Partlet a la Francais

Francois Clouet drawing 

       I had made this weekend on projects. I finally completed my French renaissance partlet. It has gold and silver cord trim, purchased at Pillaged Village. I hand embroidered some gold and silver work in a lozenge pattern with freshwater pearls at the intersections. It is based on portraits of nobles from the French court from 1520-1560 by the artist Clouet.

      I have yet to write up my documentation on this project and have yet to do the same on my ruffs. It's hard sitting with  hubby since time is limited in the evening to be together. I still have work on details of this project. It needs to be lined which I do still have some linen to line it with. And I also have to attach some ribbon to the corners in order to have ties. I also need to fine jeweled clasps like on the front of this example Clouet drawing above left.

French Partlet Back

Front French Partlet

On ward to pockets now. I have orange gold silk for the top face of the pocket and I have another fabric for the bottom, most likely be cold lozenge fabric which I'm going to use also as an accent fabric for these fancier pockets. I have silk thread to attach everything together and then the inside is lined with the linen. I was also thinking of using my coral colored velvet as another alternative to make a different style of the Italian  pockets.

Hope to post more progress on the pockets as soon as I can. Have so many ideas on design it's hard to narrow it down. This is why I am doing more than one based on portraiture from the period. That will be more explained when I finally write up the research. I need to get these projects done ASAP and sent to a friend. Let's hope when they are done that they get a warm reception.

Back to the Grindstone,

Maureen

Lucy Locket's Pocket

Puff of Ruff

       Trying to find time to make projects tasked to me at coronation, a challenge is always a healthy endeavor. Needing to show more variety in in my SCA projects, so trying to keep it Elizabethan practical so here it goes. The first of three projects to get some variety sparking. Making a set of embroidered pockets, an embroidered partlet, and a suite of ruffs. So when I get these done, will post pics as I am today.

Front and Back

Still working on 16th century references to embroidered pockets, not much success that is English pockets. Some continental versions that are made from fancy fabrics and couched embroidery. Which is on the trail! There are period examples of separate pockets but they are mainly Italian and some Spanish references. Turns out in Italian they are called a soccacia, who knew. There are English references in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked to pockets she had made;. though they are period listings from her household and not much great detail is given other than fabric and color. No reference to decoration or use, which I am sure to an Elizabethan would be obvious. With the change vocabulary in our language its a bit murky. Some pockets referenced are matching fabrics from gowns also listed. Others are listings of many pockets made with no corresponding garment. My hypothesis is these separate pockets are made to go with many outfits separate of garments. I know from the foreign examples that the embroidery period extent pockets are a form of couching. Got to start from somewhere, so working on the historical origins of pockets to get a 16th century grasp.

This is the coif I want to embroider.

Found a nice pattern from an extant coif I want to emulate, it's really beautiful. I love the colors and pattern arranged on the coif. This one pictures to the left is in Patterns of Fashion 4. Its lovely!

Now to find time to make it;-) wish I could sew at work but between stops while driving is not advised. Plus my vehicle is a dirty utility work truck, would not want to put any light fabric in that vehicle. Let alone put any fabric at all in it for that matter.

Regal Ruff Pose

Work has been busy as expected, though adjusting. Plus getting speedier at my tasks which is making things simpler to complete. Now that things are completed, I should have more time to make  projects.

On the ruff front, I got the suite complete except for the closure. So here are the pictures. This is not starched or ironed so please forgive the unorganized look of my sets. I wanted to get something to a patient audience, since its been a long time since I posted. 

Lozenge Pattern Inspiration

In the meantime, working on a French Partlet with gold and silver embroidery. Taking a drawing by the French court artist Clouet, and using the gold-worked partlet lozenge pattern base with some trim and pearls. So here is to patience since working with metallic threads tangle so badly. I will have to work it all in small sections of thread to save the bunching.thinking backstitch is what will make a smooth delicate line on the linen. 

Will post progress as I get along in the projects. Maybe sometime before I post again. So I wanted to thank everyone for the support of the blog over the past few years. My readership has grown more than I could expect for the narrow topics covered. Another milestone 200 posts in this journey of costuming discovery!

No pictures of me from Fall Coronation, that is what I get for being fashionably late ;-) Youth activities went well, spent time breaking up arguments mostly. Felt like Judge Mairin most of the day, lol. Near by game room was a happening place all ages could work together to learn the many games shared. It was a bit chaotic at time but for the most part everyone just needed some chaperoning to keep younger ones in check. I want to plan more things to do for next time. FFF will have more than just playtime, got some good ideas for that one.

  I was made a seamstress of the court with my limited help with making items for their Majesties. They are so generous, and it was totally unexpected. The items made worked out well and are still loved and used, that was my goal. I received a little scroll that is beautifully calligraphed, no illumination but its not needed. My teacher Duchess Ilish was made on as well, though she did far more work and labor. Made their Majesties Coronation garb, it took most of the night before the big day. A very talented and dedicated tailor, and Their Majesties look perfect!

Well that is about it for now,

Mairin

Too Much of a Good Thing....

     Things have been crazy since, I took on my new job. No time to sew, no time with Justin, and little off to sleep and eat. Which is ok for now, overtime at a good rate is nothing to overlook. With Aethelmearc Coronation next weekend, I will have some pictures to post soon.

      Don't have much time to make anything lately, which has me in a creative craving lately. Though I am unclear on which project to finish or start next. I have a white and pink gown to make, an embroidered jacket to finish, make a proper gift for a close friend, and other pending projects.

Right now there is a lot of planning for the upcoming coronation. Looking at coloring on the morning, a crafts before and after Lunch then play till court. It's a nice schedule that is works well for most events. One thing I am certain, wearing my black silk and linen gown with ermine shoulder puffs. Will wear my whisk collar and I remade the net on the back of the hat. It's ornate beading and coloration accents the hat perfectly. It's time to finally show it off, want to look elegant and a bit understated to not outshine their majesties.

So far that is all that is going on now.

Maureen

Rapunzel, Rapunzel, Let Down your Long Hair...

To use up some fabric I had left over from my most recent projects, a gift from Lady Aibell Dimarta had me inspired. She found a lacy edged doll gown. Its looks like a Victorian nightgown, but also like Renaissance chemise ready to be matched with a a gown and something more grand. I did not know exactly how I was going to make the outfit. At the time had not clue about the accessories. Though I had lots of options to work with, which is always fun. Lets make something out of this baby doll clothing. At the time I was totally unsure of how the whole doll would look.

 So I knew of a blank muslin doll I could buy from one of my local craft stores that would really suit the bill. I am making a costumed doll and I am almost done, one problem she has no face. Until today that is, when I decided on brown eyes and larger features. I have a small section left of fabric that I am considering making fabric shoes to show as much fabric use as possible, its a only a 4 inch piece, so did really well with my goal of using the fabric.

She is going to be the princess Rapunzel from the fairy tales. I am thinking of having her be a reading doll prop for me. Thinking of story-time at SCA Coronation or for Rapunzel. I wasn't expecting the hair to turn out so nice, its artificial and from and existing pieces used for SCA events.. I got the hair pieces from Duchess Tessa, I liked it but thought it make a more striking appearance on my doll after I tried it on. Looked good but knew it would be very hard to not get unwanted attention at events well I do tend to make an entrance of sorts. 


Job update, I got my service vehicle on Friday after much rescheduling.  I am to work with a supervisor all this week and slowly incorporate skills and knowledge over the next 3 months. Pretty surprised at myself all the work I put in and did a hands on learning and fast paced. I pray to find something as nice of a  Slowly learning all the ins and out of my job, glad they try to be throughout and not to expect me to know it all in a week. Its sheer amazement still managed to sew something this week.

 Well back to it all,

Maureen

Goals & Improvements

Well I received my new corset in the mail.  Tried it on and fit perfectly, was unsure of the sizing by measurement would be right for me. Luckily my guess was correct. I took some more photos while wearing the corset to show how it looks under gowns as well as what it looks like with my other renaissance undergarments.

I want to thank my wonderful readers for all the page views. This blog has reached over 20,000 views this week, thank you! As a gift here are a selection of photos I took with the new under garments.

Humbled,

Mairin

Compare Contrast

 Wanted to give a side by side comparison, I think that even with my few changes it turned out really nice and a good tribute to the outfit in the painting. I like making gowns from paintings but this was a real challenge finding a suitable fabric, which was a find when I found it locally. This dress is very comfortable and I like the colors even more now that I have worn it. When I get my new corset I know that the profile will work better even than seen here in the photos.

 

  Actually both gowns are very nice and turned out gorgeous. I also made a gown out of the cream with gold brocade fabric that was a gift from Duchess Ilish O'Donovan.  The hood, foresleeves and foreskirt being the same fabric, I used the gold lozenge fabric, which I bought for $1, to make a matching trim on the gown. Which the result turned out beautifully. I like these shades than than I thought I would. They work well with my hair and skintone. Guess when you know you know, trust in instinct.

 I finally posted a collection on the previous post of new gown photos, as featured in this post. Couldn't get my phone to take good pictures without the photos eating up all my memory on that device. So still tried and true old Sony digital camera came through. Will have to see what I can do about this, the camera will stop working eventually and I will have to find a reasonable replacement.

Anyway I hope to post more photos soon, will depend on my work schedule and free time. Need to get picture of the brocade rose accent gowns. Which one is leaf green with white trim and the other is gold with red trim.  I have hats for these too, they are more of a general Renaissance style gowns, than from a particular European country. Specifically, I will see if I can 'style' them with accessories to make them more versatile from wearing to wearing. For now got to get back to chores and laundry.

Always a Busy Bee,

Mairin

Teal Pink and White Gown Gallery

Foresleeves, Foreskirts and Hoods, Oh My!

    Over the past day I did finish the velvet salmon colored foresleeves, they look gorgeous! Now on to to the foreskirt/underskirt. I make my underskirts versatile, I along with the Tudors, are big mix and match fans. Since the skirts I make are double faced, which is a non-period technique. Basically instead of using just one facing fancy fabric with a cheaper alternative fabric on the back side of the skirt. I use two fancier fabrics, one on the front and one on the back. Now this would be considered a modern costuming convention to save from making many individual foreskirts. This way I can get twice the use out of one skirt, it also saves space in crowded garb trunks as well.

    Drawbacks, if I decided to sell underskirts I have to sell ether two gowns that match the foreskirt and foresleeves or two foresleeves sets to got with the one skirt. Though this situation is resolved with my reduced selling of premade gowns and more emphasis on custom gowns.

     I do on occasion find that my thinking is inline with period techniques, which alot of methods are common sense. Others such as, meanings of words and other terminology; as well as translating old english language are a bit confusing, with the 500 year time gap and all. Though I surprise myself, with my similar Tudor thought process. In some respects, more than folks really give credit, we are closer to the Tudors than one thinks. My use of foreskirts is not a huge stretch from what they did in period. Everyone back then wanted to look as close to a higher class as they could get away with, which meant buying expensive fabrics and adornment. Though some lesser nobles had to choose carefully with the restrictions of sumptuary laws put out by the crown and the church. So today we can go and wear as we like, which is really a freedom they did not have in the 16th Century. I guess making gowns that have a similar color palate to back then is fun. Though modern reenactors/recreationists get to stretch the envelope so much more than Tudors ever could with our 500 year time advantage. Then there is accuracy and debates on technique, which I will leave for a another post.

    Formulating a plan of attack on making the French hood just like one in the painting for the teal gown. Though I am not going to use colored stones if I can help it on the biliment, the back edge of the hood. If I use just pearls and gold accents I can wear it with more sets of jewels than if I match it with specific colored gems. I have some beads that match the foresleeve beads and plan on using them to tie the French hood together with the foresleeves and foreskirt as a complete set.

    Sets are nice since you can match a hood, foresleeves and foreskirt and use them with more than one gown. The set I am making is also going to also be use with my Cream with Gold Brocade Tudor Gown, that I am working on simultaneously. The Cream with Gold Brocade Tudor gown does have pinkish with gold stones on it and will work great with the foreskirt set.


     Normally am not a huge color pink fan but I find that it suits my skin coloring well. If I go with more salmon, mauve, and shades of peach it really looks good on me. If I go to pale in shades it really washes me out, so I do pay attention to the shades I choose.  Its been fun to work with more unusual colorings in my wardrobe. If variety is the spice of life, bring on the spice!

     I am almost up to 20,000 views, thanks so much for the support over the years. If you are new consider following my blog, to get updated on the latest topics and pictures of my gown making adventures. Will post more pictures of my progress, plan on making a Tudor Garb Gallery with these two new gowns soon.

Sew Crazy,

Maureen

Here There and Everywhere!

I am working on this Gown currently

       Well its August and my time with working Security is winding down, my last day is Thursday two weeks away. Been reaching out to folks letting them know about the news, lots of folks are happy for me and are surprised I am going. one chapter closes and another opens. I start my new job on Friday and have been in constant contact with my new boss to keep the wheels rolling on my paperwork. Over the past week, I have been working on Pre-Employment tests and screenings with their respective appointments. Also received the welcome packet of paperwork filled out all the forms and mailed those back as well.

       So that has occupied alot of my time, though was able to find some time to work on sewing this weekend. After putting beaded decoration on some of my new gowns and boning on the front inside, I have been working on accessories lately.  I have some more of the velvet fabric cut to make salmon pink forelseeves and french hood. Which I can wear with the white and gold gown Tudor gown. I am thinking of using the wonderful fabric for the pink and White Italian too. There is plenty to use for the pink velvet to also work on a Pink Velvet and White Italian that is waiting to be made. So right now working on the current and planning for more wonderful gown selections for the future.


I am planning on makingt this gown

     I don't have much else planned right now since I am unsure of the amount of time I will be dedicating to my new job. As well the hours I will be working on a daily basis at this time is unclear until I start training at the end of this week. So I have been working in small projects as I find them and try to get them done.

     Worked more on the foresleeves last night and have a few butterfly appliques around the cuffs for interest. These appliques were left over from the Red and White Italian Gown project and Marionette puppet projects. This will be the last I will get to use them but its worth it. They were originally meant for my wedding veil but opted for another alternative.

Will post pictures when they are done and get pics of wearing some of my new creations. I hope to find time to do a picture fashion show for all to see the new creations. I have plans on Thursday to do this while I have a day off, as long as something doesn't come up for new job tasks. Until next time.

Sewing as Usual,

Maureen

Great Things Come to Those Who Wait...

Great things are coming, I could feel it in my gutt and for no reason from what I could tell. I didn't know what but I knew it was something good. I told a close friend this exact phrase in an email two weeks ago. Boy I was right! Out of the blue with no communication, I got a job offer from a pest control company for a pest technician job. My Jedi powers are stronger than I thought;-) This is the job that I will be my first salaried job. Myself will make in one year, what combined my husband and I make together at our current employment gross. So its going to be a major step up for Justin and I financially. I hope we can find something as great like this for him.

 Thrilled of course, I couldn't be more pleased and accepted the offter. I am currently working with my new boss to get my old paperwork current, filling out information for various checks and employment tests done. We are thinking that my start date will not be till the 2nd week in August depends when all the results come back. I did inform my current employer but have yet to get an official start date, so I am waiting to get that all finalized. They are appreciative of the notice so they can start looking. I hope I get some more information soon, want to get the ball rolling ASAP.


On the sewing front, I am working on the Teal and Coral Tudor gown and almost done with the outter gown its looking very close to the portrait. Bought some more boning to stiffen bodices, I am going to sew some in the Gold and White Tudor Gown too. So I really think it will give it some pizazz and definition. When they are complete with beading I will post photos and of them on here along with the Renaissance Red Velvet and Gold Brocade Gown, Renaissance Green Brocade White Velvet Gown, and the three embroidered lace cauls just completed. I hope soon I will have lots to take pictures of new gowns to make a feast for the eyes.

Speaking of gowns with the new job I will not be able to devote time to making gowns as much as before. Which it will be nice not to depend so much on gown sales to make income for the household. So any project progress will be slow for me and custom orders will take alot longer to complete. I may work 60 hour weeks being on salary with my new job so its important to focus on my new employment for now. Though custom orders are open for those interested please contact me via email faerydustcollector@gmail.com

Thanks a gain to all my dedicated followers to this blog, your feedback is valuable to keep this fresh and interesting. Over 19,000 views, 16 followers, and over 190 posts later we are still going strong!

Appreciative,

Lady Mairin