Saturday, May 9, 2015

Portrait of a Lady

By Hans Holben the Younger
Well working on a sheer partlet sort of like the one pictured. Hoping in warmer weather this is an alternative I may not sunburn through. Though the gradual goal is to make this outfit the right way from the skin out; headdress, veil, kirtle, smock, socks, shoes, and petticoats. So hoping that something like this would be good for the more period correct transformation I am striving towards.

Weaving silk white bands and formulating a way of making the metallic hooks on the end that stab and hold up the skirts. These "white bands" are a mystery to most costumers as to the use and purpose. In period portraits from approximately 1500-1540, we see white bands on noble and gentle woman alike.

 I am going with the theory you see in the drawing. Its a way of holding up skirts to show linings and would be another great way of showing conspicuous consumption of fabrics. So weaving a way to make an even length of band to try out pinning and use techniques on these unusual accessories.

Looking at learning fingerloop braiding as it would be appropriate
for my persona living in England. So having made a real mess of the first time, consulting a local weaving expert to better learn it and make a functional knotted mess instead of a rats nest. So hoping to make laces for gowns with points is the end goal.

Thinking more about period head wear, wondering how a gabled headdress class would go eventually? I found someone online is thinking similarly that structured headdresses evolved from pinning techniques of veils. Sumptuous outer fabrics added that evolved to solid forms of structure within and sewed to place. This is comfortable head wear, in my opinion. The lappets can be pinned for different looks, even in the structured later style. I know some folks hold contempt for a headdress that looks like a gable roof. However fashion is a winding trail with unusual
Beaded Coif
turns, this is a small segment of the 16th century. It goes in the same fashion intrigues as hennin hats, extremely long pointed french shoes and other clothing oddities.

Beaded Embroidered Frontlet
Though I was productive today, despite it being hot in the house. Took the precious beaded and goldworked embroidery that I made recently, devised to make a lined coif from it. With the beads still making an silk organza cover for it to protect the goldwork. Have to make one for another coif as well. I finished my silk organza partlet edged in velvet with silk lucet ties. Attached the embroidery to my silk gabled headdress as the crossing frontlet, it hides the front of your hair.

Silk Organza Partlet edged in Velvet

So very happy with tying up loose projects today. Wondering about time to write up documentation between appointments this week. Have interviews and hope to land that big fish I kept speaking about last post. In the meantime Its good to be busy and to finish pending projects. Hoping for continued productivity.

Keeping out of trouble and off the streets,

Mairin

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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry