Kirtles, embroidery, and spinning Oh My!

Grey Wool Tudor Kirtle with Blackworked bag, Chatelaine, and Partlet

 I have much time on my hands to craft and create. Currently working on front lacing kirtles to fill up my garb for Pennsic. Have wool ones and making some canvas ones as well. I think merchant gentlewoman is the way to go for the warmer months,besides sporting Italian. The canvas will be orange, and orange and yellow, the wool is black, brown, grey. These make up relatively fast and efficiently. Will post some photos when they are complete. One so far many to go!

Wearing one to the Lewisburg Arts Festival Demo tomorrow. So should have some good period
1560's English photos with me spinning wool. Taking some of my embroidery to show late period examples. Encouraging Sca aren't going to other events to come and join the encampment. Its all day then going to help a friend with a sewing emergency. So a busy weekend!

My friend who was upgrading to a newer vehicle, did get a high mileage used car to get me through the next year or so. I do not want to use it for events, don't trust it far from home. Though I have car pulling arrangements with the same friend to get back and forth from farther away events. Though I have a gold dragon and its name is Nugget ;-)  I'm very blessed to have a great network of  friends and family to lean on in this tough time. I hope to have new employment soon, have jobs possibilities on the line now to hook a good one :-)

Still have to make some leg armor for my friend and some eyelets for a gambeson. Plus pleat a surcoat shoulders and finish the trim for next weekend. Not impossible but a busy week, coming down to the wire. Crown tournament is next weekend and have to get all this ready by then, its my first and super excited. I plan on learning much during this event in regards to tournaments.  I have been working most events so I rarely see festivities much other than court on occasion. This is his first crown too so should be educational.


Sewing Away,

Lady Mairin

Pretty In Pink

Modified a modern blazer to look more like a ladies 16th century waistcoat. This is a machine crewel wool embroidered blazer with no collar or cuffs. I proceeded to take out the pockets and open the side seams equally to the top of the pocket opening on all four seams.

Them added picots in those seams of a solid pink lined material since I didn't have embroidered material to match the rest of the jacket. I med a corresponding collar and cuffs for this ensemble. So I plan on putting this up with my pink silk skirt, coif, riding hat.

When I accumulate more new items will post photos of me wearing new items soon.

Back to more sewing,

Mairin

Another One Bites The Dust

Well after a lot of anguish, it is complete. My late period blackworked and goldworked coif is completely finished and assembled. Here are a few picture of the last part of the progress. To refresh here is a little about the research behind this project. Heavy inspired by extant coif in private collection. Found on page 135 of Elizabethan Stitches. My first attempt at these stitches, goldwork, blackwork, and coif construction.



Only 12 more swirls to complete

100% complete embroidery
 

cut out from frame and ends secured.

back showing ends secured before lining.

assembled showing crown goldwork sitiches.



assembled showing profile view
 

 So another fantastic embroidery project complete. Looking to be making mixed amounts of garb and embroidery projects in much larger volume and frequency. Normally I wouldn't have time for such a investment in projects.  Unfortunately I lost my employment as of Wednesday. So filed for benefits  and waiting to see the final determination of my claim.

In the meantime I am well stocked in supplies so no better way to pass the time between job searches than to sew and embroider myself into oblivion. I made sure to consolidate my bills and subscriptions so all set for cheaper living. I do not have a personal vehicle of my own so I am stuck at home most days. Luckily I do have friends to help out but am needing a good source of income and a car asap.

So onward with the sew-a-thon,

Mairin

Little Bo Peep

Made to major embroidery progress over the weekend. Able to complete 25% of my coif, which leave three quarters done. I still have 25% more to go but it's making up quickly and looking very beautiful. So I'm very excited that when it is completed. It'll be really nice to be able to pair it up with some of my riding hats.

Speaking of hats, I've been going through my garb and seeing what outfits I currently own. Definitely have to make lighter layered garb for Pennsic . However I was able to locate two peasant dresses. So a little less sewing that I will have to do. Took a few pictures of one that I had to go out with other Scadian  friends over the weekend. So a very productive weekend, I'm hoping that I can find some time in the evenings for the rest the week to complete the embroidery. And start on belt favors that need to be completed by Pennsic.

My persona started out as a shepherdess in Ireland. That is some of the inspiration for the

conglomeration in the picture you see above, She was basically sold off to the English on the 1530s by her father who happened to be a tradesman in Ireland. So with everything going on in her new home, she learned to become a lady in waiting to the noble lady of the house. And through earning favor she was placed  as head lady of wardrobe for her noble woman. And eventually ended up being a trusted enough to accompany her to court. That's a little bit of background in regards to Mairins' roots.

The outfits that I was thinking about making was to make Italian Florentine. This way they will not have many layers and should be easier to wear in the summer. They will all have a very similar bodice, the one will have a  skirt of copper the other will have a skirt of sage. I have a blue velvet fabric that'll work great with a satin bodice top. And I have a few ideas in regards to some multi layer later structured italian based gowns matched up with a few of my silk ones that are very light and easy to wear in warm weather. It would probably take one or two simple tudor gowns depending on how many I can make before August.

So many possibilities and so little time,

Lady Mairin

Garb and Embroidery

A few new garments for events I have procured recently. These are purchases but I have plenty slated garb and fabric for new creations. Going to make proper custom patterns from canvas and keep them as my pattern and will size them to my new shape. So lots of planning before I start making. Good news my sewing machine is repaired and working well. Hope to get things rolling on more Tudor based gowns, excited to get back to basics. Will need garb for Pennsic, so time to Tudor basic kirtles. Picked up fabric for making bodices and mix and match skirts. Want to take my time and find the appropriate materials so I can make very breathable. I am considering a few Italian gowns besides some English ones too.

Found this painting but its slightly post period about 1610-1620. Though I like the Blackwork embroidered waistcoat, its edged in coral silk ribbon and matched with a similar skirt. So something for fun but not A&S at this point. Its lovely thought, any excuse to make this lined in coral silk is good for me. With the outfits I want to make for Pennsic. I wanted to make a few light weight waistcoats they are very flattering. Plus I could make them with detachable sleeves. So as you can see a lot of good ideas floating around in my head.

On the embroidery front steady progress on goldwork. I am also working on planning for my next projects. Wanting to do some embroidery for the kingdom so that will take away from my personal work but well worth the delay. So here are a few pictures of recent projects that I have completed recently. I topped my trunk with stuffed embroidered top cushion. Made shoe rosettes to make them more period styled. So little things but looking for period correct small projects for some evening projects. So I have a few in mind, will see if they will work out.

So here are some pictures of recent purchases.

  

   

And for fun a small poem based on warm kitty poem, just because ;-)

Soft Garb, Warm Garb,

Snug, Silky, Shiny

Happy Garb, Sleepy Garb

Pearl, Pearl, Pearl.


Smiles,

Maureen

Gifts and Talents

I have this uncanny ability at finding items that possibly could make good garb. I ran across this 12% silk velvet jacket on eBay. Looked at it and said to myself that would make a really cute ladies doublet. Proceeded to purchase the item which was very inexpensive. Received it quickly and tried it on which it was an extra small. I was not certain with the way it was advertised,whether or not it would fit. It fit perfectly it was a little bit loose for what would be the measurements of my corset self.

Before as original garment

So proceeded to take the modern out of this garment. I seam ripped front pockets because there would be no pockets on the garment like this. After doing so and sewing up the seams. I was able to use the material from the pockets and make little guards for the tops of the sleeves. I took off the buttons off at the front of the jacket and the sleeves. Proceeded to paint the edges with gold paint to make them look more like a Renaissance style button. Then use a slightly lighter colored silk ribbon, attached it to where the button closures would have been. Using the buttons as accent going down the front of this doublet. I do still have two buttons leftover that are the larger variety and trying to decide if I am going to use them on this garment still?

During pocket removal

Have to add hook and eye closure is on the inside edge of this garment to make sure that there is a sturdiness to it. The silk ribbons certainly could tie the front of this, however they would be putting a lot of stress and warp the silk. So it is better off that I use hook and eye closures that can take some of the pressure off of the decorative ribbons. I figured that this jacket which features a peplum style skirting on the bottom, makes it almost look like a fitted ladies doublet jacket. As well as I want to add boning to the inside lining of this jacket to give it some stiffness and rigidity.

After modification and decoration.

 basic flash light.

 worn in warm light

Tightened up the fit around the waist when I handsewn some of the seams with a small pleat. So next is to try this on with a matching silk taffeta skirt that I had made all by hand. I still have as of yet to him this particular skirt. And I am uncertain if I want to do anymore decorating on this garment yet. I was thinking that if I do add anything it's either going to be more gold metallic or black. Just to give it a little bit of interest. However I want to look at finishing techniques and decoration techniques on lady style doublets before Adding any further decoration. This would definitely count as a gentle ladies jacket at this point. So it just really depends if I want to make it more court like or more upper-
middle-class.

For certain adding the boning on the inside lining, and adding small beads to the ends of the silk ribbon to keep from fraying. Need to add some trim around the waist line and the bottom seam of the peplum to cover up the lines from the pockets. It's all in how I want to decorate it. So many wonderful options yet, I will definitely make a decision because I'm consider wearing this over the
weekend. I plan on matching this up with a black worked coif, a velvet riding hat with feathers, and matching it up with appropriate dark color jewelry. Which will show up nice against the velvet.
Will post pictures when the ensemble is complete.


Well back to it,

Mairin

Glitter and Shine

Finally had time to sit and embroider the goldwork on my coif. Its by no means complete, though progress has been made. I have the whole bottom row scroll designs complete. I have the second row almost done, four more scrolls designs to do on this row. I post pictures showing the sparkly progress.  I want to be half way done by the end of the weekend. Here's to a goal! The early work schedule is good, it to gets me home sooner to have a smidgen of a social life. Had a bad week of divorce hang ups, tablet screen breaking, and some minor inconveniences. Its ok will be able to take my stress away on my Saturday yoga session. Was great to spend some of Valentines with my sister. Bought some new Magic the Gathering cards and see if I can enhance my decks. So have find time dig through them and come up with' a stradgedy for a deck or modify the others I have made a set or two back.

Sort of Valentines gifts to myself, bought new boots my ones have gotten too loose in the calves to be wearable. Though I am happy to get new ones that fit snugly. Got them cheaper than the prices found online. Two sweaters with laces on the back, one in blue and one in green. Plus its better to try them on, sizing on clothes and shoes not standard through the fashion industry. Would like to make this my life goal, but no influences on modern fashion industry. Darn!

Bought new tablet with word processing capability and storage I can do research papers on it. Worth the extra money spent for Bluetooth and the other features plus a larger screen. Not sure what to do with my broken one, will have to see what I can do with it. Maybe get it repaired. Lots of cat socialization this week. Which they deserve so much more of my time, than they receive. So a nice relaxing weekend until the pipes at my house frozen with the cold weather.  So that did take up time but was able to get things thawed for the most part. Some house chores to do and  more embroidery to relax to make more pretty things to wear.

Well back to it,

Mairin

Arachne`s Curse

Well been busy but been an weaving based educational few days. Bought a new Lucet made from cow horn. Its much smoother working with silk than my wooden Lucet. I am going to sand my wooden one to get out the snags and burs in the arms. Its smooth but silk is just fine enough to catch in some of  the natural edges of the white oak. It does well with cotton but the silk catches.

I finished my lavender yarn belt off my tablet loom. Not certain what I am going to do with it yet, but it was good practice to get better.

Restrung it with white silk to weave a white band. These bands were used with dress hooks to hold up tudor skirts and seen in many different reference paintings. One namely the drawing of a Flemish lady by Hans Holbein.

This gentle lady is the main inspiration for my persona, though she is flemish and my persona is Irish.  The garb reminds me of something elegant yet functional Lady Mairin would wear and the time period is right.its my inspiration to make a second attempt at making this total outfit.


So I know a source for the hooks from a Scadian artisan, so now to weave the bands. I am detangling some of the string from the first stringing of silk. So I can string a second loom later.  Not sure if the bands are one continuous band or two around the arms. Not way of telling, not many portraits from the back.
   
Bought the book on Sweet Bags book, been eyeing for sometime.  Its as good as people have recommended. Have to read more to figure out what extent design I want to try. I haven made progress on the goldwork for the coif since Sunday. Don't think i will have time his weekend either but will try to squeeze in time to work on it.  Found some new garb inspirations and these two gowns are on the never ending garb list.

Garb Dreaming,

Mairin

Lucet

Here are a few of my attempts at lucet cord making. First is learning the the technique with using shoelace cord. This allows me to work with a thickness that is easy to handle and learn about tension, methods,and handling the lucet prong.



The second attempt is with thick crochet

cotton. Made 59 inches of cord in a few days. This helped me develop the speed learn to unweave mistakes and learn more about tension on a finer thickness. I am not sure what to do with this length but certain it will go to good use. Most likely lacing for one of my gowns.

Lastly is the attempt in a fine period material, silk. In white and seeing how this texture weaves up. Which proved to be finer than the cotton. This is going to be the final result for the coif, since it is the appropriate material for a draw string on such a garment.


I have another length of silk at home that I am considering using for chord. However I'm not exactly sure the thickness that it will creates once woven. Its on my lucet to do list. Also wanting to learn about other weaving techniques. Many wonderful uses for all this cord in Tudor and Elizabethan clothing.

Weaving away,

Maureen

Taking a Bite Out of the Big Apple

Had a whirlwind excursion to New York City on Saturday. Planned a trip, my sisters and I, to go see the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Besides seeing all of the wonderful items that they have at the museum, we made a stop to the American Girl store for my sister to pick up a doll she wanted to purchase. Made me think about how much fun it would be to get one of the 18 inch dolls and dress it up and Tudor an Elizabethan clothing. The closest one they have is a colonial doll that is retired. We took a stroll along Central Park, which is near the museum. Then proceeded to get dinner at Hard Rock Café and visit other stores a long Time Square. So I very productive and fun trip. We are planning on other trips in the future, however I think it's going to take us at least four trips to do and see most of the other sites we want to see.


While my feet were recovering from all of the extra walking we did on Saturday, Made some small progress on my coif project. I decided to put the lace on the edges ahead of time and markout a small bit of seam allowances for when I have to cut out the project. And I'm starting to fill in the goldwork along the bottom edge which is taking some time. I have also taken up learning lucet. Is a form of medieval cord making that helps one make drawstrings. I decided that I wanted to make about a 24 inch length worth of cord so I can use that as a drawstring on the back of my coif.

I've noticed that it's a little easier and making the cord when using string that's a little thicker. I started with shoelace because that was easy to work with. However I tried using some thick crochet string and that proved to be much more challenging with keeping all the tension correct. So I need to find a thickness between crochet thread and yarn. In order to make my drawstring easier to weave. While being able to have it small enough to go through the drawstring channel on the back of the coif.


Lastly, I picked up a few books from the Metropolitan Museum of art shop.

received one that was part of a exhibition from earlier that was on clearance in regards to miniatures for five dollars. Purchased one in regards to unicorn tapestries that I've tried to get at SCA auctions and was not able to obtain. And I got a small book of hours referencing medieval manuscripts, and another on calligraphy and illumination design.  Hoping to find inspiration not only to do calligraphy and illumination, but also seeing if this might be a wonderful art form to do in needlework as well.  So there's a lot of good information and much more reading that I will have to do in regards to these books. But that is at my own leisure.

In the meantime trying to focus on finishing up current projects in progress. And trying to find time and do planning for future projects. It's a never-ending process however it is always a good process. I have some documentation that I want to read in regards to some research for ice Dragon. I'm not exactly sure whether not I can have a project or research completely written by then but I am going to certainly try.

Well better get back to work,
 Mairin