Sunday, December 22, 2024

Zebellino Renaissance Fur

 

Extant bejeweled enameled decorative head

Zebellini or plural Zebillino are Marten weasels that have a decorative head and claws. Those items were normally engraved, enameled and bejeweled with various gems these were made of gold worked by a goldsmith. Kept by Renaissance women as fertility symbols. Also as a means to show status wealth and for warmth. As during this time gowns could be fully lined in fur for winter and chilly climates.
 A full length Zebellino 

As per medieval lore, the weasel was thought to reproduce through their ears. Thus making them an easily reproducing member of the weasel family. Granted science knows now that they reproduce through sexual organs as all normal mammals do.   such a gift would be ideal for a housewife or member of a Noble family. 
I did notice that not all have the bejeweled heads and feet. Somewhere left in their natural taxidermy state. Or wear some form of collar or muzzle over the natural head.

Zebellino goldworked head with chain

In this particular post, I wanted to show a few different varieties of how these were depicted in portraiture. They are only seen with women in the portraits, not with any men. These women tend to be noble class and higher 

Decorative head and claws decorated with chain

They seem to have a plain gold head, shaped like the creatures natural features without fur. It looks like diamonds were used quite a bit in the decoration, For those that did use jewels. Those appear black as they are not set in such a way to reflect light. A heavier chain like leash is normally attached to the head. This would be for ease of wearing the fur around one’s shoulders or attaching to a girdle belt.


While researching many portraits for these furs. I noticed that there was some that were open on the belly, and that the pelt inside was covered with a silk lining. I found this version less often, as most of the others being held in hand seem to be a fur that had the belly intact, and were not spread open as a full pelt.

 While I am not a Goldsmith, I can do a little bit of sculpting to create clawed feet with air dry clay and will cover those with gold leaf.  I happen to find foam taxidermy heads that are going to work beautifully for all of the detail, then some glass eyes. The foam version will be a little bit lighter as compared to an air dry head, which will create extra bulk on that end of the fur. Granted, even with a small gold head, that would be quite heavy as well. Heads were hollow, so the head of the pelt could be shoved inside

The decisions will be made when creating my version, to jewel or not to jewel. I did recently procure some ouches for making billaments for some French hoods. I am going to have to make a decision as to using maybe some on this project. I also decided to use a fox fur instead of a marten, Mainly for the sake of expense of trying to buy new. While I do have some vintage martens, they are not in good shape. I don’t want them to fall apart from wear  update it’s looking good just have some do some finishing  touches and then attach to the fur.


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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry