Wednesday, July 23, 2025

Spinning All The Fiber


When I am not working on dolls or making my own garb or garb for other people. One of my side arts and science’s project is fiber arts. When I originally learned to spin, I started on wool mostly of a Corridale breed of sheep. Which is an Australian breed eventually I learned to spin Marino, which is an Italian breed of sheep. More recently I’ve learned to spin shetland wall because it would’ve been available back in the 16th century and would’ve been a Scottish import.

Breed a sheep or something that happened after the timeframe I like to depict. Sheep are particularly bread for the kind of wool staple length of their fleece. They have to be shorn in the spring every year because the fleece does not fall out on its own due to the breeding. It’s the summertime now and even on Facebook marketplace I am seeing people who don’t sell their wool, trying to sell the fleeces unwashed to those who might actually use the wool.  While I have purchased dirty fleeces to wash and then spin, it is very labor intensive. Some people also spin in the grease as it’s called and then wash the wool after it’s created into yarn. I’m still trying to figure out which version would’ve been more accurate to the 16th century. I very carefully store mine in a dry temperature control basement and if it is dirty wool, I put it in plastic to at least keep it from making other surfaces greasy.

After I had truly gotten comfortable with spinning wool. I want to try other fibers to see how they behaved. Next moving onto flax as that was one of the more common fibers in the 16th century. This was normally used as your base layer of clothing against your skin. Regardless of social economic status, you were wrapped in linen when you were a baby and wrapped in a line shroud when you were dead. So this clothing made from plants was ubiquitous in the human experience.  I also found out that there is other plants besides flax that can be used to make linen fabric. Nettle or known as stinging nettle, bast fibers of the stem are harvested set to dry and then soaked to allow the outer shell to rot and the fibers to be released. Allowed to dry again and then manually beaten to slough off the outer shell of the stem. Bast fibers are the material that soaks up moisture, and brings it to the leaves and the top of the plant to allow photosynthesis. Through researching the history of plant fibers, I found out that there are many other plants that can be used to create fabric. Cotton, of course is the material around the seed pod. Jute, hemp, rayon known as cellulose,  are all bast fibers some are more processed than others to create the necessary fibers for spinning into yarn. There are plenty other plant fibers that can be used to create fabric and be spun into yarn. It was a very interesting to research from horticultural background, to find the various plants species that can be used for creating fiber for clothing production. Wetting the plant material does help release some naturally occurring mucus that the plant uses to hold together that also will hold the yarn fibers together. This was a very interesting discovery while I was working with the various different kind of plant fibers

The most recent type of fiber I have been using is silk. I was finding the process of spinning, this fiber a bit more challenging. As the spindles I had were much larger and heavier, and were not allowing the fibers to pull apart as easily. I was able to learn from a fellow SCA person that I needed a smaller spindle so it’s fun faster to twist the fibers quicker. Which allowed me to draft the silk into the desired thickness and create a continuous unbroken thread. Which is always the goal when spinning to create a continuous unbroken thread the least amount of joins creates a very strong finish product. I’m noticing with silk in particular that I have to be very mindful of the tension when a join is present so it does not fall apart when I am trying to place it on the spindle for the next fibers to be drawn. 

Currently, I am spinning some silk handkerchiefs in multi colors to get the hang of the manual spinning process. So far so good I’m hoping that eventually I can create my own silk threads for sewing and embroidery from my silk spinning. Even if I’m able to weave a little bit for my own use would also be nice as well. It would end up being more narrow work than yardage of wider fabric.

Also something to do while people are at Pennsic war For the next two weekends.

Mairin

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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry