Sunday, September 27, 2015

Patterning with Tailoring

Teaching at Pennsic was educational for me as well as the students I taught. Realized a great  disconnect between taking a 2 dimensional fabric and making it fit a 3 dimensional body is very difficult for most people. Getting a pattern constructed and properly fitted does take time and skill. Its a small feat I have been working out over the past 10 years.

 Finding that out first hand working with two close scadian friends THL Jacqueline de Molieres and Mistress Marguerite de Hon Fleur to fit a new bodice for me that I can use for my Tudor gowns. I am hoping to make a muslin of mock up of the fitted Elizabethan Jacket as well will allow me to get a proper fit on it once and for all. So I can make the pattern for it.

On the Tudor gown front I sewed the skirt panels, made waist bands and have sleeves linings sewed
and pinned to be sewed together.   I have yet to pleat and hem said skirts, attach skirts to waistbands, tailor a bodice and sew it together add trim. So still much more to complete on the silk Tudor gown front. Very pleased with how they are turning out so far and excited to see the finished product.

Lots more to come from me and many new projects on the horizon,

Marrin
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Sunday, September 13, 2015

Stitch Book and Embroidery

Received the supplies for embroidery marguerites for a Laurel cloak. These are put together and organized for my friend THL Marguerite Hon Fleur by her laurel for her Laurel cloak. So now to work over the weekend to get them completed and sent off in the mail to her Laurel to assemble. Will consume my entire weekend most likely. Though I have been watching Downton Abbey, finished the first 3 seasons already.  Worked on these pieces while watching will be the theme for the weekend. Which they turned out very nice, just needs stems.

Also had my dentist appointment on Saturday, not looking forward to it. Though it will be a break
from stitching, though I have a feeling my teeth will ache after this visit. To which they do but its more the gums healing from not being taken care of for many years of no cleanings. Will have a filling to do in september but covered by insurance, nice to see it comes in handy.

 On a embroidery note had an idea to make a fabric stitch book for sometime. I wanted to do a period one based on Pre 16th century stitches. This is more for a teaching aide than a period based project. Baroness Elizabeth von Flossenburg  has a 100 page book to make a fabric stitch book. Thinking of splitting it into pre-16th century and post-16th century stitches since there are many listed. Looking forward to the challenge and seeing how I can make it very useful.

I will not be able to release the photos and stitches used till the cloak is complete and presented. Though want to show some progress as they were made. Here is the finished embroidery with stems will yet to be seen how it will look with all the other daises completed.

Working two silk Tudor gowns, one in light blue and other in a mauve pink color. The mauve pink selection will have patterned hanging sleeves will match it up with some foresleeves in a gold color fabric I have on hand. The light blue will be lined with velvet and will make a matching forepart  and sleeves I have on hand already. So looking at making these to go with the hats and accessories I have on hand. These will bee good spring like gowns and could be layered with partlets to be warm or cold weather.

Working on the studies of a Tudor noble woman now back to sewing,
,
Lady Marin

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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry