Time to myself

I did a wise thing when planning my vacation in January.  Took the day before and the day of my birthday off.  Which makes me happy because in the middle of the summer being as busy as I have been with work, it is nice to take some time for myself. Which I plan on this being a lovely sewing/ embroidery extravaganza at home. I may just plan it again this way next year as well as plan in some long weekends to disburse out my vacation days.

In the meantime, I have one panel of my embroidered waistcoat full of flowers, spangles to be added

soon. So progress be at slow is being made, photos to come. My research continues more into these garments. I definitely can say no more now about these garments that when I started this project. I had mentioned about not making any more large scale embroidery projects. But with my knowledge that I have now,  might actually change my mind. Though nothing is certain at this point I have a few projects in mind but nothing that needs to be started right away. With the anniversary of my birth soon approaching, been trying to figure out what I want to get for my birthday. I'm not exactly sure at this point but fabric is always on the list.Actually books are also on the list of items that are great for birthday gifts. I acquired two new ones on embroidery that I find really fascinating. Thereby the Glasgow Museum one on 17th-century embroidery, by Rebecca Quinton and another book by the same author in regards to samplers..

My birthday wish is to learn to be more historically authentic with all of my garb. It definitely have crating the historical silhouette but I believe that to really achieve the next level in my historical tailoring, it is now time to work with all period materials, as much as possible. Focusing on more authentic materials, techniques, and finishes in my garb.  So I've been looking for silk at good prices that either I can dye or find ways of using in smaller amounts. I do have some wool that was gifted to me that I have to put to some good use. These are huge yardage amounts maybe 3 to 5 yards but it's definitely something I can use and work with. I know that I will need to stock up on the following: some silk organza, silk taffeta or dupion, and medium and tissue weight of unbleached linen.  I will need to also stock up on buckram, cotton wadding, and some millinery wire to make some hats.

It's not to say that any of the interesting synthetic fabrics that I already have, are not to get used. Though used in projects that are not to be arts and sciences based. When I use the synthetics for garb, there definitely just garb, not arts and sciences related.  I have some synthetics purchased recently that are going to make great Italian gowns for warm weather events and maybe Pennsic in the future.

Finding out more about the portrait that I'm interested in replicating. There is a portrait of Mary the I that has these beautiful coral silk sleeves done with goldwork and a matching fore-part skirt that is just gorgeous. So I have enough silk, I believe to make the four sleeves the skirt and a strip enough to do make a hood too. This is one the projects I want to get a good start on during my birthday break. The only item left that needs to be found in some sort of goldwork needlelace that seems to be on the edges of the fore-sleeves. I also need to get it hold of about 3 to 4 yards worth of black silk velvet.

Have the black silk fabric and the coral silk fabric at this point so I have about half the materials collected. The beautiful embroidery on the collar which house is believed to be copied on wrist cuffs underneath the fore-sleeves would be easy to replicate. So this is the next gown to be made,  unlike the rushed predecessors I think this is going to take most of the year to make.

In the meantime on another crafting front, made a hand strung, hand-knotted freshwater pearl necklace. I'm looking for some nice closures for it and more findings to make a pair of earrings as well. The other pearls I have leftover are going to be made into an awesome looking snood. Looks very regal.Well that's pretty much it for now, little things to keep me amused and out of trouble. Besides working a very busy schedule at work.

Keep Looking Up,

Mairin

So Many Pretties and So Little Time...

 
It is now that wonderful time of year again where I am deciding what I want to make next. I have a custom order pending, I'm waiting to hear some details. Custom orders are always a challenge and joy, I'm very excited to get started.
Included better photos of the embroidery box that I recently completed. The pictures before were a little dark. So cropped these and lightened them up so the detail is more distinct.

 I believe from what I can gather it's going to be in accessorizing late period gowns with a possible hat order depending on the customer. Which is always a good challenge to match up existing outfits to find proper accessories to give it that period finished look . So far my idea is to hand strand and knot a long freshwater pearl necklace on silk. I have some fantastic silk cord at home that will work great for this project. I also have some gold over silver ear wires that I will be able to use for dropped pearl earrings. I have to locate the proper size and weight freshwater pearl drops for the planned earrings. These two accessories are very commonly seen in anything from an Italian late period through some Spanish late period and English late period clothing. So these two items are very much something that you could transition through multiple gowns if need be. For the different time periods I play with within 100 year span I find it these transition pretty well from time period to time period.

I still have one late Italian gown that I want to make that is white silk with coral edging.  I have a  late Tudor in red velvet with brocade sleeves and inset skirt with foresleeves that are decorated. These two are gowns that I still have on my mind, that I want to make. Which I'm going to include the following pictures as inspiration from portraits. So these are pending projects but there's no deadline on when to get these gowns done. I have some red velvet but it is a  polyester nature. And it would behave for the well, it is the perfect shade to the red velvet in the portrait. Unfortunately it is not the content that I would be needing to make a arts and sciences based project. The other pieces I have for the foreskirt and the foresleeves is a similar pattern but not extact. But it would be a viable option to Pearl and finish them in a period method with lining them properly. I have some fantastic coral velvet that I would love to use for the coral and white and Italian gown. The portrait itself does look more like a silk fabric, in Italy silk was popular considering the climate. So I'm trying to find a viable trim that will simulate the white with pink embroidery we see on the gown. Trying to find a white silk that will suit the composition of the portrait. So I do want to hold off till I can find the right silk with undertones for this project. I do not normally make white gowns but this is one that I have admired for some time.

So on the garb plans for this year, projects waiting in the eaves.  I believe that these 2 gowns will occupy most of this year sewing time. Right now I am focusing on finishing my embroidered jacket.  I have decided to take out the coral wool stitched edging that I've been putting in for some months. Using matching teal thread in very fine small stitches around the teal trim. I am not able to take off the blue edging on outer edges of the jacket otherwise it will not fit properly. This occurred because of a improper patterning and sizing issue when I had created the project. Though at this point I know that when is complete it will look fantastic. I will be able to wear it over myself teal gown and it will match beautifully.  The silk downs that I bought off of eBay have proven their worth time time again. They are consistent with their fit in sizing, they work great as an under kirtle, since they're fully lined and boned, for Italian or English gowns.

Everything has a learning curve and I've learned very much of the past few months especially from a Ice Dragon on the areas I need to improve upon. So I'm trying to take this time to carefully choose the projects I want to do next. And see how close I can get to a proper historically accurate project. And I believe that working from portraits is really going to help me try to get that finished look. I do get quite a few compliments that I have stepped out from a portrait with my gown as is, but I want to make my silhouette more historical accurate and impactful if I can. 

Living the dream,

Mairin

Pear Drops of Fickle Rain

Recently participated in the Lewisburg arts festival with my shire, hosting the medieval encampment

16th Century Replica Paternoster 

that we do every year. Was well organized, though it being the weekend had a little work I need you before I left.  The call did hold me up though there was a spot waiting for me I was able to set up some youth activities like our heraldry game, coloring and heraldic color matching. Wore my teal Elizabethan with Mary Queen of Scots heart shaped hat gown and got to work a little bit on my embroidery on my waistcoat in between families visiting.

 A beautiful demo is always the weather was very fickle. It couldn't decide to rain or if it wanted to be sunny out. This concern caused a few of us to pack up a little bit earlier than expected and then the sun came out for the rest of the afternoon.  So we finish up the day on a high note and luckily not a wet note.

Tricolor Pearl Necklace

On another note while I was at the festival, I did  get a little bit of shopping and I only found one item that I wanted to purchase which was a strand of pearls. Though these are three color alternating strand of pearls with lavender and light pink pearls as well as white pearls. So this gives me something to kind of play with and enjoy there in fantastic shape and I got them for less than I bought my white pearls a Ice Dragon a few years ago.

As far as my pearls go I do want to get a pair of black pearl drops to go with the black pearl strand that I have so I can use that with garb. I have to figure out whether not I want to get a different color drops earrings for this strand. I'll have to check about colored pearls in renaissance period. Whether not I may want to matches up with some of my shades of pink garb.

Playing with some more  beads I also decided to look up and create a replica-based 16th-century

Teal Silk Elizabethan Gown

Paternoster.  The strands of beads are the precursor to the modern-day rosary. Most of them tend to have a 50 beads, though there are many period extant pieces showing beads in various different numbered strands. Most are strands are on silk thread, with no knots in between each bead, there looser set so you can move the beads as you pray, a large majority have have a tassel on the end. Extant show straight strands and other ones were looped and later paternoster a have a small drop of about five beads. This was not added till about the 15th or 16th century.  Some paternoster had larger or different colored dividing beads between the decades of 10. These were for the our father, still others do not even have this feature at all. I went for something I was a little bit fancier since my persona is 16th-century so I have three decades that's 30 beads plus the our fathers that is 33 on the loop and 7 on the drop. I was using all of the available freshwater pearl, brass filigree, and coral rose carved beads that I had available. Might be total on the strand is 43, but I need to see if I can find more of these rose carved coral beads, planning on restringing this paternoster to have the 50 beads. Since that is common set up, is still debatable whether not I will use the drop at this point but right now I'm just kind of playing with the concept.

Special thanks to Livia for taking this photo at Lewisburg Arts. I tried to crop out the background a little bit and it's a tad bit blurry but you get the idea.

Regards,

Mairin