Sunday, December 13, 2020

Dastardly Doll Project- Hats



As the DD project is winding down, it’s time to finish the details. Specifically the hats. There are two hats that the inspiration portrait shows. A coif/ caul like hat on the back of the head in red fabric that has contrasting slashing with a bilament puffed edge. Add to there is a black tall hat with red and white plumes and matching hat band to the rest of the ensemble. 

For this I will be creating both as they are both shown

in the inspiration portrait. Took spare woven silk scraps from the gown and made a Juliet cap interlined in green wool. Made sure it would sit on the back of the head.  The green wool contrasted the red fabric, so the slashing showed the difference in color. I added center beads in the slashed designs and took some thin silk and made the puffed edge with more of the same beads for bilaments. Lined the pillbox hat in red silk taffeta as a finishing touch. 

Then I took my cotton black velvet fabric, pleated it evenly on the cut edge the entire 3/4 yard length. I made an interlining out of felt cloth to 17” circumference and 5” tall open on both ends. I pleated the upper edge slightly put the pleated velvet over the fully open end and whip stitching the pleated velvet down to the felt. I gathered the top end and pulled the raw edge to the inside of the hat. I made a bag lining out of black silk taffeta and sewed the lining inside the velvet at the crown opening.
The brim has velvet on both sides and stitched it to the crown with a red hatband made from scrap red woven silk from the kirtle. With some beads that match the pill box. And 2 red two white plumes and some feather twists for interest in the hat band.

In the inspiration portrait, Lady Willoughby holds a split colored flower of white/red dianthus, same family as carnation. So I will see what I can find to replicate that flower. Too bad we can’t see the other hand in case she was holding something else.  I have details to finish but for most of the Dastardly  Doll Project is complete. In much appreciation to the process and the patience of others while this work was in stages of completion. Always Grateful, Marrin 


 

 


 


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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry