Sunday, July 23, 2017

The Power of Silk

An update is needed on my work that has been made since AEcademy. So here it goes: finally purchased the silk dupioni from Joann's I have been scouting it out for the last year.  Wanted to be able to source proper period material for English kirtles. This is one of the few times in my Sca career, it was within budget and jumped at the chance to have period materialed kirtles. Planned on 4 kirtles in different colors but I found one more color so making 5 at once.

I do this kind of production based work to make sure I have enough for many events. Planning on having these for a while and to keep my size as close as I can currently. Which my measurements seem a good consistency for the past year to be able to redo my garb. Will be selling off many larger sized pieces of garb to loving homes....so stay tuned if you would be interested in adopting a gown. As soon as the new kirtles are finished will show pictures, it takes a while when handsewing it all.

Here is a photo for color and texture in the meantime, these are finished pleated skirts with waistbands to the left of this paragraph. Had the silk surveyed by a fellow Scadian, who makes silk clothes mundanely. We are both thrilled with the consistency and rare to very mild slubbing in the material. So its good quality silk for a great price for the weave that was advertised. The colors to the left present as follows; spring green (top), mauve shot with black (2nd from top), Magenta shot with red (3rd from top), royal blue (4th from top) burgundy red shot with black (bottom)

Was worried about the spring green and magenta would be too bright. Though they just fall within the ranges of color, in the Tudor Tailor for natural stuffs for the color chart. So the Tudors could get some good color saturation even with hand dying. Its so nice to have great sources to help make informed choices for planning stages.


 So using the fitted pattern to make proper kirtles for around 1550 English, time for the style I'm depicting.  Drafted it from the Tudor Tailor, the pattern for my first red silk taffeta kirtle from earlier posts. Using this same pattern for these next 5 kirtles. Coordinating sleeves are planned for a middle but more gentry class woman. Months ago in January, worked on these sleeves imaged to the left. They are all complete with  hooks at the top for attachment to a kirtle or gown.

Running the math, very pleased that I have 45 different configurations with these sleeves to show some wardrobe power of variety. No getting bored with silk here ;-)

Speaking of  Power, came up with a powerhouse idea that just struck me the other day. A reasonable way of displaying my awards in a more inconspicuous way than a belt favor or necklace/ medallion...... An apron! I plan on making a flat front English apron and will make reasonably sized but not larger than half dollar patches. Since I tend to wear an apron often, this is also a reasonable persona driven choice. Will eventually embroider patches for the corners to show the awards currently obtained and leaves some choices for future ones.

Its not meant to be ostentatious but rather a solution to a period and Scadian problem. For myself, I forget my medallions at home and don't want to look like Mr. T with necklaces galore. Besides this apron, I also have had brooches made as another variant. So depending on how ones wears their garb and accessorizes, there are ways of making this unique and fun. Wanted to put this out as food for thought.

Doll update: still working on lace to complete the next doll in the collection. Though layering projects helps me focus, the change of what I look at regularly keeps me driven to complete projects. Variety being the spice of life. Will post more on the lace when it looks more like a pattern.

Keep on stitching,

Marrin O'Kealy

No comments:

Post a Comment

Peacock

Peacock

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Stained Glass

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty assocated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 6 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 80% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes, corset, stockings, and petticoats are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. Though someday I plan on making a reed corset and petticoat to wear under my gowns, as well as other accessories.

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown I plan on making and the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 10th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Six Wives of Henry VIII

Six Wives of Henry VIII

King Henry VIII's Wives in Sequential Order

King Henry VIII of England 1491-1547


Queen Catherine of Aragon 1485-1536Divorced,


Queen Anne Boleyn 1501-1536 Beheaded,


Queen Jane Seymour 1508-1537 Died.


Queen Anne of Cleves 1515-1557 Divorced,


Queen Catherine Howard 1525-1542 Beheaded,


Queen Catherine Parr 1512-1548 Survived.

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Queen Elizabeth I Coronation Portait

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Queen Elizabeth's Prayer at Bristol August 15,1574

Stretch forth,
O Lord most mightie,
Thy right hand over me,
and defend me from mine enemys,
that they never prevayle against me.

Give me, O Lord,
the assistance of Thy Spiritt,
and comfort of Thy grace,
truly to know Thee, intirely to love Thee,
and assuredly to trust in Thee.

And that as I do acknowledge
to have received the government
of this Church and Kingdom at Thy hand,
and to hold the same of Thee,
so grant me grace, O Lord,
that in the end I may render up
and present the same again
unto Thee, a peaceable, quiett,
and well-ordered State and Kingdome,
as also a perfect reformed church,
to the furtherance of Thy glory.

And to my subjects, O Lord God, grant,
I beseech Thee, faithful and obedient hearts,
willingly to submit themselves to the obedience
of Thy word and commandments,
that we altogether being thankfull unto Thee
for Thy benefitts received, may laud and magnifie
Thy Holy Name world without end.

Grant this, O merciful Father, for Jesus Christ's sake,
our only Mediator and Advocate.

Amen

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor Gown

Side of Purple Velvet Ermine Fur Tudor  Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Red Velvet Elizabethan

Red  Velvet Elizabethan

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Lady Willoughby

Lady Willoughby

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Elizabethan Pregnancy Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Black and Coral Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Peach Elizabethan Noble

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Mauve Waistcoat Elizabethan Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Jane Seymour Gown

Jane Seymour Gown

O'Cadhla Heraldry

O'Cadhla Heraldry

Catherine Parr Gown

Catherine Parr Gown

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla
A Proper Gabled Hood

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon

Princess Mary Tudor and Charles Brandon
Duke and Dutchess of Suffolk

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Mairin O'Cadhla Heraldry

Embroidered Waistcoat over Elizabethan Gown

Embroidered Waistcoat over  Elizabethan Gown

Queen Mary I of England

Queen Mary I of England

Tudor Rose

Tudor Rose