Sunday, April 19, 2020

Masterwork is Afoot


Full and 1/2 Scale Mannequins/ Dolls in Fashion

With all the new information I have available at my fingertips with the Foundations Revealed membership. I have so many projects in my head to try, although small scaled projects are my jam (Ms. Banner credit for her phrase). This was definitely worth the membership to just have all this great material to read. Plus a forum to ask questions, work on projects, and get feed back. Which in the end helps me to better improve my project planning, pattern making and overall costuming knowledge. In the planning and gathering materials phase at this time, which will be longer since travel is mitigated and the mail does take time.

1/4 scale model of Eleanor of Toledo
Italian Gown From Patterns of Fashion
The School of Historical Dress.
Back to Topic at hand, I noticed that several people try 1/2 scale paper patterns and eventually make miniatures fabric toiles to better understand the shapes and pattern behavior before working on a full scale clothing piece. Not sure if this practice comes from fashion school teaching, or if its roots go back much further. In some images of recent classes given at the School of Historical Dress, they seem to also use this method to help the students understand the shapes they are using and how they are supposed to behave. I love looking at all the pictures of the half scale work in the classes and want to better try my hand at it. They were scaling patterns up from Patterns of Fashion 3 and 5 by Janet Arnold.

Archduke Albert of Bavaria
Doll in the V&A
There was a project the School of Historical Dress did back in 2016 making 1/2 scale dressed dolls, representing Archduke Albert of Austria and Archduchess Isabella Clara Eugenia. These were hand-carved in lime wood (linden for the American version). The styling of the clothes were about 1615 and made from materials appropriate to aristocrats of the early seventeenth century. Skin out dress in separate layers. Linen smock, a satin pair of bodies, satin sleeves, Spanish farthingale, Velvet forepart, velvet gown for Isabella. Albert has a linen shirt, satin doublet, woolen hose and velvet cloak. Each doll also has to scale set of appropriate leather shoes. Truly little works of art made possible by a grant from the Early Dress and Textiles Network from the Arts and Humanities council and the doll are in the Learning Department of the V&A. 

Archduchess Isabella Clara Eugenia
Doll in the V&A
For someone who makes dolls like myself this is a curious cross over from doll scale to human scale.   I have one book An Illustrated Guide to the Dolls as used in Fashion that references large scale models life size sent commissioned by one Royal and consequently sent to another royal of a different court in the 1490's. Later these similar life size dolls to the Americas from France in the 18th century to allow women to rent the mannequin/ doll and take to to a tailor to order a dress to be made. When the gown was complete the doll/mannequin would be brought back from someone else to rent. I don't think this method of traveling fashion was created over night in the 18th century. This was evident of the trade of fashion dolls among the royal fashion elite of Europe since pre-16th century. Evidence of the inventory of Henry Viii, Inventory of Catherine de Medici, Inventory of Marie Queen of Scotts, and references in Inventory of Queen Elizabeth. 

Fashion Dolls were used to show fashions in a particular season on regional areas, used by royalty for gifts in conjunction to alliances and marriage contracts. Although this source is the only one that talks about size. Queen Elizabeth Wardrobe Unlock'd references fashion dolls and has a quote from the Mistress of the Queens Wardrobe at the time Elizabeth Von Snakenborg to her sister on the continent. Plus it reference the Extant one in the Royal Swedish Armory but that is a much smaller one. The image of the portrait painting of Arabella Stuart age 2 from Hardwick Hall, holding her fashion doll. Although no reference to size is made in this area of the book.

In order to safely allow the layers to be removed, as this was a question in my last judging of my doll in the Kingdom Arts and Sciences Competition. A larger scale some thing 1/4 of 1/2 scale would need to be considered. I could make full scale but I want this more to be a doll than a mannequin. Although I feel any tailor worth their salt could take a pattern from a 1/2 scale and make it larger and make all the necessary adjustments to fit a person. Portability also needs to be taken in account. It would have been expensive to ship fashion dolls full size, although its been done according to my source.

The wooden dolls would have not been made by the tailor themselves. As the Guild system in Europe and England are well established now but were slightly at infancy in the late Medieval times. Each skilled job had a guild and there are new one made in England today. The dolls would have been commissioned from a trained woodworker of skill and warrant. So references to size; 1/2 scale would be 36" tall, 1/4 scale would be 18" tall. So the next dolls will be of considerable size. 

Yes I will be making the wood doll from scratch by my own hand. At this point in my gathering, I have a later pattern wood doll for reference. Although a jointed doll would have been needed to dress easier than just non jointed. So some newer skills will be on show besides my sewing embroidery, wig-making, painting and the like. I am gathering my hair for the wig as well. Woodworking/ woodcarving a new skill will be on display.Now to figure out the kind of likeness I want to make pre-16 England. This will also end up in the book of Dolls, because it has to have all the scales. 

Time to create the Masterpiece, 

THL Marrin O'Kealy

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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry