Monday, November 4, 2013

Pocket Paradigm


Embroidered Appliqués
     Well I had a very productive weekend, despite being on call.  I have finished my pocket and I wanted to elaborate more on all of the work that I have done. It's time to get my work on the erect projects completed to be documented.

     I started with a linen base on my pocket which was made with a running stitch. The shape of a pocket traditionally is pear shaped. Mine is shield shaped, compared to the traditional. I wanted to go with something that had a longer top edge so I have an easier time putting a drawstring it though the top to be reinforced better. Though plans changed in the end on the strings. If I was sewing two corners, I wanted to really give it a little extra support in the pattern.
Linen base pocket

     I had made the original linen sometime ago and had not picked it up to do needlework, was going to make blackwork this originally. original in linen sometime ago. After having done some research even despite the pattern being a little bit different for my pocket. I will still wanted to use the linen that I already had. So I went to look and see if there was different types of materials I could use for the outside. And I found the documentation on Italian Soccici.

     Basically there wasn't any English version of these pockets until the 17th century. So the Italians were using a decorated pocket for ladieswear in the 16th century. I was basing my pocket on the extent example still exist, as well as a reference to a Italian fresco that shows a lady laundering items and has one of these pockets while she works.
Assembled Pocket with Embroidered Appliqués 

       After I studied the period examples, I looked at my stock of fabrics and chose the following materials; orange gold silk fabric and coral velvet fabric.  I had embroidery that I made on silk chiffon blend fabric and appliquéd it to the surface of my orange silk. Then I used the same unplied filament silk embroidery thread and made a border of floral accent in orange with a green herringbone stitch, where the velvet met the silk fabric. Then added pearls to the edges blending some into look like buds in the design.




The embroidery pattern is based from the painting of the Marchioness of Northampton; Helena Snakenborg circa 1569. This is the embroidery pattern that you see on her shirt in the painting, I enlarged it to look at the pattern. The  arrangement of the roses depicted is what I used as the basis of my embroidery pattern. It's an unplied filament silk embroidery on silk chiffon backing with fresh water pearl accents then appliquéd to the  pocket.
Added Appliqués and Pearls
       I had every intention of fingerloop braiding the tie strings and accents on this pocket. Unfortunately the unplied filament silk tangled as I was trying to create the fingerloop braiding. So I opted for a handmade version of some two colored twisted trim that you would generally use for edging and other purposes with garb making. I'm not exactly sure the time period in which this was created. I do know that you see similar treatments done for strings on 16th century purses and other accessories. In this case, this treatment worked really well with the silk and allowed it to slide past one another without tangling.
Completed Pocket

       What project would not be complete without pictures. I'm including that various
different photos  showing the progress that I had made despite working the weekend. Now to get the rest of it documented properly on paper  plus get the documentation done for the ruff and cuff suite as well as the gold work and pearled French Partlet.

Well that is it for now, I must get back to the mundane. I will be lining and adding the tie strings to my French partlet.

Until next time,

Mairin


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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry