Sunday, January 13, 2013

Collars and Cuffs...Oh My!

These collars I did not make from scratch but I did modify them to work for my intentions. Recently I have been looking into Jacobean Stuart clothing to see how I can make my late Elizabethan gowns work for many purposes. Which I find most of it is how one accessorized their outfit to the time period one wants to depict. So hats, collars, fans, jewelry, and hairstyle plays a huge portion of the time period depicted.

The Painting above is from 1601, such lovely little ladies and surprisingly similar collars to the ones below, they are not partlets like we traditionally see from earlier Tudor paintings. I wanted to make some similar lace collars and cuffs for a flatter look with gowns. Considering fashions like a Medici Collar or a Holland rabato, a standing stiffened lace collar sometimes supported from the bottom were in my thoughts.
Bought these batternburg lace collars at an SCA event.

Well I decided to modify these to have sets: collar and cuffs to match. I wanted to show you all what I came up with modifying 6 collars to make 3 sets. All these will need to be cleaned in a very diluted oxy-clean solution to get some of the staining out. They are 100% cotton fabric so I must be careful. After washing they will be starched and set on a shirt for an event. I am not sure how I am going to work these collars with my existing gowns. Though I have a few ideas. The cotton reminds me of Holland cloth, which was made from linen traditionally.  The Netherlands has a lace collar on a wired rabato in late Elizabethan Era. I saw a circular one as flat starched ruff in a painting of Elizabeth I. The last is a standing Medici collar, which is tucked into the edge of a gown. Which all of these variations had matching cuffs for the sleeves of gowns. At least that is the options I am considering at this time. Two sets still need buttons for the sleeves and collars. Which the buttons will be from fresh water pearls and own handmade thread loops to hold them in place.
 
Not sure if I am going to embellish these with gold thread through the lace or not, I may try it on one and see if it is something I want to try with the others or not. Will have to be careful of any embellishment making them heavy and not very washable, iron or starch friendly on a regular basis. Though I look this as a challenge to take something that is later and fashioning to my needs for Elizabethan/ Jacobean needs.
 I consider this part of my "creative anachronisms" with in society. This fills in for lace until I learn to make my own treatments and and such to fill the trim and lace gap with my own handmade creations.

Some of my other Anachronisms, is wearing as simple flesh colored make up. Nothing over done just liquid and powder foundation to cover my flaws and maybe some lip balm. Not the chalk white face that is traditional at Elizabethan court, don't want to scare the little ones. I also carry a purse to events, which is covered in a large felt Tudor rose. This disguise on a plain velvet bag, allows my bag to be heraldic as well functional. No way that heraldic bags happened in period, though its a fun twist. Also much more practical that carrying pockets under my gown. Though I have a set to finish embroidering soon. I planning on making one from my own heraldry bag for events in the future, but have not made plans yet.

I also wear full length stockings for chaffing sake, my legs don't do well without pantyhose. So I have 2 sets of black wool, 2 sets cranberry cable knit cotton full length tights. Its for my own comfort and the do wick away moisture from sweating, which happens alot in my style garb. Full length tights are not period, I do have knee socks but don't wear them often. So really I do have a few on the list of Anachronisms, but I would rather skim a bit on the historical and be cheerful.  Than be period correct and miserable company for those around me and visitors coming through. Though I am not the only historical recreationist that keeps a few more modern comforts well hidden or disguised that help them get through the day.

Hey what can I say somethings got to give,

Maureen        



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Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560's Venetian Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Replica 1560 French Fashion Doll

Tudor Q and A

What is a Tudorosity?

A mashed combination of the words Tudor and Curiosity to create the word Tudorosity. Tudorosities is the plural form and the deffinition is as follows.

Tudorosity- an desire to learn or know anything about the Tudor dynasty associated with years 1405 through 1603.

Most people ask my why I make the Tudor garb ?

I find the clothing of this era not only beautiful but also challenging to sew. There is much more care and purpose put into making garments and wearing garments in the Tudor Era. I love the look of Tudor so much I wanted to explore the way clothes were made back then and the subtle changes in fashion and styles of time.

How did you get started in this interesting hobby?

I started with art first, I love to draw, paint, and sculpt all the traditional fine arts. So being able to draw helps me visualize the looks I want to create in my garb. History has always been a huge interest of mine and I've had a knack for sewing since I was 7 years old. It all started with doll clothes and I learned cross stitch embroidery from my grandmother when I was little. I am self taught sewer, crochet, knitting, embroidery and tatting. My methods are learned from books mainly and there is still so much more to learn.

What is my favorite outfit and why?

It would be like picking a favorite out of one of my future children, its impossible. I love all my gown creations and really like the distinct differences in all the styles clothing I make for the Tudor Era.

Do you make the whole outfit including hat, shoes, and undergarments?

I do have a goal of making a complete Tudor from the skin out. As of right now I make 90% of my gowns and accessories. The shoes and stockings, are bought online and the petticoats are a close reproduction but not made by me. .

How long does it take to make a gown?

It all depends on the type of gown. The making relies on the time period and class of the design. Generally if I work on it 8 hours a day on a sewing machine it will take 3 days to get the basics and another 5 days to do finish hand-sewing details and beading. So a week to a week and a half if working on it steady for that amount of time. I work a full-time job so it does take longer than a week to complete. I put over 40-100 hours per outfit depending on its complexity, its like its own full time job of sorts.

Do you make renaissance clothing for sale or custom orders?

No, due to new employment and changes in my lifestyle. Unfortunately, I have no time to support sewing for others. Though I recommend sewing lessons for those adventurous few. There are many fine folks who make and sell historical clothing. I suggest guidance with sew from many fine historical enthusiastic costumers out on the internet.

How long have you been making these elaborate costumes?

I have been in the Society of Creative Anachronism coming up on my 18th year. Active since 2004 working at demonstrations and volunteering when I could between working and other life's distractions. I really concentrated on Tudor sewing in 2007 and worked with patterns to learn proper fabrics, techniques, fit, and silhouette. I really enjoy the eras transition from a medieval form fitting layered cotterdie to the boned Tudor kirtle and then to structured Elizabethan clothing.

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll

Replica 1490 Milan Italian Fashion Doll
Based on art by Giovanni Ambrogio

O’Kealy Heraldry

O’Kealy Heraldry