Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Lace Gallery


       


Lace Details


Linen used was 32 threads per inch 100% linen fabric. I found the finest from a local cross stitch shop, as it would be easier for me to see in person the thickness I am purchasing.  This was edged to prevent fraying and then stitched to a wooden frame for the lacework to be completed. Keeping in mind the tension needed consistency which was a challenge during this part of the project.

The side vertical channels of the design are 14 threads across with 6 on either side of 2 in the middle. The middle vertical channel is 20 threads across with 9 on either side of 2 in the the middle. The bottom horizontal channel is 40 threads across with 18 on the top and 19 on the bottom and 3 in the middle.

In cases of direction, weft threads were cut for the horizontal channel and warp threads stitched into cross sections. Where as the vertical channels the warp threads were cut and the weft were gathered into cross sections stitched into place.

A knowledge of weaving for the direction of the fabric plus and knowing which threads to cut in which direction was very important for the project to remain organized. Luckily the design is geometric and makes the formula easier to figure out.  

All the pulled threads counted 6 threads to make vertical cross sections for the horizontal channel at the bottom of the design. Then gathered the same number for weft threads in the vertical channels. I used a buttonhole stitch to secure around all the channels and also as the stitch to gather all the cross sections.
 Letting some space for the foundation threads that would be later sewn with button hole stitch to meet the same thickness as the cross-sectioned threads. You can see the cross-sectioned areas are thicker in the adjacent photo. Foundation threads are thinner ready to be worked with the buttonhole stitch to give depth as well as attach to intersecting lines for stability and strength.

One of my major challenges is preventing twisting in the buttonhole stitches around the base threads on either the cross-sections or the foundation threads. This is where tension and consistency plays a role in the look remaining fluid through the whole design. I discovered this later in the making of this project and would much different than if I had known a little more technique at the beginning.
     
     Though as I began to realize I found ways of undoing the twist or making it work to more dramatic effect. So on occasion happy little discoveries can be made during the creation process.
I am certain this happens to many an artist in their work.
Fig 22
In this adjacent photo we have the first cross-sectioned piece all filled in with foundation threads all stitched and intersections secured. This is really where I could see all the potential of the design working into the final look.

Till this point I was considering starting over and considering other options for this feature of the doll. Though I knew this was the centerpiece and everything was working up to this point and the apron had to be handmade lace. It may not be the best piece of lace but its my first piece and though its not as exact as I would like am very proud about not giving up and completing the task.

In the end its not always the most perfect piece that tells us an exciting story. Instead the one that needs some work or is a beginner piece that states the character of the creator of the art. The adjacent picture shows the first circle loop completed is the center of the design and gives it some extra geometric character to the linear for the horizontal channel. There is more circle motifs in the vertical channels as well to create a solid unity of design.

All the buttonhole is worked in a fine 2/100 silk thread from white wolf and phoenix and is just great for this kind of fine work. Beeswax of course to prevent fraying and tangling. I also used a wider white silk for edging and finishing for this piece.

In the images below from left to right I show the process of lining out the channel, snipping/pulling, them bordering the channels, and stitching cross=sections then adding sterling silver jump rings to make smaller circles for the upper channels.

The over all design is representative of the lace apron in the painting but a few changes of design due to unrefined skill level abilities though a strong first attempt at pulled lace embroidery.

Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Poppet!

As you can see from my prior post, I made some changes to the second doll. I added silk accents to be closer to the lines we see in the painting. Changed the cone like support structure to legs stuffed them and added shoes. Reevaluated the hair decor made it smaller. Rearranged the ruff to make it fluffier.

The apron is in process. Its also handmade lace and will take a length of time to complete. Which will be the last finishing touch.

 I have found a source on modern child psychology on the significance of play and its effect on development. Now its a modern source, as this was not a focus in the 16th century. Though was suggested from a class evaluation would give some added depth. I think its a great idea and am finding ways of incorporating into my research and class material

I am teaching Hello Poppet at Fabric Fiber and Fighting on November 18th. I have enough for 10 spots so if you can make it, hope to see you there.

As a reward for all the hard work for family related issues this summer. I am attending Æthemearc Academy this November 4, won't be teaching but will catch up with everyone.

Looking forward,

Lady Marrin O'Kealy

Doll Gallery













Monday, October 9, 2017

Lurking the Interwebs in October


My most favorite month of the whole year, next to my birthday month. Halloween is at the end one of my favorite time of the year, when trickery and little bit of magic are in the air. I get all excited just like a little kid, this is more my Christmas than it is in December. Just seem to like the sights and sounds of the season more, even if it borders on the macabre. Though to quote a period personal motto, "In my end is my beginning". Which is true the end is not final, its just a transition into an other self.

 Purchased some favorite spooky selections on dvd. Though its nice to take things as a slower pace a bit more healing. Especially after the big household clean out of 2017. There is more to come on this front in the new year.

Never fails I haven't worked on many sca projects except my last embroidery frame of the 4 part Unicorn Tapestry series. Though all is prepared household wise and just waiting to see what happens on the homefront. So being bogged down may be for the best, all things considered.

I made some more seasonal projects  this weekend, like a proper ceremonial broom and some natural incense smudges for the rest of the year. Nice to get back to wild crafting as a friend calls it, makes me feel loved by Gaea and alive.

Though I have sewing on my mind very often but want to focus it more on the doll project. So been formulating ways of making what is in progress more detailed. Closer to the painting, which is something considering the detail in the painting. It will be a thing of beauty, the trick is the crafting. Luckily still have plenty of time.

Well as I contemplate my next step in miniature creation, I leave you with pictures of seasonal crafts.

Lurking about,

Marrin O'Kealy

Sunday, September 17, 2017

Projects, organization, and making. Oh my!

 

 Have been up to some different challenges lately; good and bad in the mix. Life has been personally trying with a more recent family crisis. Difficult times do show you the differences between true friends and the casual ones.  Not going into much detail but lets say some positive changes are coming for all involved.  
Which leads me to my next series of topics.

      Its been needing completed since 2014, successfully cleaned out my shed got rid of mouse nests and cardboard boxes. All this in an evening after work. Plastic totes were accumulated over the last year, then fabric stored in my front bedroom for most of 2016. Though after the massive clean out here last week 2017, my extensive textile collection has been relocated to the shed.  My sewing room/storage room which is majority cleaned out to make room.

My cats love new spaces, especially ones they are not allowed.  Thrilled doesn't begin to describe their enthusiasm that this space is open for their leisure. The window in the room is occupied constantly to their contentment. Successfully typing on my desk from the front bedroom, its rather nice. All set up like an office but still in transition for finding new homes for certain items. A decades worth of old bills, taxes, and prior work information lies in the middle of the floor. This over the next week, will be nightly shredded after being sorted.

 No rest of the wicked, I completed another panel of the unicorn tapestry needlepoint kits. This is Dimensions 2128 circa 1980 discontinued kit, this has taken me quite some time to complete. Will make a linen lining and loops like the other two, though this time in a rich red. The other two are on the wall above me looking awesome.

Reorganized the loom supplies in the kitchen, including the spinning supplies in the living room, also the embroidery supplies also in the living room. I threw out more cardboard in my storage linen area, other misc trash, unwanted and unsaleable
items. At the least the sorting had to happen regardless. because it was daunting being under so much stuff, much not needed. Its freeing knowing where things are in the totes now. Managed to get my Halloween items out so that can be done this week too. Also have the doll-making items tucked near by to do some work on that project here soon. Some small fun with the work.

Keeping with the Positive and Eliminating the Negative,

 Lady Marrin O'Kealy

Sunday, August 27, 2017

Lewisburg Arts

Figured I would show the images from the Art Festival |Demo in Lewisburg Pa in the spring. This shows the finished jacket in all its glory two images of me wearing it. Plus my spinning wheel and demo set up. Hoping I can see what else is needed to give some constant improvement. I give full credit of the images to Joseph Morgan, thank you for such great images to share with folks to show their best.

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan 
Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Maureen Benfer

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan



Photo credit to Joseph Morgan

Photo credit to Joseph Morgan
Photo credit to Joseph Morgan





Your Daily Source of Fiber


Since the wheel has been obtained, for those following along its since Pennsic. Safely obtained and eventually set up in my living room and spun yarn on it successfully. Had to condition the wood it was crying out for moisture. Conditioned both wheels while I was at the task. So both are happy campers. I wanted to make sure my stash is all set for spinning for a while. Wonderful Merino I have oodles in white is part of my collection. Certain the fiber will spin beautifully and I have at least 2lbs of roving. Though I have others fibers needing carded and any overly knotted or felted pieces picked out, otherwise its slubby yarn and is not as nice or smooth looking.

So I dug out my washed fleeces. So I have a grey one and a buff one, picking through them. Making sure no felted pieces or vegetable matter are in the final wool. Put them in the same box and carefully carding the fibers in respective colors. Hoping to get rid of inconsistencies I ran into with both hand carded yarns. So will have some improved staple I have carded spun then made into something.  This is a task in the evenings while watching a movie or something silimar. Its a dirty job too but that is no surprise.


Making a bat head fixture for my great wheel. Bought some pine and trying a few ideas out. This equipment is the more medieval technology than the accelerator wheel, which the later is 19th century technology. Also trying to make sure it fits my great wheel, so measure twice cut once. Finally completed two other sets of spindles for my flax wheel. So there has been some word working in my house lately. Will see he all this turns out and when they are all complete fit right and function correctly then the stain will be added.

 Keep on keeping on. I have more to share but this will have to do for now.

So here is your daily source of fiber,

Marrin O'Kealy

Sunday, August 6, 2017

While you were Pennsic-ing...

Well it's a week most of my friends are away at Pennsic. Great news traveling back of battles, parties, purchases, and well deserved awards. Hoping one and all have a safe and happy Pennsic war.

 In the meantime, I am making progress on my 5 silk kirtles. Currently have two bodices assembled and now working on the next. Hoping to be attaching skirts next week for all 5. The fit seems to be good for doing the pattern cutting when tired late at night. I don't recommended cutting patterns late at night or if one is tired.

On the weaving front, no new progress on the loom. Though still looks awesome. I have a lace development I will be sharing later, so stay tuned.

 Though as folks are making awesome once in a lifetime purchases, I am working on my own. The following are pictures of a walking wheel or aka great wheel. This is one in working order located about an hour west from me. I will have the beauty in hand on Friday. Looking forward to seeing if it will fit in my mustang. Though it disassembles and I plan on unloading my trunk completely. I think it will work according the measurements  provided. The wheel is for a wonderful deal cash on hand $125. Which is much less than 200 year old my castle double draft wheel. Super stoked and ready to pick her up.

So here is to responding when opportunity knocks,

Lady Marrin O'Kealy






Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Six Wives of Henry VIII

Six Wives of Henry VIII

King Henry VIII's Wives in Sequential Order

King Henry VIII of England 1491-1547


Queen Catherine of Aragon 1485-1536Divorced,


Queen Anne Boleyn 1501-1536 Beheaded,


Queen Jane Seymour 1508-1537 Died.


Queen Anne of Cleves 1515-1557 Divorced,


Queen Catherine Howard 1525-1542 Beheaded,


Queen Catherine Parr 1512-1548 Survived.

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Queen Elizabeth's Prayer at Bristol August 15,1574

Stretch forth,
O Lord most mightie,
Thy right hand over me,
and defend me from mine enemys,
that they never prevayle against me.

Give me, O Lord,
the assistance of Thy Spiritt,
and comfort of Thy grace,
truly to know Thee, intirely to love Thee,
and assuredly to trust in Thee.

And that as I do acknowledge
to have received the government
of this Church and Kingdom at Thy hand,
and to hold the same of Thee,
so grant me grace, O Lord,
that in the end I may render up
and present the same again
unto Thee, a peaceable, quiett,
and well-ordered State and Kingdome,
as also a perfect reformed church,
to the furtherance of Thy glory.

And to my subjects, O Lord God, grant,
I beseech Thee, faithful and obedient hearts,
willingly to submit themselves to the obedience
of Thy word and commandments,
that we altogether being thankfull unto Thee
for Thy benefitts received, may laud and magnifie
Thy Holy Name world without end.

Grant this, O merciful Father, for Jesus Christ's sake,
our only Mediator and Advocate.

Amen

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor  Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Red Velvet Elizabethan

Red  Velvet Elizabethan

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Jane Seymour Gown

Jane Seymour Gown

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Catherine Parr Gown

Catherine Parr Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla
A Proper Gabled Hood

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon
Duke and Dutchess of Suffolk

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Embroidered Waistcoat over Elizabethan Gown

Embroidered Waistcoat over  Elizabethan Gown

Queen Mary I of England

Queen Mary I of England

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose