Sunday, August 1, 2021

Elizabethan Set of Stays

So I finally took the plunge and decided to make a set of stays. Specifically 1603 stays from Patterns of Fashion, also known as Queen Elizabeth I Effigy Stays. In the past, I didn't have the confidence to make this under support garment. I learned to make shirts, petticoats, kirtles and gowns with various accessories over my 16 years with my Tudor persona. When I would get a support garment like stays or corset, purchased off the rack from a custom seamstress shop online. I just wasn't brave when I started the SCA to dive into this realm yet. My sewing journey started in the SCA so that also was a factor, was lack of knowledge on clothing making and how to fit myself. Not any more, we are making a custom fit set of stays from scratch.

 

Its time to make the thing! I took in progress photos for your enjoyment. To preface this with some information on choices with this set of stays. I opted to make corded hemp as boning instead of reed or bents as known in period. I wanted something between buckram and reed. So I chose a thicker hemp cord. This is more a proto-type garment, as I plan on making reed stays in the future. I wanted to test the pattern and fit. Along with having a wearable mock up. That could be used for pattern adjustment later on. 

Started scaling up the gridded image from Patterns of Fashion 5. I made this from two pieces of medium weight natural linen, with hemp cord sandwiched between. This is as intended to be wearable and light shaping. The vintage singer machine made fine channels and ate through the cord with ease. After the pattern were cut 2 of each 6 pieces had to be stuffed with cord.for later. Stuffing the cord into the channels, I used a needle eyed crochet hook. Worked wonderful when it was in the middle of a channel to inch it along. Although the process was rough on the hands, they ache today.  Using red cotton twill tape as binding, also some linen tape to cover over the side back seam. Also the linen tape will act as reinforcement for that side back seam as well.

So here is the stays current state. All pinned and ready for finishing by hand. On the machined sewed parts I used Gutterman's cotton thread, as it doesn't fair well in sewing machines. For the hand finishing I am using linen thread 80/3 weight in natural and red made by Burnley and Trowbridge. The medium weight linen is from a second hand fabric seller from a local shop. The cotton twill is from Joann Fabrics. The hemp cord is the largest sold at Walmart but also available in other craft stores jewelry section. The linen tape for the side back seams is from  ladydotcreates a seller on Etsy.  


I hope to update on this once its able to be worn, to show the fit, the flat measurements allow for about 2" of reduction. Hoping to get more details once I get to try it on. Well it fits and closes but it’s a tad too tight fully coded so a gap will help and spiral lacing helps too. The laces are linen lucet cord I made a few years ago. 
Do the thing, even if its scary,
Marrin 





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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry