So Many Pretties and So Little Time...

 
It is now that wonderful time of year again where I am deciding what I want to make next. I have a custom order pending, I'm waiting to hear some details. Custom orders are always a challenge and joy, I'm very excited to get started.
Included better photos of the embroidery box that I recently completed. The pictures before were a little dark. So cropped these and lightened them up so the detail is more distinct.

 I believe from what I can gather it's going to be in accessorizing late period gowns with a possible hat order depending on the customer. Which is always a good challenge to match up existing outfits to find proper accessories to give it that period finished look . So far my idea is to hand strand and knot a long freshwater pearl necklace on silk. I have some fantastic silk cord at home that will work great for this project. I also have some gold over silver ear wires that I will be able to use for dropped pearl earrings. I have to locate the proper size and weight freshwater pearl drops for the planned earrings. These two accessories are very commonly seen in anything from an Italian late period through some Spanish late period and English late period clothing. So these two items are very much something that you could transition through multiple gowns if need be. For the different time periods I play with within 100 year span I find it these transition pretty well from time period to time period.

I still have one late Italian gown that I want to make that is white silk with coral edging.  I have a  late Tudor in red velvet with brocade sleeves and inset skirt with foresleeves that are decorated. These two are gowns that I still have on my mind, that I want to make. Which I'm going to include the following pictures as inspiration from portraits. So these are pending projects but there's no deadline on when to get these gowns done. I have some red velvet but it is a  polyester nature. And it would behave for the well, it is the perfect shade to the red velvet in the portrait. Unfortunately it is not the content that I would be needing to make a arts and sciences based project. The other pieces I have for the foreskirt and the foresleeves is a similar pattern but not extact. But it would be a viable option to Pearl and finish them in a period method with lining them properly. I have some fantastic coral velvet that I would love to use for the coral and white and Italian gown. The portrait itself does look more like a silk fabric, in Italy silk was popular considering the climate. So I'm trying to find a viable trim that will simulate the white with pink embroidery we see on the gown. Trying to find a white silk that will suit the composition of the portrait. So I do want to hold off till I can find the right silk with undertones for this project. I do not normally make white gowns but this is one that I have admired for some time.

So on the garb plans for this year, projects waiting in the eaves.  I believe that these 2 gowns will occupy most of this year sewing time. Right now I am focusing on finishing my embroidered jacket.  I have decided to take out the coral wool stitched edging that I've been putting in for some months. Using matching teal thread in very fine small stitches around the teal trim. I am not able to take off the blue edging on outer edges of the jacket otherwise it will not fit properly. This occurred because of a improper patterning and sizing issue when I had created the project. Though at this point I know that when is complete it will look fantastic. I will be able to wear it over myself teal gown and it will match beautifully.  The silk downs that I bought off of eBay have proven their worth time time again. They are consistent with their fit in sizing, they work great as an under kirtle, since they're fully lined and boned, for Italian or English gowns.

Everything has a learning curve and I've learned very much of the past few months especially from a Ice Dragon on the areas I need to improve upon. So I'm trying to take this time to carefully choose the projects I want to do next. And see how close I can get to a proper historically accurate project. And I believe that working from portraits is really going to help me try to get that finished look. I do get quite a few compliments that I have stepped out from a portrait with my gown as is, but I want to make my silhouette more historical accurate and impactful if I can. 

Living the dream,

Mairin

Pear Drops of Fickle Rain

Recently participated in the Lewisburg arts festival with my shire, hosting the medieval encampment

16th Century Replica Paternoster 

that we do every year. Was well organized, though it being the weekend had a little work I need you before I left.  The call did hold me up though there was a spot waiting for me I was able to set up some youth activities like our heraldry game, coloring and heraldic color matching. Wore my teal Elizabethan with Mary Queen of Scots heart shaped hat gown and got to work a little bit on my embroidery on my waistcoat in between families visiting.

 A beautiful demo is always the weather was very fickle. It couldn't decide to rain or if it wanted to be sunny out. This concern caused a few of us to pack up a little bit earlier than expected and then the sun came out for the rest of the afternoon.  So we finish up the day on a high note and luckily not a wet note.

Tricolor Pearl Necklace

On another note while I was at the festival, I did  get a little bit of shopping and I only found one item that I wanted to purchase which was a strand of pearls. Though these are three color alternating strand of pearls with lavender and light pink pearls as well as white pearls. So this gives me something to kind of play with and enjoy there in fantastic shape and I got them for less than I bought my white pearls a Ice Dragon a few years ago.

As far as my pearls go I do want to get a pair of black pearl drops to go with the black pearl strand that I have so I can use that with garb. I have to figure out whether not I want to get a different color drops earrings for this strand. I'll have to check about colored pearls in renaissance period. Whether not I may want to matches up with some of my shades of pink garb.

Playing with some more  beads I also decided to look up and create a replica-based 16th-century

Teal Silk Elizabethan Gown

Paternoster.  The strands of beads are the precursor to the modern-day rosary. Most of them tend to have a 50 beads, though there are many period extant pieces showing beads in various different numbered strands. Most are strands are on silk thread, with no knots in between each bead, there looser set so you can move the beads as you pray, a large majority have have a tassel on the end. Extant show straight strands and other ones were looped and later paternoster a have a small drop of about five beads. This was not added till about the 15th or 16th century.  Some paternoster had larger or different colored dividing beads between the decades of 10. These were for the our father, still others do not even have this feature at all. I went for something I was a little bit fancier since my persona is 16th-century so I have three decades that's 30 beads plus the our fathers that is 33 on the loop and 7 on the drop. I was using all of the available freshwater pearl, brass filigree, and coral rose carved beads that I had available. Might be total on the strand is 43, but I need to see if I can find more of these rose carved coral beads, planning on restringing this paternoster to have the 50 beads. Since that is common set up, is still debatable whether not I will use the drop at this point but right now I'm just kind of playing with the concept.

Special thanks to Livia for taking this photo at Lewisburg Arts. I tried to crop out the background a little bit and it's a tad bit blurry but you get the idea.

Regards,

Mairin

Pretty, Pretty Peacocks

Making some major progress on my embroidery project. I was able over the past week to outline all of my peacocks which there are six. Outlined in embroidery stitches and get their wings in progress. I currently now have three of them filled in with the darkest teal color. Eventually those will also have accents colors stiches to the body and a lighter to green and then seafoam green for highlight.

The crown on the head will have glass beads as will the eyes of the many tail feathers. I will use the three colors in conjunction to create textured tail feathers. After these are done the work on the flowers begins.

Slowly coming together,
Maureen

Beaded Pearled Blackwork Partlet

  Completed the blackwork partlet with beads today. Here are some photos of the completed project and matching theme with the other items I completed recently.

Debating on wearing these next weekend for Kingdom 12th night. I .have my peach Elizabethan gown I want to wear with pouch,  partlet, bonnet with peach pearls. Will give it a trial run for fit and make sure it looks right. Want to post photos but will see if time allows.

I have some embroidery to complete for someone at this event. Will show it later when completed, though I will have to work steadily on it this week to get it completed on time. Though I like a good challenge, will get my things done first before the mailed project comes.

;-)Up to No Good ;-)

It's been a while, sorry to be away for so long. Life has been hectic and it's hard to keep up. Yesterday

participated  in the Kingdom of Aethelmearc: arts and sciences competition. I didn't win but I had a wonderful time, a great day of learning, and feedback for my work. Entered my embroidered Italian pocket, Elizabethan embroidered gloves, and my 16th-century marionette puppets. I had documentation for these, displayed my pearled partlet, but the documentation is still pending on this and my ruffs.  Below are listed a link to some pictures taken of me and my display, while I was at the championship. The teal and pink tudor gown really shows up very pretty and these pictures.

I also made a new chatelaine, one to match the blackwork pin cushion and measuring tape. I used the machine blackwork embroidered cotton fabric and attached it to my Tudor Rose cross stitched Sachet. Made a loop added Bee Pin for Elizabethan Costume Bees from Facebook.  I also covered the back to complete the look. So here is the resulting pictures of the completed work, stayed up late to complete this project.

Lady Mairin at Kingdom A&S Championship

Blackwork Chatelaine

I have been inspired to complete on my version of the Pilmoth Embroidered 16th Century Jacket. Have been working on adding cotton batting on the inside to give body to the jacket. I got pearls and glass beads to add the sparkle to the jacket.  I have some other decisions creatively for this project yet, but I have some good options.


I have the sleeves nearly done, lining the gussets, and work on peacocks on body panels. After all panels are embroidered, beaded, and lined then pieces are sewed together. It's going to take many weeks maybe months to get this project complete. The documentation is going to be non-existent since I did this opposite the norm of period embroidered jackets.Though it's going to be awesome to behold if I can get the vision in my head to be reality.

Work is going well, I am salary now. Interesting to see how this will work out for pay.  Still have to take state exam this month, hope to do well. Going to so more studying this week and stay up to date on my schedule. On the hubby front, Justin has a potential for a new job, hope it all works out. Things are looking up guess we will see how it goes.

Keeping Positive,

Maureen

Partlet a la Francais

Francois Clouet drawing 

       I had made this weekend on projects. I finally completed my French renaissance partlet. It has gold and silver cord trim, purchased at Pillaged Village. I hand embroidered some gold and silver work in a lozenge pattern with freshwater pearls at the intersections. It is based on portraits of nobles from the French court from 1520-1560 by the artist Clouet.

      I have yet to write up my documentation on this project and have yet to do the same on my ruffs. It's hard sitting with  hubby since time is limited in the evening to be together. I still have work on details of this project. It needs to be lined which I do still have some linen to line it with. And I also have to attach some ribbon to the corners in order to have ties. I also need to fine jeweled clasps like on the front of this example Clouet drawing above left.

French Partlet Back

Front French Partlet

On ward to pockets now. I have orange gold silk for the top face of the pocket and I have another fabric for the bottom, most likely be cold lozenge fabric which I'm going to use also as an accent fabric for these fancier pockets. I have silk thread to attach everything together and then the inside is lined with the linen. I was also thinking of using my coral colored velvet as another alternative to make a different style of the Italian  pockets.

Hope to post more progress on the pockets as soon as I can. Have so many ideas on design it's hard to narrow it down. This is why I am doing more than one based on portraiture from the period. That will be more explained when I finally write up the research. I need to get these projects done ASAP and sent to a friend. Let's hope when they are done that they get a warm reception.

Back to the Grindstone,

Maureen

Lucy Locket's Pocket

Puff of Ruff

       Trying to find time to make projects tasked to me at coronation, a challenge is always a healthy endeavor. Needing to show more variety in in my SCA projects, so trying to keep it Elizabethan practical so here it goes. The first of three projects to get some variety sparking. Making a set of embroidered pockets, an embroidered partlet, and a suite of ruffs. So when I get these done, will post pics as I am today.

Front and Back

Still working on 16th century references to embroidered pockets, not much success that is English pockets. Some continental versions that are made from fancy fabrics and couched embroidery. Which is on the trail! There are period examples of separate pockets but they are mainly Italian and some Spanish references. Turns out in Italian they are called a soccacia, who knew. There are English references in Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked to pockets she had made;. though they are period listings from her household and not much great detail is given other than fabric and color. No reference to decoration or use, which I am sure to an Elizabethan would be obvious. With the change vocabulary in our language its a bit murky. Some pockets referenced are matching fabrics from gowns also listed. Others are listings of many pockets made with no corresponding garment. My hypothesis is these separate pockets are made to go with many outfits separate of garments. I know from the foreign examples that the embroidery period extent pockets are a form of couching. Got to start from somewhere, so working on the historical origins of pockets to get a 16th century grasp.

This is the coif I want to embroider.

Found a nice pattern from an extant coif I want to emulate, it's really beautiful. I love the colors and pattern arranged on the coif. This one pictures to the left is in Patterns of Fashion 4. Its lovely!

Now to find time to make it;-) wish I could sew at work but between stops while driving is not advised. Plus my vehicle is a dirty utility work truck, would not want to put any light fabric in that vehicle. Let alone put any fabric at all in it for that matter.

Regal Ruff Pose

Work has been busy as expected, though adjusting. Plus getting speedier at my tasks which is making things simpler to complete. Now that things are completed, I should have more time to make  projects.

On the ruff front, I got the suite complete except for the closure. So here are the pictures. This is not starched or ironed so please forgive the unorganized look of my sets. I wanted to get something to a patient audience, since its been a long time since I posted. 

Lozenge Pattern Inspiration

In the meantime, working on a French Partlet with gold and silver embroidery. Taking a drawing by the French court artist Clouet, and using the gold-worked partlet lozenge pattern base with some trim and pearls. So here is to patience since working with metallic threads tangle so badly. I will have to work it all in small sections of thread to save the bunching.thinking backstitch is what will make a smooth delicate line on the linen. 

Will post progress as I get along in the projects. Maybe sometime before I post again. So I wanted to thank everyone for the support of the blog over the past few years. My readership has grown more than I could expect for the narrow topics covered. Another milestone 200 posts in this journey of costuming discovery!

No pictures of me from Fall Coronation, that is what I get for being fashionably late ;-) Youth activities went well, spent time breaking up arguments mostly. Felt like Judge Mairin most of the day, lol. Near by game room was a happening place all ages could work together to learn the many games shared. It was a bit chaotic at time but for the most part everyone just needed some chaperoning to keep younger ones in check. I want to plan more things to do for next time. FFF will have more than just playtime, got some good ideas for that one.

  I was made a seamstress of the court with my limited help with making items for their Majesties. They are so generous, and it was totally unexpected. The items made worked out well and are still loved and used, that was my goal. I received a little scroll that is beautifully calligraphed, no illumination but its not needed. My teacher Duchess Ilish was made on as well, though she did far more work and labor. Made their Majesties Coronation garb, it took most of the night before the big day. A very talented and dedicated tailor, and Their Majesties look perfect!

Well that is about it for now,

Mairin

Foresleeves, Foreskirts and Hoods, Oh My!

    Over the past day I did finish the velvet salmon colored foresleeves, they look gorgeous! Now on to to the foreskirt/underskirt. I make my underskirts versatile, I along with the Tudors, are big mix and match fans. Since the skirts I make are double faced, which is a non-period technique. Basically instead of using just one facing fancy fabric with a cheaper alternative fabric on the back side of the skirt. I use two fancier fabrics, one on the front and one on the back. Now this would be considered a modern costuming convention to save from making many individual foreskirts. This way I can get twice the use out of one skirt, it also saves space in crowded garb trunks as well.

    Drawbacks, if I decided to sell underskirts I have to sell ether two gowns that match the foreskirt and foresleeves or two foresleeves sets to got with the one skirt. Though this situation is resolved with my reduced selling of premade gowns and more emphasis on custom gowns.

     I do on occasion find that my thinking is inline with period techniques, which alot of methods are common sense. Others such as, meanings of words and other terminology; as well as translating old english language are a bit confusing, with the 500 year time gap and all. Though I surprise myself, with my similar Tudor thought process. In some respects, more than folks really give credit, we are closer to the Tudors than one thinks. My use of foreskirts is not a huge stretch from what they did in period. Everyone back then wanted to look as close to a higher class as they could get away with, which meant buying expensive fabrics and adornment. Though some lesser nobles had to choose carefully with the restrictions of sumptuary laws put out by the crown and the church. So today we can go and wear as we like, which is really a freedom they did not have in the 16th Century. I guess making gowns that have a similar color palate to back then is fun. Though modern reenactors/recreationists get to stretch the envelope so much more than Tudors ever could with our 500 year time advantage. Then there is accuracy and debates on technique, which I will leave for a another post.

    Formulating a plan of attack on making the French hood just like one in the painting for the teal gown. Though I am not going to use colored stones if I can help it on the biliment, the back edge of the hood. If I use just pearls and gold accents I can wear it with more sets of jewels than if I match it with specific colored gems. I have some beads that match the foresleeve beads and plan on using them to tie the French hood together with the foresleeves and foreskirt as a complete set.

    Sets are nice since you can match a hood, foresleeves and foreskirt and use them with more than one gown. The set I am making is also going to also be use with my Cream with Gold Brocade Tudor Gown, that I am working on simultaneously. The Cream with Gold Brocade Tudor gown does have pinkish with gold stones on it and will work great with the foreskirt set.


     Normally am not a huge color pink fan but I find that it suits my skin coloring well. If I go with more salmon, mauve, and shades of peach it really looks good on me. If I go to pale in shades it really washes me out, so I do pay attention to the shades I choose.  Its been fun to work with more unusual colorings in my wardrobe. If variety is the spice of life, bring on the spice!

     I am almost up to 20,000 views, thanks so much for the support over the years. If you are new consider following my blog, to get updated on the latest topics and pictures of my gown making adventures. Will post more pictures of my progress, plan on making a Tudor Garb Gallery with these two new gowns soon.

Sew Crazy,

Maureen

German Saxony Gowns

Wanted to show some German Saxony Renaissance Portraits that inspire me, they may not being exactly the time and coutry my SCA persona is located, this was her adopted home. Though I love well tailored gowns, hats and hairstyles of the 1540-1550 German. I wanted to share these jewels of clothing mastery with my readers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

AE Academy

Well other than gushing over my Sycamore Scroll, I did alot for AE Academy. I put up my doll castle for display, which barely fits in the backseat of the car. Its magnificents is too much for my little car to contain I suppose ;-)

 Had to get to the Academy site at opening time to get it and the playroom set up. Which took sometime, then trolled in. Though the castle displayed nicely and such, was able to get it back to my front bedroom all by myself at home though, its easier with two people.

A&S Display at Aethelmearc Academy

Managed to get dressed and wondering why my waist is being trudgy in this weather, which is my summertime specialty. I managed to get in my gown and looked most amply put to place, which was  challenge with sweating so much. 

I started the day with my Elizabethan jewelry course attened by 8 lovely persons. The class is inspired by the Cheapside Hoard now displayed at the British Museum in London. Gave a full color handout showing detail of pieces from the archeological at 1015am. I also explainded looking for similar motifs in costume jewerly as in the pictures.  Explained the benefits of mixing matching, price points of replicas vs costume jewels. Shared my entire jewel collection to show my adaptions in late period jewelry. It was very warmly recepted and got lovely compliments about it all day.

Tudor Doll Castle at Aethelmearc Academy

I was so happy folks liked it and was suggested to do a make and take class to make a set of earrings and necklace. Which I am thinking of a English Hood class and the make and take for Fabric Fiber and Fighting for the fall. I will schedule playtime around those courses, depending on my decisions to teach.

 My afternoon course was well attended by 6 and lots of good questions. I had detailed images of the children at play painting done by Brugel. I want to find more on the political significance of  this painting to beef the content more. It just became an image search and discussion on the games shown really. Folks were kind about the class but I know I can do better.  Plan on changing a few things to get things a bit more interesting. Its a good topic and the pics were really good but needs more beef in the reasearch.

Abhainn Ciach Ghlais Shrine 

 



The food was superb as usual, the weather was warm the warcollege broke a new attendence record, you could tell how touched the organzers were with the turnout. I know the organizer of the Academy classes was happy with the wide range of courses for folks to try, which I was happy with the selection as well. Got to attend the heraldic fan class and the Henry VIII valentine course, both excellent! Was able to get handouts on the others I missed due to confict with my teaching, but its all good.  I wished there was A/C in the venue, it would have helped cut some of the humidity.

I was able to get time to shop, though I really didn't need to buy anything. Bought a book on English Royalty, a netted cault to add to an Elizabethan hat, some decorated pins and earrings. I saw my lovely needlecase full of needles, though I didnt need to get those. These items were to be sold and given to the Royalty for their travel expenses. So my $17 goes to a good cause, will show how the hat looks now in a future post. I plan on wearing it to FFF with my black Elizabethan with Erimine puff sleeves, should be epic.

Teal Tudor Gown

 



During court I was called up for thanks with my many efforts and escapades with the shire children in keeping them entertained.Their Royal Highnesses I know appreciate my efforts, wish I had something more organzied for the day but teaching consumed alot of my time. I did oversee some games and provided the playroom, didn't get used but was still there. Though folks told me the effort and space was thought out and that makes a difference. It is very nice to be appreciated {-D

I have a few pictures from AEcademy these were taken by Lady Livia Valenti, thank you for these.
The last one is an Lewisburg Arts but this is typical me, Tudor rose purse and all. This the wonderful Teal Tudor gown. Will be making another unique compliation soon. I thought you would find picture amusing. Speaking of the Tudor Rose purse, I have gotten more complinents over my creative use of craft felt, than any single piece of garb created. On that note time to get back to sewing I am currently in the midst of garb creation, pics forth coming.

Regards

Lady Mairin

English Tudor Gowns

Wanted to show some Tudor Renaissance Portraits that inspire me, they may not being exactly the time and coutry my SCA persona is located, this was her adopted home. Though I love well tailored gowns, hats and hairstyles of the 1540-1550 English. I wanted to share these jewels of clothing mastery with my readers.

 

French Renaissance Portraits

Wanted to show some French Renaissance Portraits that inspire me, they may not being exactly the time and coutry my SCA persona is located. Though I love well tailored gowns, hats and hairstyles of the 1550 French. I wanted to share these jewels of clothing, jewelry, and hairstyle mastery with my readers.