Elizabethan Polychrome Embroidered Waistcoat Gallery

 

As promised, the pictures of the Elizabethan Polychrome Embroidered Waistcoat!

My friend and I were discussing this project as it has finally came to a close. What was interesting is this journey this project has become. Literally has been out on a work training trip to Minnesota. So believe it or not I got it and all of its materials through TSA. It has been to many SCA events, work related meetings, role-play gaming D&D sessions, Family gatherings. Survived one marriage from beginning to end, it's traveled with me everywhere I've gone for the past three years. There'll be times I will  miss bringing it with me, there'll be other times I will not. I am just happy to say this project finally complete. 

The journey has it been literal, it's also been figurative. Over the course of creating, I have learned so much about the time period that these jackets existed. I've learned so much about the materials they are made from the time, what  it takes to create something so elaborate. In the span, I learned from my mistakes and I've learned my strengths. And I really couldn't have learned this except for by doing. There are so many more stitches, techniques, and better choices of materials that I have learned in doing this whole project. It may not be exactly the way that they would've done it back in period. However this was a great opportunity to learn, embroider, assemble this jacket for a much more accurate one in the future times.

There is another of these Elizabethan waistcoats that I am planning to make, however it's going to be much more simple in design and execution and materials. The primary reference on this waistcoat was found by Heather Clark Nice, otherwise known as Her Honorable Lady Elizabeth de Salisbury. She located references of a jacket in the Victoria Albert museum that is red wool on linen, there are many unique and interesting animals that are featured on this jacket as well as flowers and other plants.  I am more specifically looking variety of stitches spacing and design on this before I lay and cut any patterns. This project will probably take a long time as well. 

This feels like an end of an era for me, because it is taking so long to complete this project. Largely the amount of time that is taken to complete this was unexpected however not unrealistic.  I look forward to debuting this complete outfit off at my next SCA event.  I do have a heart shaped cap worn with the teal gown before, am going to wear that with this particular outfit. In the meantime I have it on my dress dummy, my cats have the sense to leave it alone and I can prep the outfit for wearing. 

Enjoy the photos,

Mairin

One down, Many More to Go!

Well after countless hours and three years of my life. The Elizabethan polychrome embroidered waistcoat is complete. Other than hook and I fasteners for the front of this garment everything else is done. I am still debating on whether to put the silk pink ties on the front of this. These have been known to be added later than the time period of this garment.  Most likely I will not add them. Full length photos with the teal under gown will be coming soon. I am so happy that I was able to take this project in time for fabric, fiber and fighting event.

I can now focus on creating and researching the next Elizabethan embroidered jacket. I knew for a while there in a second one was in the works but I did not have an extent explode I liked to. Until I was consulting a friend on the next waistcoat to find out that there was a red wool version that still exists in the Victorian Albert Museum. The primary reference was found by Heather Clark, otherwise known as her ladyship Elizabeth de Salisbury. The waistcoat will be red wool embroidered on linen. This is actually from an extent Elizabethan jacket that is housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum in London England. I find the design on this one very interesting because not only are there flowers on this there are a lot of unusual animals.  Plus it is in red which is one of my favorite colors, is an example of red work done in England. Because other researched pieces have come from Eastern Europe that have been red embroidery.


I found a painting at the Metropolitan Museum of art in New York that I find very interesting. It is of an Italian down from the 1580s to the 1590's. And I'm trying to determine the layers on this garment. It has a beautiful white acanthus embroidered pattern on the sleeves and the placard, I'm just trying to figure out whether that is in under dress and then the blue silk overdress pins to it. Or if it is one complete garment with detachable sleeves. Yet again determining from our it is hard to figure out how the layers work and how the dresses constructed. It's called Portrait of a Lady by Berandino. This will be in addition to the pink and white Italian gown that I plan also on making sometime soon. I have the fabric both white and pink to make the gown. I just have to take some time to make it and wash the fabric I received.

I really do like the acanthus leaf embroidery pattern from this gown. It is something that I want to try to copy and see if I can re-create. I'm not exactly sure if it is a project that I am going to create in strips and appliqué  directly on white silk. Though it is something I'm considering.

 I was considering embroidering the floral pattern on the white and pink Italian down. Except I'm not exactly sure if it is silver or if it is white. With the way that it is painted it is hard to tell. Found a reasonable trim that will work to somewhat replicate the floral pattern. I am however a little worried about the washing of the fabric that I need to do to get the white fabric situated for this gown.

Besides working on that I have a order for custom curtains. And I'm still trying to figure out a decent pattern for though. I am also trying to figure out what I need to do for a tutor gentleman's outfit. And getting the proper measurements for it. Tutor gentleman's outfit has to be completed by January. So I do have to get started on that as soon as possible. In the meantime still working odd and interesting hours and maintaining my numbers. So in the end things are working out slowly but surely.

So that is what is on the horizon for now. I am sure that there is always more to do and interesting things to observe. Looking forward to the classes at fabric fiber and fighting. Also being able to do a few youth project. And overall excited to be getting out and about.

Regards

Mairin

Slow and Steady Wins the Race

It's been a very eventful month so far. Not only have I been taking care of all of my household needs and the needs of my two feline companions, Jasper and Tabatha. I have been working very hard to reorganize my work schedule to suit a wider range of hours. Hoping that some of my schedule will allow me to have some more free time in the evenings and weekends.

Been getting out of the house here and there.  Went to the movies on occasion, getting out to a club or bar once a month. Since Halloween is my favorite holiday I wanted to do something special this year. I surprised all of my friends, dressed up as Catwoman from the most recent Dark Knight series of films. With all of the weight loss that I have gone through over the past few months, 30 pounds to be exact.  So much more of a drastic life change, i've cut carbs down to a very low level and eat lean meats and vegetables. That is why refashioning a lot of my garb is going to have to happen this winter.  

I knew it would not take much to find a costume that would look right for me. I have always wanted to portray the Catwoman character since high school, but it's always been a very mature adult based character, and was not looked very favorably at the time. Considering my soon to be newly single status as of the new year, I figured this was a great opportunity to break out of my shell and do something out of my comfort zone. I wasn't really planning on sharing these pictures on my blog. But I figured is a good opportunity to show some other costuming that I do besides just the Renaissance.

On a more Renaissance costuming note, I did finish a commission recently. Which was for some accessories. I did the 1490s Italian coif that is made from metallic trim and beaded with pearls. Based on the painting of Eleanor De Este by Leonardo da Vinci. I included a hand strong 32 inch strand of pearls, and three sets of handmade earrings, using 14 karat gold French wires and 14 karat gold plated accents with fresh water pearls. Depending on whether I can get some transportation to one of my local SCA events, will depend on when I can deliver this commission to its new owner.

I have a friend wanting a basic gentleman's outfit so my next goal is to work on getting that properly fitted following the Tudor Tailor pattern. And I also have a request for a set of curtains for another friend. So there is some sewing going on, it's just very slow because of work scheduling.

Was planning on attending Aethelmearc Academy unfortunately meeting up with the dear friend was not going to happen. So I had alternate plans for the weekend. I hope to get to fabric fiber and fighting but that will depend upon gaining transportation on a holiday weekend.

Regards,

Mairin

Balancing Act

Well it turns out that organizing really makes a difference. I have reorganized all of my costuming and historical research books. As well as all of my personal novels. So my library is much more categorized and easier to view all of the titles in my collection.

I am now able much easier to find many items on hand. As well as able to reorganize my extensive costume and accessories collection. Now searching is easier in my trunks and my closet, select an outfit with accessories under an hour.

After having lost so much weight, many of my outfits are loose. Which is not very accurate depiction of the clothing of the time. so there will be a lot of time this winter adjusting the fit of my clothing to make sure that it is up to proper standards. In the meantime there is a small selection of historical clothing outfits that will now fit.

More or less the month of October has been a fall cleaning of sorts. I was afraid with all of the changes that I would not be able to attend  SCA events. However I had filled a need at the most recent event called AE war. I was able to fill in for Chatelaine, which was a great experience to try to help in a different way. I also brought some examples of period embroidery, since this topic wasnt on display this event. What was nice to be able to educate on embroidery and help newcomers that would be interested in this immersive experience.

Recently found out that my commission for having my heraldry done in stained glass is complete. I am hoping to pick this up at my next event. And looking for a safe window space to display how gorgeous this custom work of art is. Speaking of custom things, I have a few commissions I am also working on. As I find time, I also have a piece of clothing I am working on for a friend for upcoming festivities.other than alterations, and the gowns that I have spoke about over the past several months. I do not have any additions to new gowns that I want to add.

Howwever, there is always a possibility of finding a new historical portrait to be inspired by to make a creation of a gown. In the meantime I'm going to try to focus a little bit more on embroidery. There are some research projects that I'd like to complete in regards to it and just to become better versed in this skill.

I feel very blessed now to have space to safely display all of my spinning and yarn creation items. I have also found some time to figure out the inner workings of my yarn Swift. It needs some work to make it do what it supposed to do, which is measure about 80 yards of yarn and then click to indicate that there is 80 yards on the winder and a skein is full. At this time I would have to count the revolutions of the yarn winder to fix approx figure out the amount of yarn that would be on the arms. Having the clockwork gears inside carved and working properly will make this a much more functional piece. My spinning wheel is still in fantastic shape and now has a space that it can be properly displayed and used. I am noticing however that many of the working parts are fatigued when I purchased them, and have become more so since I have been using the wheel. So I am having some spindles and spools made for my spinning wheel that are going to be representative of the current equipment, but will be new and be able to put up with more use.

Tabitha has recently adopted the chair is one of her new favorite locations. Along with the new to me reclining rocker wingback chair that I was able to procure. the Jasper and Tabitha take turns sitting on the new chair. They are finding life much more calm than they did last week during all of the moving. Other than their normal running around the house at full speed playful times, things are much more calm.

So other than working my normal busy schedule for work. It is been nice to be able to come home to some very happy cats. Be able to relax a little bit and unwind in the evenings. Some days are longer than others so there is less time in the evening to arrange chores. But at least I am able to make it work on my own schedule. Now that my personal life is much more in my own control, I hope to get my work life back up to the standards it needs to be. Unfortunately I only have so much time during each day to focus on certain things.

Regards,

Mairin

On a personal note...

I figured it's probably best for me to let folks in general know some developing information.  It's with a heavy heart to inform all, unfortunately my marriage has become irrevocably broken. I do hope that you will give me a lot of patience, prayers and space at this time. However I will share a little bit of what's been going on in general my life currently

 So I've been dealing with separation of household including division of items. I have unfortunately not been able to do any creating as of late. And I have not made any further progress on the Tudor rose embroidery I was working on last post. Though I am doing research and looking in books for patterns in regards to future projects.

In the meantime with the moving of items, a positive thing has certainly come out from the separation. Which is the decluttering of my living space and crafting space. I can actually walk in my front room now and actually have space to move. Reorganized my fabric stash and going to put my Skein winder and my Spinningwheel out in the living room as soon as the bookshelves are moved. The space is looking more like mine every day which is very comforting.

Still have a lot more cleaning and moving of items do but I've been working on that as I've been moving items so it is not so overwhelming and their is progress. After I get my home reorganized I will be able to start working on embroidery and other scadian projects again. In the meantime in a little bit of limbo at this point in time but I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

Regards,

Maureen

Crewel Twists

It's noted in an inventory from the Victoria & Albert Museum, that there is a waistcoat embroidered in red wool embroidery on linen cotton twill fabric. Though my waistcoat is done as wool on silk, there's at least one instance where wool was embroidered on these waistcoats in the late 16th century. I contacted their textile in costume department to find out if they have a full-length picture of this garment, there was no full-length pictures showing this particular waistcoat. So waiting to see if they will correspond back.   From what I know also sarcenet is a type of silk fabric that was used also in these garments. Though the surviving examples most seem to be linen based ground fabrics. Granted it is one instance out of many garments made, were made but many that didn't make it through time. This leaves a realm of possibility some creative aspects in the design of these jackets did occur, from made of the colors to the fibers chosen did vary, a little food for thought.

It's my goal to have my waistcoat completed by the New Year. It's been far too long to let it go unfinished. I just recently acquired some spangles for the finishing touches. Over the last month I replaced all of the wool functional stitching with matching colored teal stitching. Now I am working on the embroidery all over the body of the waistcoat, with spangles after that. Then linen lining added and fastening ribbons or hook and eyes. Light at the end of the tunnel at long last.

In the meantime I've been doing other sample embroidery with silk to get used to its characteristics.  Some of the projects to try out will work with some new stitches from an Elizabethan stitches book. I'm also looking into some gold work stitches to make some smaller projects like a set of cuffs for gloves, an embroidered polychrome coif, a monochrome coif with gold work and other projects.
So lots of stitching and my future and looking forward to many a unique project to be made.

On a different note the First Annual; Lake Augusta Renaissance Festival was a success. There was a lot of compliments on how educational and family friendly this event was for the public.  It's different this Renaissance Festival is compared to commercial festivals. I think we had a very good crowd the weather was nice, I spent most my time embroidering and  helping out in the arts and sciences tent.

Regards,

Maureen

Work Hard...Play Hard

Found gold organza gold embroidered placemats on Ebay, been eyeing up these for a while. I figured a partlet was possible but didn't realize there was enough for a matching bonnet. These have some Tudor like embroidered flowers, gold seed and bungle beads on gold embroidered leaves and swirl edge with scalloped edging. This was a lot if fun to make, though it was a lot of assembly and careful stitching. Organza is not very forgiving on fraying, so had to negotiate the gorgeous gold shiny fabrics carefully. These were made from placemats, as seen by the photo below. Took an evenings worth of hand sewing to complete.

It's ironic that once I bought this and started assembling it, into a new to me partlet/bonnet set, that one later gown I purchased would match it. A couple weeks after buying the placemats for my birthday, bought two Elizabethan gowns in partial completion for a steal of a deal. It had a small amount of binding tape the same color as the burgundy in the partlet flowers. I found a merlot burgundy fabric to line the sleeves, which there was enough fabric to complete the sleeves and guards. I have to add the burgundy trim that I have, which was from an SCA auction in large quantities. Figure I can try a few different combinations of laying trim and see what looks nicest.

 Here is what the fabric looks like.  The bodice was complete but needed to add a back panel, sleeves, skirt and eyelets. It comes out as a similar to side back lacing on me.  So I will have more control over the fit and not squeeze into a gown too small.  The picture to the left is a good photo of the color and damask pattern variation.  It's very beautiful in person. Lining with the burgundy fabric really punches it up, all because I followed the same color binding tape on the gown bodice. Right now besides setting sleeves and laying the trim. Looking into laces for these but still lots of finishing to be done before looking to lucet laces and points.

I have a second gown with puffy sleeves and yardage for a skirt. It's burgundy with gold lozenge pattern. Though there are laces on the front, maybe to attach a placard. I have to set a back panel to make this side back lacing to fit. Sleeves fit and length is good. Looking for pleating the skirt, attaching it to bodice.  I need to figure out if I can find hundreds of freshwater seed pearls to accent the lozenge fabric. Not sure if I want to make an open from skirt or keep it closed.  There is black binding  on the bodice and the black laces. So got to figure out this war puzzle of fun.

So collecting real silk for A&S projects.  Finishing off these partial gowns and accessories for something new to wear. For now just keep up working on these and thoughtfully plot my next A&S project for the coming months.

Regards,

Maureen

Time to myself

I did a wise thing when planning my vacation in January.  Took the day before and the day of my birthday off.  Which makes me happy because in the middle of the summer being as busy as I have been with work, it is nice to take some time for myself. Which I plan on this being a lovely sewing/ embroidery extravaganza at home. I may just plan it again this way next year as well as plan in some long weekends to disburse out my vacation days.

In the meantime, I have one panel of my embroidered waistcoat full of flowers, spangles to be added

soon. So progress be at slow is being made, photos to come. My research continues more into these garments. I definitely can say no more now about these garments that when I started this project. I had mentioned about not making any more large scale embroidery projects. But with my knowledge that I have now,  might actually change my mind. Though nothing is certain at this point I have a few projects in mind but nothing that needs to be started right away. With the anniversary of my birth soon approaching, been trying to figure out what I want to get for my birthday. I'm not exactly sure at this point but fabric is always on the list.Actually books are also on the list of items that are great for birthday gifts. I acquired two new ones on embroidery that I find really fascinating. Thereby the Glasgow Museum one on 17th-century embroidery, by Rebecca Quinton and another book by the same author in regards to samplers..

My birthday wish is to learn to be more historically authentic with all of my garb. It definitely have crating the historical silhouette but I believe that to really achieve the next level in my historical tailoring, it is now time to work with all period materials, as much as possible. Focusing on more authentic materials, techniques, and finishes in my garb.  So I've been looking for silk at good prices that either I can dye or find ways of using in smaller amounts. I do have some wool that was gifted to me that I have to put to some good use. These are huge yardage amounts maybe 3 to 5 yards but it's definitely something I can use and work with. I know that I will need to stock up on the following: some silk organza, silk taffeta or dupion, and medium and tissue weight of unbleached linen.  I will need to also stock up on buckram, cotton wadding, and some millinery wire to make some hats.

It's not to say that any of the interesting synthetic fabrics that I already have, are not to get used. Though used in projects that are not to be arts and sciences based. When I use the synthetics for garb, there definitely just garb, not arts and sciences related.  I have some synthetics purchased recently that are going to make great Italian gowns for warm weather events and maybe Pennsic in the future.

Finding out more about the portrait that I'm interested in replicating. There is a portrait of Mary the I that has these beautiful coral silk sleeves done with goldwork and a matching fore-part skirt that is just gorgeous. So I have enough silk, I believe to make the four sleeves the skirt and a strip enough to do make a hood too. This is one the projects I want to get a good start on during my birthday break. The only item left that needs to be found in some sort of goldwork needlelace that seems to be on the edges of the fore-sleeves. I also need to get it hold of about 3 to 4 yards worth of black silk velvet.

Have the black silk fabric and the coral silk fabric at this point so I have about half the materials collected. The beautiful embroidery on the collar which house is believed to be copied on wrist cuffs underneath the fore-sleeves would be easy to replicate. So this is the next gown to be made,  unlike the rushed predecessors I think this is going to take most of the year to make.

In the meantime on another crafting front, made a hand strung, hand-knotted freshwater pearl necklace. I'm looking for some nice closures for it and more findings to make a pair of earrings as well. The other pearls I have leftover are going to be made into an awesome looking snood. Looks very regal.Well that's pretty much it for now, little things to keep me amused and out of trouble. Besides working a very busy schedule at work.

Keep Looking Up,

Mairin

So Many Pretties and So Little Time...

 
It is now that wonderful time of year again where I am deciding what I want to make next. I have a custom order pending, I'm waiting to hear some details. Custom orders are always a challenge and joy, I'm very excited to get started.
Included better photos of the embroidery box that I recently completed. The pictures before were a little dark. So cropped these and lightened them up so the detail is more distinct.

 I believe from what I can gather it's going to be in accessorizing late period gowns with a possible hat order depending on the customer. Which is always a good challenge to match up existing outfits to find proper accessories to give it that period finished look . So far my idea is to hand strand and knot a long freshwater pearl necklace on silk. I have some fantastic silk cord at home that will work great for this project. I also have some gold over silver ear wires that I will be able to use for dropped pearl earrings. I have to locate the proper size and weight freshwater pearl drops for the planned earrings. These two accessories are very commonly seen in anything from an Italian late period through some Spanish late period and English late period clothing. So these two items are very much something that you could transition through multiple gowns if need be. For the different time periods I play with within 100 year span I find it these transition pretty well from time period to time period.

I still have one late Italian gown that I want to make that is white silk with coral edging.  I have a  late Tudor in red velvet with brocade sleeves and inset skirt with foresleeves that are decorated. These two are gowns that I still have on my mind, that I want to make. Which I'm going to include the following pictures as inspiration from portraits. So these are pending projects but there's no deadline on when to get these gowns done. I have some red velvet but it is a  polyester nature. And it would behave for the well, it is the perfect shade to the red velvet in the portrait. Unfortunately it is not the content that I would be needing to make a arts and sciences based project. The other pieces I have for the foreskirt and the foresleeves is a similar pattern but not extact. But it would be a viable option to Pearl and finish them in a period method with lining them properly. I have some fantastic coral velvet that I would love to use for the coral and white and Italian gown. The portrait itself does look more like a silk fabric, in Italy silk was popular considering the climate. So I'm trying to find a viable trim that will simulate the white with pink embroidery we see on the gown. Trying to find a white silk that will suit the composition of the portrait. So I do want to hold off till I can find the right silk with undertones for this project. I do not normally make white gowns but this is one that I have admired for some time.

So on the garb plans for this year, projects waiting in the eaves.  I believe that these 2 gowns will occupy most of this year sewing time. Right now I am focusing on finishing my embroidered jacket.  I have decided to take out the coral wool stitched edging that I've been putting in for some months. Using matching teal thread in very fine small stitches around the teal trim. I am not able to take off the blue edging on outer edges of the jacket otherwise it will not fit properly. This occurred because of a improper patterning and sizing issue when I had created the project. Though at this point I know that when is complete it will look fantastic. I will be able to wear it over myself teal gown and it will match beautifully.  The silk downs that I bought off of eBay have proven their worth time time again. They are consistent with their fit in sizing, they work great as an under kirtle, since they're fully lined and boned, for Italian or English gowns.

Everything has a learning curve and I've learned very much of the past few months especially from a Ice Dragon on the areas I need to improve upon. So I'm trying to take this time to carefully choose the projects I want to do next. And see how close I can get to a proper historically accurate project. And I believe that working from portraits is really going to help me try to get that finished look. I do get quite a few compliments that I have stepped out from a portrait with my gown as is, but I want to make my silhouette more historical accurate and impactful if I can. 

Living the dream,

Mairin

All work and no play...

It's been a hectic month, finally finished my work. I took on additional work to help with accounts needing serviced. Very successfully completed them before my deadline, which makes me happy. Turns out these locations I trained at over 9 months ago, so soon as I entered; recognized them immediately.  Finished them in time to make the trek home to meet up with hubby for us time, yay!

With my extra time was able to watch Maleficent in 3D with hubby yesterday. We had free tickets due to our loyalty club membership. It's not how I expected it to be but was interesting how the story danced in detail around the original animated feature from 1959.  I wish some of the story wasn't so rushed to workout the iconic scenes. Though overall I liked and the animation effects and such were dazzling. Out of the live action films so far I would say this is the best sticking to the original with a twist being from the villain point of view. It uses the first telling as a tale woven through time and the facts were lost in translation, which does happen in history. 

Since I had the rest of the weekend to myself despite being on call, I was able to finish up a small embroidery project that I had been working on for some time. This is the embroidery box that I created as inspired by the 17th-century embroidery caskets used to store embroidery items tools notions. Now this one is just a simple square box,  I was able to cover it over with Aida cloth and some of the edging is a strip of cross stitch fabric, the strip was decorated  for a bell pull.  I used it to go all the way around the edge of this particular box, as well as accent the top cover. I added some looped lace on the top cover for interest.I was able to also add one of my patches of my heraldic arms, there are two sequined peacocks with cockleshell's pearls and glass beads accenting flowers around the sides all done with silk. Most of this is a conglomeration of items that I already had in my embroidery stash of awesome. The peacocks I purchased specifically for this project and they would be considered tree ornaments in their original state.

Contemplating the next project. Though it's best for me to go back to the embroidered jacket to make actual progress on it. Came too far to turn back now, it will look great when done. I just wish it could embroider itself sometimes. Brings to mind my favorite scene in the 1959 movie Sleeping Beauty is, when the fairies are making the dress and it magically sews itself while waltzing in the air. I kind of wish there was that type of magic for creating my renaissance gowns as easily. The gown making scene by birds and mice in Cinderella was good too.
Wishing there were more hours in a day,

Mairin