Saturday, June 22, 2024

Firebrand French Hoods


So I took some time on Friday and went to go see the Firebrand. Which is a screen adaption of a book Queens Gambit. It follows the last queen of Henry the eighth, Catherine Parr. In particular, her Leanings regarding her protestant faith. And working with the limitation that Henry the eighth was instilling being the head of the English church. In particular, the services were still in Latin the prayers were still in Latin. The only real difference in the church in England was the fact that Henry the king was in charge instead of the Pope in Rome. 

       
Catherine and her Protestant leanings wanted prayers to be said in English. The protestants were pushing for the services to be said in English. The full translations of the Bible in English in particular. This was leaning on the belief that there should be no one between a person and their God, not even the king. The idea of talking and praying directly to your chosen deity was a new concept during the 16th century.

         
While I always found the religious reformation an interesting occurrence during the reign of Henry the eighth, that’s not exactly the reason that I had decided to watch this movie. As you can see from the pictures that I have posted, the clothing is absolutely spot on. Including the jewelry, the four sleeves, all the layers on the ladies, clothing and layers on the men’s clothing for that matter.

Real fur was used on the sleeves and collars on several garments throughout the film. The costume designer did mention that old fur coats were cut up for the fur features on the clothing in the film. So it wasn’t new pelts that were used in the creation of the 16th century Tudor clothing. My particular focus in this post is actually going to be on the absolutely correct use of French hoods in a costume drama film!

Firstly, We can see the layers that are known to be used in French hoods. We have a coif as the underlayer, then the silk paste with bilament jewels on a strip of velvet then a silk or velvet veil attached to the back of the paste. A chin strap on the paste holds it in place. The picture below you can see each part as they make up the hood in total. 


I also enjoyed the black velvet paste with veil seen below. These are simple and elegant and I have plan on making one on silk velvet and another in silk damask. Also love the white linen veil on the other character. Really pretty wired front that can be shaped. This is the beginning of the heart shaped coifs in the mid 1540’s.


I am so happy to see so many outfits pulled directly from Holbein portraits for both men and women in this film. As a recreationist of the period, a reasonable portrait accuracy is my goal in making clothing. I might not nail it for specific person. Although I want to look like I stepped from a portrait of someone from the Tudor period. 

So my goal for the fall when my next SCA events I am attending. Will be to have some new hoods with the interchangeable parts as seen in these reference photos from  the film. I have the fabrics I am just looking for the jewels bilaments. Which I ordered from Truly Hats. 

So back to the hood, 

Mairin 
 

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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry