Sunday, December 3, 2023

New Gowns for Me

 

Picture by Elska A Fjarfelli 
I have been putting off making more Tudor clothing for myself.  For the past few years, I have been dealing with a lot of family loss and some estate-related responsibilities. So my motivation for making full size clothing has been minimal. I have been working on the dolls for soothing sewing practice, and also as some healing art therapy besides working on my book. Now that estate things are winding up, I am in a better headspace to tackle projects for me. 

This gown I made a few years ago but never worn, it fits just so.  This gown features full coverage over my linen/hemp stays. It can be worn with coordinating sleeves,  I kept the bodice separate and found that, when it's snug fitted nothing moves from the separate layers.  I wore my black-worked pocket, black-worked chatelaine, and coif with partlet made a nice contrast against the gold fabric. Received many compliments and am pleased with how it all coordinated into a cohesive outfit. Besides being comfortably snug which is how these garments worked, I was good all day wearing. Even doing some mild lifting as needed. I need to hem the skirt higher but that is an easy fix.

Picture by Elena De La Palma
So testing out the bodice pattern was perfect, now I can see about using that pattern for my current gown project. I have 5 yards of a flocked geometric patterned linen in chocolate brown. This is currently in progress, I made the skirt its time to make the bodice. I will just make a few adjustments in the shoulder area. I can have a new gown made for Kingdom 12th Night. I do have a blue gown ready for wearing as a backup that fits snugly as well. That gown was made by Mistress Phillipia as a silent auction item, which I won, and have added silk charmeuse to the slashes. Also made a high-necked chemise to go with the gown to give it some nice contrast in the neckline. 

I was able to get some tips from a dear friend on fit on the next gown to make a smoother bodice.  The pictures of the blue gown are over my gold one. So it's a snug fit but will be better with one less layer underneath. I added white silk to the puffs on the sleeves and bodice for more contrast. The silk was a gift from my oldest sister Melissa when she was living in Saudia Arabia. The last detail for the blue gown is making the eyelets a little easier to see and just a bit bigger.

For the holidays, I splurged and bought a purple and gold brocade 100% silk from Sartor Fabrics. My order arrived the other day from the Czech Republic. It's the bomb! and am thinking of a gown for this as well but trying to figure out which style of gown I want for this fabric. It's wonderfully heavy and full-bodied, just as period silk fabrics would have been.  So working on some ideas for this in my head.

As far as silk fabrics for Renaissance clothing, I recommend weaves of Taffeta, Brocade, and fine Dupioni (fewer slubs the better)

Dancing Sugar Plums in gowns,

Mairin

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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry