Sunday, April 10, 2022

Textile Reference 1560’s German Gown

 

As I am working on one doll the Italian Milan 1490's, while sewing I am working out kinks in my design. So far Juliette is shaping up beautifully, the red is just gorgeous. The trim matches perfectly the hairpiece is on point, just to finish sewing on the trim and making the outer gown. Purchased an order of 80/3 linen thread in red and green to replace the ones used, so I am all stocked up. I like Burnely and Trowbridge linen thread, there are a few sizes they have that work well for different effects of sewing. The linen thread they supply is really nice and quite strong after being waxed. The color selection also works with most colors I use for my sewing.

  Currently researching the other dolls' clothing from different countries but the same year 1560. In this post working on the German 1560s gown. During the medieval and renaissance times, it was a collection of principalities, similar to Italy. There were nobles to control certain regions, Germany didn't become a unified state till 1871. So I look at Bavaria, Swiss, Austrian, and Nuremberg areas a lot for the quintessential Germans regional style. Granted Switzerland and Austria will have regional differences and become separate countries eventually. Although they are many shared traits in clothing, knowing how to distinguish the differences does help. 

So I started with Vecellio's images of woodcarvings from the region, to get a dress design in mind. Now it's time to round that out more with some texture-related images. I am planning this gown to be green velvet with some black accents.  In the 1560s, there were more structured higher necked bodices happing and less elaborate sleeves than in the 1530s cranch Saxon styled gowns. 


The german gowns seem to use a lot of gold, red black, and white quite often as a color scheme. It is nice to pick another color for a gown of this era. It's not totally out the realm of possibilities since one of my German Cranach-style dolls has an olive-colored silk gown with guards. This will be more forest green but still possible with natural dyes to get this color. 

Planning is fun,

Marrin
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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry