German Saxony Gowns

Wanted to show some German Saxony Renaissance Portraits that inspire me, they may not being exactly the time and coutry my SCA persona is located, this was her adopted home. Though I love well tailored gowns, hats and hairstyles of the 1540-1550 German. I wanted to share these jewels of clothing mastery with my readers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lady Mairin O'Cadhla Persona Background

           Over my 8 years in the SCA, I been working on the details of my persona. Wasn't sure in the beginning what I wanted to be, other than Irish in the 16th Century. When I started I also wanted a derivitive of my legal name, I like it so much I didn't mind having a version of it for the SCA.  I find that some of the research is good to show why I do certain things for my persona. After years of reasearching Ireland when Mairin was living there from 1509 to 1530. I discovered details about the invasion of Ireland by HenryVII and knew this was away to get my persona to England. So here is the story of Mairn and her family:

            Born 1509 the border of what is now Claire and Limerick counties, Ireland. Mairin O'Cadhla is an Irish shepardess aged 21 years. Coming from a large family of Irish Shepards, she knows how to dye, wash, spin, and knit wool to make clothing and thread. Mairin was taken from all she knew, during the invasion of Ireland by the English in 1530.

 Separated from her family and thought dead from the war, Mairin was captured and kept to be sold as a servant woman. Mairin was relocated in a large ship along with many strangers with odd accents and language going back to England. She was acquired and placed in the noble household De Vere’s of Warwickshire, who were prominent in the Tudor court.

 Over time as she worked in the household, Mairin showed her skills with wool in all its forms. Growing the favor of the lady of the house, Mairin was rewarded for her patience, diligence and knowledge, which was profitable for the household. Lady De Vere was pleased, and handpicked Mairin to be taught the skills to be a lady's maid. She eventually lost some of her Irish accent as she became accustomed to her new noble home.

 In exchange for her confidences, Mairin accompanied Lady De Vere to court on several occasions for many years. While attending her lady at court, Mairin learned many fine pursuits. She was expected to be mannerly, gain knowledge, and be devout just like many a fine woman. Mairin learned: prayer and devotion to the word of God, courtly dances, embroidery, sewing, playing the lute, care of fine clothing, care of fine jeweled accessories, keeping the company of children at court and keeping cheerful company to her lady and household.

She eventually wed to fine gentleman similar to her station, to a wonderful household master of horse Lord Justin du Plott. The couple had 6 children 3 of which made it to adulthood. Her husband passed in 1558 due to a bad bout with the pocks. Mairin passed in 1560 of illness due to old age, though it is said more to be of a lonliness for her husband. Their issue Mistress Marie Patrica du Plott,  Master Thomas Larue du Plott and Master Michael Joshua du Plott.

Her eldest daughter Marie Patricia grew up in the De Vere household and also followed in the footsteps of her mother plying her knowledges to gain postion. Spending time under her mothers tutilidge as a young girl. Eventually she went to court with the household with a comission to work as a lady in waiting in the English court.  Gaining more at court Marie eventually wed to a minor noble son, a 4th son of an Duke.

Her son Thomas Larue took on the family trade with becoming a Master of Horse. To which he became known throughout as an excellent breeder of hunting horses. A hearty breed of English horse mixed with some distant lines of the stockier breeds of Irish native horses. He married similar to his station with the lute teacher from the De Vere household.

Her youngest son, Michael Joshua also stayed with the De Vere household, but chose to become a master gardner. He had apprenticed with another household of Lord Cecil and was renoun for creating complex designed knot gardens and certain varieties of fruit trees. After the apprenticeship he came back to work for the De Veres providing gardens to set off the grandness of the De Vere Manor. He also married similar to his station to a well known court lace maker and embroideress.

AE Academy

Well other than gushing over my Sycamore Scroll, I did alot for AE Academy. I put up my doll castle for display, which barely fits in the backseat of the car. Its magnificents is too much for my little car to contain I suppose ;-)

 Had to get to the Academy site at opening time to get it and the playroom set up. Which took sometime, then trolled in. Though the castle displayed nicely and such, was able to get it back to my front bedroom all by myself at home though, its easier with two people.

A&S Display at Aethelmearc Academy

Managed to get dressed and wondering why my waist is being trudgy in this weather, which is my summertime specialty. I managed to get in my gown and looked most amply put to place, which was  challenge with sweating so much. 

I started the day with my Elizabethan jewelry course attened by 8 lovely persons. The class is inspired by the Cheapside Hoard now displayed at the British Museum in London. Gave a full color handout showing detail of pieces from the archeological at 1015am. I also explainded looking for similar motifs in costume jewerly as in the pictures.  Explained the benefits of mixing matching, price points of replicas vs costume jewels. Shared my entire jewel collection to show my adaptions in late period jewelry. It was very warmly recepted and got lovely compliments about it all day.

Tudor Doll Castle at Aethelmearc Academy

I was so happy folks liked it and was suggested to do a make and take class to make a set of earrings and necklace. Which I am thinking of a English Hood class and the make and take for Fabric Fiber and Fighting for the fall. I will schedule playtime around those courses, depending on my decisions to teach.

 My afternoon course was well attended by 6 and lots of good questions. I had detailed images of the children at play painting done by Brugel. I want to find more on the political significance of  this painting to beef the content more. It just became an image search and discussion on the games shown really. Folks were kind about the class but I know I can do better.  Plan on changing a few things to get things a bit more interesting. Its a good topic and the pics were really good but needs more beef in the reasearch.

Abhainn Ciach Ghlais Shrine 

 



The food was superb as usual, the weather was warm the warcollege broke a new attendence record, you could tell how touched the organzers were with the turnout. I know the organizer of the Academy classes was happy with the wide range of courses for folks to try, which I was happy with the selection as well. Got to attend the heraldic fan class and the Henry VIII valentine course, both excellent! Was able to get handouts on the others I missed due to confict with my teaching, but its all good.  I wished there was A/C in the venue, it would have helped cut some of the humidity.

I was able to get time to shop, though I really didn't need to buy anything. Bought a book on English Royalty, a netted cault to add to an Elizabethan hat, some decorated pins and earrings. I saw my lovely needlecase full of needles, though I didnt need to get those. These items were to be sold and given to the Royalty for their travel expenses. So my $17 goes to a good cause, will show how the hat looks now in a future post. I plan on wearing it to FFF with my black Elizabethan with Erimine puff sleeves, should be epic.

Teal Tudor Gown

 



During court I was called up for thanks with my many efforts and escapades with the shire children in keeping them entertained.Their Royal Highnesses I know appreciate my efforts, wish I had something more organzied for the day but teaching consumed alot of my time. I did oversee some games and provided the playroom, didn't get used but was still there. Though folks told me the effort and space was thought out and that makes a difference. It is very nice to be appreciated {-D

I have a few pictures from AEcademy these were taken by Lady Livia Valenti, thank you for these.
The last one is an Lewisburg Arts but this is typical me, Tudor rose purse and all. This the wonderful Teal Tudor gown. Will be making another unique compliation soon. I thought you would find picture amusing. Speaking of the Tudor Rose purse, I have gotten more complinents over my creative use of craft felt, than any single piece of garb created. On that note time to get back to sewing I am currently in the midst of garb creation, pics forth coming.

Regards

Lady Mairin

Order of the Sycamore Scroll...Worth the Wait

     Well this is "the scroll", recieved via messenger at AE Academy. What a scroll it is too! I was expecting a lovely scroll but nothing as the masterpiece I recieved. I am crafting my words carefully for this email of appreciation for such wonderous work.
     All credit goes to THL Iohannes Weiswald for such masterful art and wordcraft.  It just so fits the 10"x 13" frame I purchased though I like my scrolls to take up a large amount of space in the frame, not a huge fan of matting want the scroll to speak for itself.

     I took a few pics to show what it looks like on my wall displayed with my Order of the Sycamore medallion. Which they really look like they go together, I chose not to wear my medallion this weekend to keep it clean since it was very hot weather but will at future events.          I love the blocked style of letters and this form of calligraphy is really beautiul close up, some of the other pictures show off the niuances that this british style creates. Also the picture is very personalized a depiction of me recieveing my order medallion.                        

As seen on the picture to the left, I am in the middle with a doll in my left hand an child in my right amusing him. Am wearing what looks to be a gold tudor like gown with red trim, its the right shape and  a english headress. My red hair and glasses are seen in this too, he captured my likeness for certain. His Majesty Maynard on my right it hand on my shoulder and Her Majesty Liadain holding a Sycamore medallion in her hands standing on my left. To complete the scene with a mannerly dog and cat at the bottom.

All the floral illumination work on the edges does remind me of English crewel embroidery and the large blocked M in the top left is just magnificent. I guess in closing, its just so much more than I expected.

Very Humbled,

Lady Mairin

English Tudor Gowns

Wanted to show some Tudor Renaissance Portraits that inspire me, they may not being exactly the time and coutry my SCA persona is located, this was her adopted home. Though I love well tailored gowns, hats and hairstyles of the 1540-1550 English. I wanted to share these jewels of clothing mastery with my readers.

 

Medallion Medley

Well here is a story for you:

 I had showed my Order of the Sycamore medallion to my shiremates at War Practice. All of us agreed, that I should give it more pizzaz to go with my late period gowns and accessories. I had worked out a design on the way home in my mind. I wrapped the copper loop in white ribbon and sewed flat gold beads around the outside to give shine and texture. I then used UV protected nail polish and built up layers of clear polish on the center brass leaves design, added black lines with ball point pen, and layered more clear polish over top to secure the ink. Then colored red side of the medallion, and redrew some lines that were faded with the additional color. I added one last layer of clear all over the leaves. Its not the most period method but I didn't want to changed much from the orginal given.

The necklace is one I have had made from beads given as Arts and Sciences favors when I started in the SCA, Oh some 8 years back, I keep all tokens just in case. I also made a neat pair of earrings from two matching tokens. On this projects I added the bread caps and filligree for that fancier late period touch.

I hope to get my Sycamore scroll at my next Aethelmearc Kingdom event, which will be AE Academy at the end of June. I am excited, been wondering how it will look and what the exact wording would be and who was the person that has made it. In the mean time, I will work with others in the scribal community to check if it will make it to me. I believe it is a finished project, since Their Majesties mentioned it was no able to make it to War Practice and not a work progress and such.

So after working on the medallion for two days, I wanted to show my results. With the layers of polish and pen, I added the heraldic colors of the Order of the Sycamore on the medallion itself. I found out most folks use a polymer enamel modernly that is easier to work with compared to the traditional glass methods. Nail polish is not that far off from what they use commerically, in period they would use glass powder, a hot kiln and many hours of work on metal in many shaped pieces to adhere the enamel to and make links to make chains in various lengths. I hope to use my medallion as a way in my Jewelry class to show how one can take something simple and make a late period piece come out of simple materials found at home.

Well back to more mundane activites,

Lady Mairin

AEthelmearc Academy Teaching Classes

I am teaching two classes for AEthelmearc Academy, one is Introduction to Elizabethan Jewelry (2 hr class) and the other is an Introduction to Bruegel Children's Games( 1hr Class). I was able to complete the handouts for both classes. Thought I post a pics of the pretty horde jewels from cheapside in anticipation, I hope to get folks in my courses.  Now to wait for June to come.

 In the mean time almost done with the Swedish custom order the beading is done. Working the last panel of the corset and will be all ready to ship. I hope I can get the straps worked out in the mean time. Selling gowns on Ebay and hoping that they go, really running out of room when making the new ones in progress.

My two good shire mates won crown tournament, now to help and prepare for the impending reign, its going to be and adventure for our little shire. Though this being full of firsts for us we are nervous but I am sure we can all pull it off.

Having more articles put on the shire website, so putting my knowledge out there. Very cool was even neater having one of my articles in the Aestel( Kingdom Newsletter) Always an honor of course.

I am going to War Practice next weekend, very excited to display my items from Ice Dragon. Thrilled to see Ilish Ducan and girls.  Also looking at being at coopers lake is always nice to go "home", will take some classes and hang out. Wish that I could stay longer but finances are not agreeing, selling the gowns would change that, but that is just the way it all works out.

In the mean time lots of prep and packing, got lots to wear but unsure of which ones to pick. Now that is a predicament I don't mind having.  Well got lots more to do before next weekend

Be Blessed,

Mairin

William Penn Said It Best

"No pain, no palm; no thorns, no throne; no gall, no glory; no cross, no crown"- William Penn.

 On that note, I promised to post photos of my enteries once they were in the Novice Pentathalon.  Also mentioned their standing as they did in the Novice category.  I had two enteries that were cross entered into other categories with the appropriate information for the category.

 The Elizbethan Embroidered Gloves were entered in Needlework and Heraldic Display and won both categories. Very pleased these are finished, they were a sampler of sorts for me. I learned so many stitches while working on these that I was afraid the uniformity that is needed in a pair would be over shadowed from one glove to the next. So that was something I had to focus on while making the second glove and trying to keep them to match in stitch technique.Though I think they turned out really nice and they too garnered lots of compliments. I can't wait to accessories them with my Elizabethan gowns, they are just the neatest thing to brighten up the more somber colored Elizabethan gowns in my wardrobe.

 The String Marionettes were entered in Toys and won their category. I garned alot of complements on these. Childrens toys are a subject that takes alot of time to research. There are lots of out of period sources for later string marionette sources but I was looking for the medieval version and beginnging to their orgins to their secular use as a form of entertainement. The research is something I started in 2006 soon after I started in the SCA. These were the cullmination of many years of reasearch.

 The Tablet Woven belt was entered in Fiber Arts and Accessories and placed well amongst the other Novice enteries. This is my first tablet woven project, I recieved alot of very awesome comments on the handmade loom versus a commerically made loom. Which I didn't even think about it, but the looms we made would have been a very period act to make and then weave. So accidentally I did a period method. Which the handmade looms were much cheaper than the inkle looms I had previously thought of purchasing. Also got lots of compliments on my even and fairly distributed weft and warp, which Lady Aibell helped me get started on this so much, I can't thank her enough for getting me started on this weaving. Its a craft I have wanted to learn for a long time and now can make my own woven items to help accessorize my gowns and other accessories. I got to finish what is on my loom yet, though its going to look super nice when done. Been fun to experimnent with technique.

My Score was over 211 points which if placed with the Single Enterants I would have gotten Fourth place, still that is very good. I do have more to learn to get my documentation more finely tuned, though I am very happy with my Novice Pent win. Was totally in shock and didn't know how well I had done till Baronial Court to recieve my awards. I also recieved Baroness's Choice, which was also a total shock, what a wonderful story her Excellency told me about making her choice. I felt very humbled and honored she picked my Marionette Entry.  Thankfully I was in a great gown to go up in court too, in my full spring green Elizabethan floral embroidered gown with whisk collar and ruffs and nice long train, looked very period according my my good friend Lady Jaqueline. Looking period was my goal without looking garrish in the volumous dress and period hair. Both scrolls are framed, the Pent Scroll is in a shadow box with my three dragon medallions that denote my three category victories, thought they needed a place of honor next to the scroll, it is not glued in so it can be removed if needed. Got close up pictures so they can be read, click on them and they will appear bigger if needed.

 Also collected for fellow shire members who left the site for a party, so I was able to deliever good news when I got back to the hotel where we were staying. Its good to be a bearer of good news, it was a great day for our shire. We had a member become part of the Order of the Chivalry, a beautiful ceremony and it was witness by many but felt very intimate. We are so proud of our shire knight, Sir Havoc the Wild, Vivats!!! Thank you to Lady Antoinette de Lorraine for the pictures of my enteries and Lady Jacqueline of my court picture.

I also mentioned shopping in my previous spost, I will get pics of the neat things I bought. A few from folks I found out I know through Etsy, very cool to see their lovely items in person I must say. Will post more pics later on these awesome finds but for now its time to go back to the mundane.
Scadian Dreaming,
Mairin

New Fabrics More Inspiration

Well I did tell you all about the fabric that I newly acquired and wanted to show you some swatches. I found two fabrics both being curtains of course. I have been told that I put Scarlet O'Hara to shame with the garb clothing I make out of curtains, which I reply a humble thank you. All of my Tudor Gowns are made from Curtain Panels, save one my Red Velvet Tudor Gown is made from regular fabric.  I have to say its grand not needing to do much lining or hemming, as long as one plans placement of pattern pieces well. Which all of these luxorius fabrics will be made into Renaissance styles gowns some point in the future.  I still have lots to make when it comes to getting gowns ready and actually working off my stash.

Right now I have acquired a green faux silk unlined curtain panels, they look more olive in the picture, but are a shade between a sage and olive. Also found some floral panels from Bed Bath and Beyond that will be great for an Elizabethan gown, may use these for a replica coronation gown. Not sure right now but they are very pretty with a gold background and red flower and green stems and leaves.

These are the major ones I recently recieved, though I still have 3 yards of the floral Crewel fabric yet to find a use for, thinking a loose gown with the blue faux silk trimming. Would be really pretty and a good use of what is left of both fabrics. Plus I have lots of trim to still use for my garments.

Well I am compiling my list and getting groups of things ready, I am going to need more hangers  for my garb closet.

Ta ta for now,

Maureen

Vintage SCA Gallery In No Particular Order




Mairins attempt at German 1530's Lewisburg Arts 2009

 


Close up 1530's German Gown Mairin Cira 2009

 

Deputy Chancellor Minor Mairin at Wills Revenge 2006





Wish the Tent stake was in the way Lewisburg Arts 2012

Maureen being introduced to the SCA through the Lewisburg Arts Demo 2005



Chancellor Minor Mairin Circa 2010







Greetings From Mairin at 12th Night 2010











    

Feasting Mairin at 12th Night 2010



Spinning Wool Mairin Beaver Springs Demo 2006

 







Goldwork, Embroidery and Elizabethans

Well I have made a major amount of progress over the past few days with the Elizabethan/ Jacobean Embroidered Jacket.  Which is thrilling to see the project just take shape before me. I have the collar and shoulder tabs completed including lining, I also have the all the embroidery on all the gores done, I will have to line jacket from the natural waist down to the bottom edge but have fabric set aside for that when it is assembled.

The goldwork to set on the on the other half of a front panel, that's it as far as goldwork on this project. I expect with time I have, the goldwork will be done today. The Elizabethan flowers will be a chore, though i think they will be fun to do but time consuming. So yes getting all the floral work done will be easier said then done. The back panel and sleeves are ready for embroidery. I will have to take photos of all my progress, so far.


After the large majority of flowers done on all pattern pieces, it will be time to assemble the garment, then line it with linen and half satin on some edges, set the lace trim on all edges and pearl in shell accents and other finishing touches.

 I am really pleased with all my progress, though with my choice for design mainly the peacock it looks very eastern inspired, which is not what I wanted to do but I am hoping that the flowers, fruit, and insects will make it look more english and garden like, so I am considering my choices very carefully. Here is to lots of luck with this project, I will need it. Wonder if I can get this done for renaissance faire later this month, that may be too ambitious. Though it would be fun

Regards,

Maureen

Introductions

Well this would be my first official blog, new journeys are always interesting and I believe this will be just that. My name is Maureen Benfer and I am a history enthusiast. I have been interested in history, languages, arts, and sciences since childhood. As you will find out, I am a very creative person and find different ways to express it through my hobby.

I actively participate in the Society of Creative Anachronism(SCA) since 2005. It is a non profit organization that recreates the arts, crafts, sciences and other means of living in pre-17th century Europe. I prefer to research and recreate the Tudor era in England which falls from 1497 to 1603, basically the time period from King Henry VII to Elizabeth I. I like the 1530's in this span of history particularly. In the SCA I am referred to as Mairin O' Cadhla, the name I chose is attributed and dedicated to my real Irish roots.

I am making a thorough diary of my garb and other crafts within my hobby for educational and organizational benefits. It was best to collect them all in one location for easier access, and so here we go. From time to time you will see old and new items added and journaled here, I hope you enjoy reading and viewing my little creative journey into history.

Blessings,

Maureen or Mairin
(whichever you know me by)