Tuesday, February 5, 2019

Louise Juliana

The making is in process for the newest doll is on its way based on the portrait of Louise Juliana of Orange Nassau from 1582; the child is aged 6 The ornate doll she is holding has a gold and silver metallic under dress and white woven overdress with lace decoration on the open bodice. Ruff and cuffs and lace of a very delicate scale on the bodice. Love the headress for this doll and plan on using more of my own hair for the wig since it will be the right color.


Currently sculpting the hands and head features on an maple wood artist form. Found several of those from Germany and Holland circa 1530 and 1535. Now these artist figures seem to made both male and female. Although  they are normally not clothed due to the study of the human forms. As the jointed wooden forms do go back to period, I am using them as a different base besides the multi media stuffing fabric and wire or cloth covered wire body. Since the research is more fruitful as I continue I am presented with more options in the making process. I have some time constraints and making sure the process is still documentable but have to hasten it up a bit. Need to sinch time from one year per doll to a few months. So dedicated time for more crafting and much more documenting is a goal for 2019.
With many local antique stores in Lewisburg, I located great velvet ribbon to help enhance the color of the white jacquard silk. Seems the little headdress or hat will be enhanced with the grey velvet will be looking for white and great feathers for this as well. Making a belt as a practice piece for the Or Nue technique of couching the gold and silver threads with a tassel end. Procured a few different kinds of metal threads, so working them together to see about making a neat effect. The base pieces for the sleeves. I will need to put the skirt piece on a frame to make the working of the under dress easier.

The silk has a finish on it that smells like crayons. Although it’s more the chemically smell of crayons, guess it’s a finishing on the silk to keep the proteins protected. It gives me a headache some days, so I switch off between the Or Nue and sewing the outter  dress. So progress either way.

So here are some picture of doll progress and the inspiration doll to commit to memory.

A Busy Bee,
THL Marrin O’Kealy
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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry