In Love... With Books

Looking at the various different types of embroidery out there. I am focusing on new techniques, new materials, and interesting compositions and design layout for inspiration. And I have come across this wonderful book as a suggestion. This comes from online costuming friends who do various time periods of embroidery.

The Complete Book of Stumpwork embroidery by Jane Nicholas is a really fantastic guide to show how to create stumpwork type of embroidery. Stumpwork is a type of 3 dimensional embroidery that occurs in England from about 1650 throughout the 1700s. It builds upon various techniques and stitches from crewel embroidery. Like the buttonhole and detached buttonhole stitches, goes from there and takes it to a new level with adding different materials focusing on three dimensional aspects and texture.

Not only is the book showing you how to create different types of animals plants and flowers, it also shows you various different designs.  From simple small compositions that would make great gifts with embroidering the name of the recipient, to larger compositions that take on a tapestry like feel.  There are many projects shown in this book, there's a list of materials needed for each project, and it goes over the techniques on how to create the project step-by-step.  Love books laid out well showing you exactly how to make the projects that occur in the book. I really look forward to seeing more work from this author.  I found out that this manual is a combination of two different books; one focusing on Medieval flowers and the other one focusing Medieval fauna. These two books were created a paperback format previously they combined them together and put them in a complete manual.

In creating my polychrome embroidered jacket,  I worked with various buttonhole stitches to create levels of texture, and build up upon different levels and different stitches. This takes that and really runs with texture and dimensions. I may be using some of the techniques in very small applications on my jacket, stumpwork would be very hard to wear. Due to the three dimensional aspect, it could get snagged often on a garment-based project and destroy the embroidery or garment. So I will most likely use some of the beading techniques or maybe a few berries for interest but I won't be using three-dimensional leaves or other elements because of the snagging problem. So this gives me a lot of  information and inspiration to continue with more fascinating needlework!

Embroidering like Mad,

Mairin

Reworking with Coincidence

Originally planning to attend War Practice, though a pre-scheduled work business trip has gotten in the way. I received some fantastic feedback with my work last year. This year I will have to send some of my items with friends for the Arts and Sciences display. I wanted to teach as well at this event, though that is foiled with the work trip, maybe next year.

Since I will be going away for work in May, been formulating a way to bring my polychrome embroidered waistcoat with me, so I can work on it with downtime in the evenings. Been working on it every evening right now, taking out machine stitching and replacing it with woolen embroidery stitches all the way around all the pattern pieces. It is looking much better and much more organized. I didn't realize when I had bought the trim for the jacket that it matches one of my Elizabethan gowns perfectly! So I am going to wear this dress underneath my jacket and I really believe that it's going to just accent each other beautifully. Showing the photos to see how extremely close the color match shows. Even with the lights and darks of the silk fabrics playing on each other these were never intended to go together, though it's fantastic that they do!

With the Ice Dragon feedback I know the areas of improvement and am reworking techniques and methods now so the projects will be better examples of my work. I am disappointed I will not be there to field questions. Though it's important to share my work with others, I use all the trial and error with my many projects as a learning lesson. For me it's easier to learn from creating, I sometimes make my best discoveries about textiles and fiber arts.

I recently had found out that there was some new literature, not known about on the polychrome embroidered jackets. It was in a series of individual subject booklets called the complete anachronist, published through the SCA. I had gone through the long list of topics, there happens to be many a useful topic. I inherited a handful of these from a friend, and was able to complete my Elizabethan  embroidered gloves using one of these little booklets. Now I have one for the my current in progress project.  Now I have ordered and received these on various types of embroidery woodworking and other Medieval topics.

So for now figuring out what events I can make an appearance and get my work reworked for arts and science displays in the future. So busy also working on more late period embroidery styles and reading up on better tudor fit and plans to make period patterned linen bodies and woolen kirtle.

Plotting away,

Maureen

Ice Dragon 2014

Entered the Ice Dragon Pentathlon this year in singles entrant; my polychrome embroidered Elizabethan waistcoat in heraldic display, needlework, and post 1400 clothing. I also my suite if ruffs in accessories and medieval rope knight game in toys.

After doing so well in the novice level competition in 2013. I figured that it would be interesting to see the level that I could do this year, as a singles entrant. Felt that I would be in the middle of the pack of folks that decided to enter the Pentathlon. Which was a good start I thought, comparing scores last year I would have been third place in singles if I had tried that level in 2013.

I was riding with friends but had to leave early before the end of court. Before I left, received Prince's choice for the rope toy puppets. Later found out I was runner up for the Pent, which is second over all, and captured Toy category. Very pleased with the results for a first shot as a singles entrant!

This really motivates me not only to continue to at least enter one thing in every Ice Dragon A and S

competition. It also gives me the motivation to fine tune my projects and make sure that they are the best that they can be from now forward. Checking to make sure that the quality of the materials, the application of period methods, and period techniques are executed to higher standards.  Am interested in seeing where my standings sit in the point rankings. They will not be posted at least for another few weeks until then, my curiosity definitely is peaked.

My Teacher, Her Grace Mistress Illish ODonovan is pleased with my performance, that is the most I was concerned was disappointing her. I want to bring honor and glory to the household in word action and deed. Constant improvement and progression is the goal. I don't know what a great ice dragon pent performance, what this means for the future but it's certainly positive. With winning Novice Pent and Baroness Choice last year along with this years attaining runner up on Singles Pent this year and capturing Prince's Choice.  That means something I should hope, it's not easy and a real struggle to get it just right.

Now on to getting exact replicas, in materials technique and execution if all possible. In the meantime much more work on the embroidered polychrome waistcoat. Knowing my luck will take another 2.5 years to complete ;-) It was the real entry of talk amongst many a gentle, I met during Ice Dragon. Standard gentles can't believe how elegant and pretty it's turning out, there are lots of details for improvement but when it's done will be a stunner. I am hoping I can get it complete to wear by War Practice.

Well back to work and catching up on household chores. The hubby and cats missed me tremendously.  I have much more work to do but looking forward to a healthy challenge.

Excited for the Future,

Mairin

Silver Anniversary

Here is the pink pearled coif and partlet with another gown. This is my silk and linen  gown. All trimmed in pink gauze with gold filament with fancy button closures. The Spanish sleeves off set the coral inner sleeve with the pink trim. Very happy how it all looks.

The catapult youth activities went well, chaotic as expected. Have a few folks wanting help enhance the youth experience at events. Very pleased with the help running out of ideas and time with work being so intensive. It's nice to get some input and helping hands. The eating the ammo was very popular though I plan on better rubber bands to hold up better for the catapults. I received the Trebuchets in the mail, may have to be an outside activity since they get better distance.

Got to see many friends receive great awards, vivats for all the recipients. On the list working on Ice Dragon Pent is looming. I am working on a specific youth toy entry, fighting knights in strings as inspired by the Horus Delicarum manuscript. So I have waxed sisal rope, made a table cover, and have drawn the knights on the wooden blocks. I have the embroidered jacket to add but it's a work in progress. So have to write documentation and come up with a detailed drawing of the jacket when completed. Also have to starch the ruff and set them on their stands.

So lots to do and little time as usual but that is not  surprising. I am praying I have things done  in a reasonable manner. I hope to work on lots tonight. We shall see how far I get.

Looking to see my laurel at this event and get some major insight into  knowledgable  nuances I may have overlooked.  This being my favorite if events it's going to be fun for certain. Don't have new gown to debut but that is fine I have my gold and white gown to wear out of the fabric my laurel  gave me want to show her the use of it.

Was able to get 5th peacock done early this week working on the last one but have a gardens worth of flowers to embroider on the body of the jacket.  Guess will see how it all goes.  Got to get back yo working on all this, lots of concentration on the little things.

Regards,

Mairin

Inspiration Strikes Back

Circa 1560

Foresleeve and Foreskirt
Fabric

More gown inspiration, found this image of a gown from the 1560s and I am absolutely in love with it. I was lucky enough to come across some vintage velvet fabric in a very nice shade of red. This is at a local thrift shop, they are curtains of course. It's so odd how I see other things out of everyday materials, wish they have awards for revisioning and repurposing the mundane everyday items to medieval. 

With that being said I would like to make this gown.  Though I don't know if I have enough yardage to complete it. Especially the fullness of the skirt and the way that is pleated. Though I have to say I would love to attempt this one. Even though, I have a red velvet gown made to match 1530 Queen Jane Seymour's Holbein portrait.   Especially the hanging sleeves are lovely on this one. If I can find the right material like the portrait for sleeves and inset and fore sleeves, I would be happy. Update; the fabric I have chose for this how has picture added to this blog
This was the closest representation of the fabric given modern fabric choices on the market in my area. The pattern and type of floral represented had to be the right type of acanthus. The medallion pattern in the hanging sleeve fabric from the painting was the toughest to match. Especially without  learning fabric pairing techniques of the 16th century.

3rd Embroidered Peacock

Hanging Sleeve Fabric

In the meantime I've been steadily working on my Elizabethan embroidered jacket. And I'm making a lot of progress, more so on the peacocks anything else. I am halfway done with them! I really thrilled that they're turning out so nice, been receiving  oodles of compliments on them. I think it'll be even more impressive when I finally start working on the flowers and get them narrowed down to a beautiful selection on the tree limbs along with some leaves and spangles.

I did find out that there was some ideas on how I was to finish the jacket. And that some of the stitches were a little bit too obvious, which I was formulating ways to cover over or change the stitching in the first place. I knew that it was kind of glaring and was needing covered or removed.

2nd Embroidered Peacock

Though I'm working on a series of stitches that I can go around the inside edge of each panel and really give it a finished look. So I'm going to use more of the coral wool like it did on the edges of the pattern pieces. So it all matches and goes with the continuing theme. I  have lots more work before this is all complete and wondering if I would even get close to having this done by Ice Dragon. Though it's been 2 years already, so what is a few more months.

Well that is the update for now, will keep posting progress as it continues. With photos technique posting and finishing details, as always make it a great one.

Embroidering Much,

Mairin

Pretty, Pretty Peacocks

Making some major progress on my embroidery project. I was able over the past week to outline all of my peacocks which there are six. Outlined in embroidery stitches and get their wings in progress. I currently now have three of them filled in with the darkest teal color. Eventually those will also have accents colors stiches to the body and a lighter to green and then seafoam green for highlight.

The crown on the head will have glass beads as will the eyes of the many tail feathers. I will use the three colors in conjunction to create textured tail feathers. After these are done the work on the flowers begins.

Slowly coming together,
Maureen

Elevation of a Teacher, Friend, Mentor

       

Went to Aethelmearc Kingdom 12th night, was there to help my teacher with transition to Laurelhood. Which is a great honor to witness and be able to participate.  Her Grace, Mistress Illish ODonovan, very happy for her long deserved new status. It's great to be part of this eclectic family, Haus WeisserLowe. Was wonderful to meet more members, and get to help with the business of the day.

        Secondly I am very happy to embroider her veil and added beads to give it a extra boost of sparkle.  I stayed up all night finishing the initial design on the silk veil, later finding it was a gift from a dear friend of Illishs'. After arriving at the event, changed and settled, I was requested to add special leaf beads to the corners of the veil. Which I wanted to add beads to the design anyway, so it was all done in one long shot of beading at the event. I added beads to the design to give it more depth. It turned out heavenly in the lights of the chapel. I have a gold glass bead in the middle of each set of leaves and leave beads on such corner and three near the crossing laurel boughs. I really like how it turned out. It was a beautiful heartfelt ceremony.

      Wore my pink Elizabethan gown, based on Helena Snakenborg Marchioness of Northampton portrait from 1569. Didn't have the embroidered silk shirt underneath like the painting but it really look awesome with the partlet, matching bonnet, and purse. So totally happy with the look. Going to look to finish my embroidered jacket will match the pink of the bonnet hat, pouch. Forgot to wear my chatelaine but was busy with the veil all day.Though the partlet will not be able to be worn with the jacket.Though I think I can plan it all out up use the other accessories to the most advantage.

So for now got lots of embroider ahead. I assembled the jacket to make sure the fit was right, looking good so far but still have body panels to embroider flowers and the large peacocks. Well here is to lots of embroidery and praying my compression gloves keep my hands in good shape. The winter weather has them acting up and are sore. Progress will be posted as usual.

Regards,

Mairin

Beaded Pearled Blackwork Partlet

  Completed the blackwork partlet with beads today. Here are some photos of the completed project and matching theme with the other items I completed recently.

Debating on wearing these next weekend for Kingdom 12th night. I .have my peach Elizabethan gown I want to wear with pouch,  partlet, bonnet with peach pearls. Will give it a trial run for fit and make sure it looks right. Want to post photos but will see if time allows.

I have some embroidery to complete for someone at this event. Will show it later when completed, though I will have to work steadily on it this week to get it completed on time. Though I like a good challenge, will get my things done first before the mailed project comes.

New Years Resolution and updates.

I am not normally the type of person to make a New Year's resolution, not because of failure. But more or less I don't always have time to commit to a New Year's resolution. Though I have to say this year I do have one. Which is to complete the Elizabethan embroidered jacket that I had finished the sleeves on earlier last year. I went ahead and took a look at my pattern pieces last night. The gore pieces that I have for around the waist and body for well despite being sized wrong originally.

I do believe it's going to take several months until the jacket is complete especially with getting it lined and already to go. I think I'm at least to the halfway point or real darn close to it. I found a few pretty snowflake pillows on clearance recently, that remind me of Elizabethan flowers and are giving me some inspiration to start embroidery on this jacket again.

In the meantime I created a silk pouch to go with a few mother of pearl purse closure pieces that I bought for Christmas with the money my mother gave me for a present. The silk was salvaged from a shirt, so I could create the blue background and use the Elizabethan costuming groups device so I could use that as a way of showing that group that I belong to online. I admit might be looks a little bit big in the body but at this point it's at least a good attempt at doing one. Accented it with gold colored glass beads to give it a little bit of shine, as well as scissor charms that are also red presented on the device. I have currently been using up some of the last of the pre blackwork fabric, shown in previous posts, in an attempt to make a partlet. I have the face pieces beaded already to go I just have to line it and attach a collar as soon as that is done I will post some photos is looking very nice.

As far as the holidays go everything went pretty well. I am still waiting for the book to come in on
London lost jewels for the Cheapside hoard. I had ordered it well before Christmas and I'm not exactly sure since it's coming from England it's taking a long time. That was the main item that I got with my money my mother had sent to me and the other part was some embroidery tools and supplies. I also ended up trading some gift cards with my hubby to get some other books. I had ordered him a box set of books he was looking for a while as his gift.  So I ordered myself the one book I was needing, 17-century dress women's patterns book 1. I received book 2 at a great discount at an SCA event. I enjoyed the book so much, decided that I needed to get the first one to add to the collection.

In more history were cool pattern book news, I found out that they are putting out another addition of a Janet Arnold book for ladies patterns. I believe that this one is to deal with farthingale's as well as bum rolls and other types of stays and corsetry.   I am sure it is going to be a long while before this book comes out. And I have heard that there is a lot of effort to preserve a lot of the notes and original items that Janet Arnold used in all of her lovely research. So from what I gather there is going to probably be other volumes of her books coming out, postmortem. It would've been one awesome experience to meet her, it is unfortunate that she had passed while I was still in middle school. For those of us who make historical clothing, We salute you Janet Arnold.

Other than some recent books, getting through the holiday season, things have been going smoothly at home. Just a lot of prep work and concentration on my new job which I'm very thankful for. Battling the usual chores schedule, trying to get everything done between work and home. The kitties are doing well and avoiding any illness so far, fingers crossed. Hopefully with the added wet food I've been giving them during the winter to help them keep their amino acids and other nutrients up that'll help. Hubby is doing good as well, we just both got over a couple of head colds. We are happy and healthy so far this new year. That in mind, want to wish all of my dedicated readers a belated
Happy Holidays.

Regards,

Maureen

Crafting Storms

      Not that I am powering powerful have to craft up some amazing weather. Even though we've had

some wonderful snow to make it a very festive December. In Central Pennsylvania we got about a good 6 to 8 inches worth of the white stuff have enough to shovel. Heavy enough for me to only get a part of a days work in over the weekend. Was a little worried considering it was my on-call weekend the case I was going to have to run out to customers.  Luckily with all of everything else going on no calls really came in.  More snow is supposed to be coming in tonight. I know that it's going to be a real challenge to get all of my stops completed before the holidays. I do have a majority of my work to do this week, praying the weather holds.

In the meantime I have been crafting like a mad woman. At this point I am in the process of making a blackworked pouch with beading on it. It is in the same pattern as my black worked chatelaine from previous post. It is all drafted from the same piece of fabric with black embroidery, believe it or not was a short skirt. And unfortunately did not fit me so I found better uses for the fabric. I didn't find very many black embroidered type of cotton fabric,  it's was a great find.

     Besides making a pouch and working on the other blackwork

pieces to go with it. I have also been making stands for my linen ruff and cuffs. These are to help me better iron out my ruffs as well as for display purposes when I take them to competitions. What I did is I took wooden loops, there were letters from a craft store. Sewed a pouch of cotton fabric, inserted the wooden ring, and then stuff it with polyester batting. Proceeded to sew the back closed, glue them to the base piece of wood. And then glue that piece of wood onto the top of the wooden candlestick. I am going to paint the wood a beautiful gold color..

For more interest in not having a plain piece of white cotton fabric on top. I sewed the  heraldic patches on, from my peacocks as well as my heraldic shield to give it a unique look. Looking to see if there's some edging that I can do around the side with other needlework pieces. Though I have to be careful, because there's edges really are going to be used to help hold the ruffs to the stand. So more decision-making to be done though as you can see there has been some major progress

In my crafting moments, I been working on assembling the sleeves to my 16th-century embroidered

jacket. I have the sleeves pretty much completed this point and assembled with the guards on the top and a little bit of the shell beading.  I was planning on using some extra peach pink pearls with the gold spangles. I'm wondering whether not I want to make on the teal edges some very pretty snakes or salamanders out of these pink pearls to give it some extra interest I would only maybe put one or two. I don't plan on doing too much with the real edges. They already have coral stitching to keep them together and I do not want to hide all of that work.

I still have a lot of embroidering on the body of the particular piece. I've been working a lot of pattern

issues with this project. It's been a real challenge to make sure that everything is going to fit right and the gussets are going to lie flat and be the way that it was designed. So if all works out it's going to be one very stunning jacket. unfortunately my documentation on this is firm but I did not follow the period materials as much in making this. So I'm afraid that if I do put it in arts and sciences competition it is not going to score very well. Though I did learn a lot from making this particular project and that might be the only saving grace my documentation. To make more progress that I can post on this soon.

For now I got to get back to what I do best work, 

Maureen

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