to the proper officer. So that made room also for the tote storage. Will possibly have to look into another steamer trunk to store more gowns and skirts in for this. Not in a hurry as I have means to hang it all up and put in away in other ways.

Now back to the sew a thon,

Mairin

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Weaving, sewing, and mischief

Besides a bunch of weaving that is now down to its last panel of fabric for the weft. Working on many a
project all at once. As living alone has given me loads of free-time, its high time I get some projects done.  Its coming along quite nicely but not sure what I am going to do with the handwoven fabric just yet. So I thinking the finished product will be 10 possibly 12 feet. So we shall see, had a weft break and manage to continue to repair and weave it back in, so that's a success. Its a noticeable flaw but these things are learning opportunities.

I have finally decided to work on more waistcoats to wear a more simple gentry garb for late period. So this is the red one with the very much anticipated embroidery. I have a black-work one I just cut out and is read contrast to the red. Ready to be sewn will have black collar and cuffs in the similar style .Much more portable and something I can change into unassisted. Planning on making more silk skirts, than the one I have as pink needs some washing. Looking to make a red, black one and some in wool as well. So that will be interesting. I plan on making several sets of silk sleeves and have a few bodices in mind to make a nice Elizabethan bit of wardrobe selection.

Worked out the embroidery pattern for the doll sleeve and embroidery for the face of the doll. I have a make shift stretcher frame to get these prepped for embroidery. I pleated all 3 skirts and sewn the layers to together, the armature is made, and hair is plaited. So major progress on this front.


With my birthday approaching next week been wondering what to do for my time off. Have opportunity to pay off a student loan or go to an SCA event before Pennsic. Didn't realize how much I could change my finances by staying home a few months, it was really needed as well. Though the downside is not getting to see friends or be social. So these topics have been on my mind.

Lots of exciting things on the horizon and looking forward to the future,

Mairin

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Weaving Life Lately

On a personal note things have been changing in my life which has affected my production of goods for many of my upcoming projects. They are still in process though its just going to be at a much slower pace. I have been working and focusing on finances as keeping my current address is paramount in making things. So that has stolen some production time as of late. Paying all the bills to get things caught up from last years unemployment has been a daunting task.



Though not to be down trodden in the world of money, I have been discovering the world of weaving. I just learned how to thread my 4 heddle loom to make a simple tabby weave. I am working on two ply mixed yarn to weave out a very interesting fabric. Not sure this is going to be made into at this point but very excited. Though my uncanny color matching skill do not go unpracticed as over the memorial day weekend matched these up to figure out a new project. Sleeves, Elizabethan sleeves in fact.  I also been figuring out various sleeve patterns to make Elizabethan tie on sleeves for gentry wear outfits for sometime. So working out the length and scope on these smaller projects. More of a good test of proper handwork.

 The silk fashion doll is coming along slowly and working on the many levels to that one project. Though spreading my focus keeps me from getting grim on one project. Hope to have more to post soon in the meantime, staying focused on the dream

Ever so busy,

Lady Marrin

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Doll, Diadem, and Style

Well been asked to use all my skills wrapped into one to create this...
This is a 16th fashion doll from Livrustkammaren, royal armory museum in Stockholm, Sweden. Its of the few surviving actual fashion dolls from the 16th century. Making a reproduction of this project, will envelope all my silks in needle arts to recreate. Sewing, embroidery, needle lace, beading, jewelry making, wire work, hair styling, and loads of patience. I have my supplies gathered and started on this right away.

I have created the diadem, that is the beaded tiara like item sewn on the top of the natural human hair wig. These decoration were sewn in for special occasions as seen in period portraiture.The wig is styled in the traditional hair style of the 16th century. I  refer to it as the rolled Elizabethan hair style, though its popularity is seen from 1550 on wards in Europe and Britain. Consisted of a wad of fabric or hair as the foundation to wrap the front sections and secure to make two distinct roll on the front of the head, creating the heart shaped feature with the face.

Looking forward to working on more elements in this project as well as the learning that will happen along the way.

Best wishes,

Mairin

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Loom and Shoes

I have created much on my small loom now limited by the width of the sheds looking to see what I can create with a wider one. Though I noticed beyound 10" to 15" inches they do not have as much mobility for me to take on a trip or to an event. Larger looms are still portable yet would take up a trunk of a car or small suv. Small enough before being deemed at castle loom which is inmoble and takes up a whole bedroom. A dream but not a practical reality for my retirement in the distant future.


I did make a purchase of a loom with many heddles this time and independent stand to sit in the corner when set up. Its twice the width of the small one. I plan on getting broad cloth to make a winder for my sheds to keep the warp from tangling on each other. This one I intend on making finer weaves and maybe could make fine enough fabric to produce my own wool for a project. An eventual goal in the sca future.

This is a 22" table loom with stand. I am planning on using the stand feature since this would take up about half of my dining room table. This Kyra Table Loom has a 22 inch weaving width, four harnesses and five reeds. The reeds are in good shape. There is a 16.25 inch wide/20 dent reed, a 15 inch/12 dent carbon reed, a 16.25 inch/10 dent carbon reed, a 16.25 inch/18 dent stainless reed and a 16 inch/5 dent carbon reed. The loom is made of cherry with metal harnesses and the harnesses fold down to make transport very simple. There is normal wear and tear as seen in the images, but no major damage. The loom has a rising shed and is equipped with a stand. Everything is very easily disassembled and folded for compact travel. There are two stick shuttles and three small bobbin shuttles that go with this loom. I had a double shuttle 15" wide and many bobbins large and small so have plenty to change pattern back and forth. It takes a 3 hours to set up the small one I am sure its going to take as long or longer to work out the heddles and reeds to get it just right. I will have to see if there are instructions on how this works.




In the meantime here is the progress on the viking shoes . The loops go on the outside and would have some form of fiture to tie them closed. Using fiber fill to show what they look like better but when both are done will look different with a foot and lining inside. Though I am excited to see how they wear and the differences, I do run around in stocking or barefoot alot so this shouldn't be too much of  a stretch for me in the sensation. Will be much more flexible than a modern shoe more like a slipper with no firm hard sole. Well more things to do and explore.

Fearless creating,

Maureen

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Weaving Dragons


Wool warp with same wider lofty weft
produces a similar but not exact scale
like effect though worked for twin
dragon babies ( see below)
Been away a little longer than I wanted though weaving is been a big part of my journey.  Though not been making scarves with the outcomes of my weaving projects. Here be dragons!
As I was weaving I notices some of honeycomb scale-like weaves that can be with wider weft versus narrow warp. So the fabrics look like this.
fabric on loom made into Chinese
 dragon(see below) narrow warp wide
 weft making scale like texture
   My first project was nice neat and tight with same width warp and weft which does make a tighter woven fabric over all. I learned that the varying thickness does make a difference in fabric behavior, therefore able to better understand how fabric works in varying scenarios. When dealing with warp weft, tension, and fiber content make the character of the fabric. Which will dedicates the better applications it can be applied compared to others.
Chinese style wurm creature. Made from handwoven fabric, wool and acrylic stuffing, polymer clay, aluminium foil, glass beads, feathers hot glue, acrylic paint, and acrylic sealer with huge dose of imagination. Need to find a name for my 7ft creature of the deep.
Fur scarf turned into magical
sea cat-dragon creature
Twin Aztec Quetzalcoatl wurm creatures. Made from handwoven fabric, wool and acrylic stuffing, polymer clay, aluminium foil, glass beads, feathers hot glue, acrylic paint, and acrylic sealer with huge dose of imagination
I have done some dragons for fun made out of  faux-fur scarves from Target but this gave the the idea for the woven ones. Though this gives me ideas for toys. What did the period animal toys look like and what materials would they have been made from. Another topic for a class possibly?  I have been working on the pattern for the Tudor gown bodices still and working out how the fabric lays. Need to get these done for the upcoming spring events.

The weaving has helped me take into consideration the way I need to lay my fabric and also layer the inside to make a solid foundation for the topic silk to lay correctly. I have fabric to work on it if it doesn't work out but prefer to get it right the first time if possible.

Fur scarf turned into magical
butterfly dragon creature
 In the meantime as I finish drafting patterns and mock ups, finishing my Viking turn shoes. Started them at Stelonwald schola event near Pittsburgh and its time to get them done.  So Finished the left and now working on the right after the assembly is complete I plan on making my own wool felt to line the bottoms on the inside of the shoe. I am not sure how I want to complete closures for them yet but looking at my options and would be the most period correct.

Working in ideas for more toy based research and youth based games and ideas. Looking at my options to get things rolling again with other chancellor minor related activities on many levels. So lots on the plate but nothing new on that. Have some alterations and repair requests too.

Busy,

Maureen

Friday, January 1, 2016

Unwraveling

Went through my yarn stash with the help of Vincent. Was able to look at what is left and plan according for future weaving projects. Now have to figure which one to work on next.  Bought new heddles for finer thicknesses of yarn. Thought looking for pattern ideas and something to make besides scarves.

Working on the pattern for the Tudor gowns to get the bodice just right. Making a mock up to work the pattern and finish adjustments. Make sure it's smooth before add silk on top layer. Looking forward to working on getting it just right. Worth taking my time to get it as well as I can make it. Buttons are almost done and will be sewn on the dress with respective loops. Found some more fabric to make more buttons in black. Have discovered a better method and plan on coming the two in a future post. I made 16 for the green wool Greenland gown. Not sure about the garment the black buttons will grace.

One a work note, have a new aerial plants for work and a creative dream catcher to decorate my desk.  The holiday garland will go back and be replaced by hearts for Valentine's Day. So things to brighten my work environment with cheerful and festive decor.

Received my letter from Laurel my name passed so offically Marrin O'Kealy

Lots to do in 2016,

Marrin

Monday, December 21, 2015

Weaving, Belts and Buttons

Well been working on small projects since my last event, not wanting to dive into something during the holidays. So been enjoying a much lighter project bag of late. Not the less, working on projects for the upcoming year including a class on intermediate black work embroidery.

 This week I made two belts out of trim to wear with some earlier
period garb. They look good not sure if I am changing the settings on some but am considering some options. Finished the green wool dress and working on the buttons for the sleeves half way done. Its nice to make some progress even if small.

Finished the beginner weaving project and it turned out well. Using it as a scarf for now, not sure what the future will hold with weaving but its fun. A for me to use up my stash of yarn that has existed since college in 2005. Have a few practice projects on the slate in my mind to see if its worth working with my single spun wool.

Looking forward to working on some toy research still working out some of the kinks. Also perfecting the Tudor fit and silhouette that I love so much. So here is to a happy holidays and prosperous 2016. Stay tuned folks its going to be another great year of Tudorosities.

Excited,

Mairin

Monday, December 7, 2015

More Teaching and learning

Completed my wool greenland dress that I bought pre-cut out at FFF. It was meant to fit a size 12 woman 5'4". I was able to complete the hem lower and it works for my 5'7" self. Though I need to take more in on the sides if I want it to fit very tailored. The traditional one has 12 gores but other styles have had less gores to create a fitted dress.currently working on wool buttons for the sleeves, I hope to get pictures soon wearing it.

Over the weekend stayed in Pittsburgh. Its is an interesting laid out city, lots of hills
and small communities all around make up a varied selection of neighborhoods. Its bigger than I thought plus not as much laid out on a grid system as I would have expected. First day visited the Zoo and Aquarium, which is a first I never did this as a child. Does make a difference seeing it in real life than in a book or photograph. In the evening lots of good food, Christmas market and skating rink, and nice indoor festivities for those wanting keeping warm.

Spent my Sunday teaching and learning. I went to Steltonwald's teaching event which is more informal. No garb required, which was nice to see what everyone looks like in mundanes. So many of us work on our garb and look its nice to see what the real world sees. I taught 3 people my coif making class, two out of the 3 completed their projects. I patterned and cut out a pair of viking turn shoes and now have a project to lock stitch together. Figured if I am doing viking at Pennsic, might as well have the proper shoes.

 So after a long drive down on Friday and back very tired on Sunday. Wishing for a day of recovery time with my cats and Vince. Though its time to get back to the work week pace.

Back to it,

Lady Mairin

Monday, November 16, 2015

Teaching

My AOA Circlet
Improved my 16th Century Coif  Make and Take class by making my instructions to more clear and include pictures with the instructions to make measuring and assembling easier. I have a few small additions to in the instructions but for the most part its much improved.

At Pennsic when I taught this twice, had fast sewers though the instructions were unclear. Half the class was able to complete this within the time limit of 1 hour 30 mins. Which even with taking extra time to explain,  most had the concept by the time the class was done. Made sure to add my contact info to ask any questions when they arose at home.

Wearing my AOA circlet
This time I was a 2 hours class at Aethelmearc Academy but no one finished. I had gone through explaining the instructions and with more than half the class left, had my 4 students cut out their patterns some wanted to take home to do by machine, which is fine. I went into a bit more history of coifs and related items like the embroidered jackets and how most of these were made by a professional embroiderer and these would have been costly luxury items in the gentry and up. I received some wonderful feed back on cheap measuring tapes and can use the ends of soap as fabric marking items. So was educational for me too, a true meeting and sharing of knowledge.

 Received a request for a class on basic period stitches and to make a small sampler.  In period it would be a spot sampler to work out stitches before a project was created. Its not the well organized versions that make up a picture as one thinks about when needlework sampler is mentioned. So I am thinking about this and want to direct this towards the person. So may need to come up with a plan and have Leo work through it as a beginning embroidered and have him be my guinea pig for this class.

It a Clewe
I wanted to thank the AEcademy for their efforts to enlighten and encourage teachers. As this takes time to prepare, money for materials and effort to get up in front of strangers and bare your passion for a historical topic. I love the little gifts and treats, its a small gesture of how one cares. This time they put clewes in the bag and gave hints on how they are used. I think these are neat and hope the little gift research based items will be included in future AEcademy teacher gifts.

Just on a general garb note fixed my cloak, clasp fell off. Mastering the tied up head-covering and veils used in earlier medieval periods. Thinking of making some viking for something different for Pennsic. FFF is coming up working on a scavenger hunt, and plan on taking classes. Looking forward to finishing up my Tudor gowns in progress.  Working on the bodice pattern now and perfecting the fittings to get it just right.

Lots to do,

Marrin

Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Six Wives of Henry VIII

Six Wives of Henry VIII

King Henry VIII's Wives in Sequential Order

King Henry VIII of England 1491-1547


Queen Catherine of Aragon 1485-1536Divorced,


Queen Anne Boleyn 1501-1536 Beheaded,


Queen Jane Seymour 1508-1537 Died.


Queen Anne of Cleves 1515-1557 Divorced,


Queen Catherine Howard 1525-1542 Beheaded,


Queen Catherine Parr 1512-1548 Survived.

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Queen Elizabeth's Prayer at Bristol August 15,1574

Stretch forth,
O Lord most mightie,
Thy right hand over me,
and defend me from mine enemys,
that they never prevayle against me.

Give me, O Lord,
the assistance of Thy Spiritt,
and comfort of Thy grace,
truly to know Thee, intirely to love Thee,
and assuredly to trust in Thee.

And that as I do acknowledge
to have received the government
of this Church and Kingdom at Thy hand,
and to hold the same of Thee,
so grant me grace, O Lord,
that in the end I may render up
and present the same again
unto Thee, a peaceable, quiett,
and well-ordered State and Kingdome,
as also a perfect reformed church,
to the furtherance of Thy glory.

And to my subjects, O Lord God, grant,
I beseech Thee, faithful and obedient hearts,
willingly to submit themselves to the obedience
of Thy word and commandments,
that we altogether being thankfull unto Thee
for Thy benefitts received, may laud and magnifie
Thy Holy Name world without end.

Grant this, O merciful Father, for Jesus Christ's sake,
our only Mediator and Advocate.

Amen

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor  Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Red Velvet Elizabethan

Red  Velvet Elizabethan

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Jane Seymour Gown

Jane Seymour Gown

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Catherine Parr Gown

Catherine Parr Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla
A Proper Gabled Hood

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon
Duke and Dutchess of Suffolk

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Embroidered Waistcoat over Elizabethan Gown

Embroidered Waistcoat over  Elizabethan Gown

Queen Mary I of England

Queen Mary I of England

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose