Thursday, February 19, 2015

Gifts and Talents

I have this uncanny ability at finding items that possibly could make good garb. I ran across this 12% silk velvet jacket on eBay. Looked at it and said to myself that would make a really cute ladies doublet. Proceeded to purchase the item which was very inexpensive. Received it quickly and tried it on which it was an extra small. I was not certain with the way it was advertised,whether or not it would fit. It fit perfectly it was a little bit loose for what would be the measurements of my corset self.
Before as original garment
So proceeded to take the modern out of this garment. I seam ripped front pockets because there would be no pockets on the garment like this. After doing so and sewing up the seams. I was able to use the material from the pockets and make little guards for the tops of the sleeves. I took off the buttons off at the front of the jacket and the sleeves. Proceeded to paint the edges with gold paint to make them look more like a Renaissance style button. Then use a slightly lighter colored silk ribbon, attached it to where the button closures would have been. Using the buttons as accent going down the front of this doublet. I do still have two buttons leftover that are the larger variety and trying to decide if I am going to use them on this garment still?
During pocket removal
Have to add hook and eye closure is on the inside edge of this garment to make sure that there is a sturdiness to it. The silk ribbons certainly could tie the front of this, however they would be putting a lot of stress and warp the silk. So it is better off that I use hook and eye closures that can take some of the pressure off of the decorative ribbons. I figured that this jacket which features a peplum style skirting on the bottom, makes it almost look like a fitted ladies doublet jacket. As well as I want to add boning to the inside lining of this jacket to give it some stiffness and rigidity.
After modification and decoration.

 basic flash light.
 worn in warm light
Tightened up the fit around the waist when I handsewn some of the seams with a small pleat. So next is to try this on with a matching silk taffeta skirt that I had made all by hand. I still have as of yet to him this particular skirt. And I am uncertain if I want to do anymore decorating on this garment yet. I was thinking that if I do add anything it's either going to be more gold metallic or black. Just to give it a little bit of interest. However I want to look at finishing techniques and decoration techniques on lady style doublets before Adding any further decoration. This would definitely count as a gentle ladies jacket at this point. So it just really depends if I want to make it more court like or more upper-
middle-class.

For certain adding the boning on the inside lining, and adding small beads to the ends of the silk ribbon to keep from fraying. Need to add some trim around the waist line and the bottom seam of the peplum to cover up the lines from the pockets. It's all in how I want to decorate it. So many wonderful options yet, I will definitely make a decision because I'm consider wearing this over the
weekend. I plan on matching this up with a black worked coif, a velvet riding hat with feathers, and matching it up with appropriate dark color jewelry. Which will show up nice against the velvet.
Will post pictures when the ensemble is complete.


Well back to it,

Mairin

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Glitter and Shine

Finally had time to sit and embroider the goldwork on my coif. Its by no means complete, though progress has been made. I have the whole bottom row scroll designs complete. I have the second row almost done, four more scrolls designs to do on this row. I post pictures showing the sparkly progress.  I want to be half way done by the end of the weekend. Here's to a goal! The early work schedule is good, it to gets me home sooner to have a smidgen of a social life. Had a bad week of divorce hang ups, tablet screen breaking, and some minor inconveniences. Its ok will be able to take my stress away on my Saturday yoga session. Was great to spend some of Valentines with my sister. Bought some new Magic the Gathering cards and see if I can enhance my decks. So have find time dig through them and come up with' a stradgedy for a deck or modify the others I have made a set or two back.

Sort of Valentines gifts to myself, bought new boots my ones have gotten too loose in the calves to be wearable. Though I am happy to get new ones that fit snugly. Got them cheaper than the prices found online. Two sweaters with laces on the back, one in blue and one in green. Plus its better to try them on, sizing on clothes and shoes not standard through the fashion industry. Would like to make this my life goal, but no influences on modern fashion industry. Darn!

Bought new tablet with word processing capability and storage I can do research papers on it. Worth the extra money spent for Bluetooth and the other features plus a larger screen. Not sure what to do with my broken one, will have to see what I can do with it. Maybe get it repaired. Lots of cat socialization this week. Which they deserve so much more of my time, than they receive. So a nice relaxing weekend until the pipes at my house frozen with the cold weather.  So that did take up time but was able to get things thawed for the most part. Some house chores to do and  more embroidery to relax to make more pretty things to wear.

Well back to it,

Mairin

Thursday, February 5, 2015

Arachne`s Curse

Well been busy but been an weaving based educational few days. Bought a new Lucet made from cow horn. Its much smoother working with silk than my wooden Lucet. I am going to sand my wooden one to get out the snags and burs in the arms. Its smooth but silk is just fine enough to catch in some of  the natural edges of the white oak. It does well with cotton but the silk catches.

I finished my lavender yarn belt off my tablet loom. Not certain what I am going to do with it yet, but it was good practice to get better.

Restrung it with white silk to weave a white band. These bands were used with dress hooks to hold up tudor skirts and seen in many different reference paintings. One namely the drawing of a Flemish lady by Hans Holbein.
This gentle lady is the main inspiration for my persona, though she is flemish and my persona is Irish.  The garb reminds me of something elegant yet functional Lady Mairin would wear and the time period is right.its my inspiration to make a second attempt at making this total outfit.


So I know a source for the hooks from a Scadian artisan, so now to weave the bands. I am detangling some of the string from the first stringing of silk. So I can string a second loom later.  Not sure if the bands are one continuous band or two around the arms. Not way of telling, not many portraits from the back.
   
Bought the book on Sweet Bags book, been eyeing for sometime.  Its as good as people have recommended. Have to read more to figure out what extent design I want to try. I haven made progress on the goldwork for the coif since Sunday. Don't think i will have time his weekend either but will try to squeeze in time to work on it.  Found some new garb inspirations and these two gowns are on the never ending garb list.


Garb Dreaming,

Mairin

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry